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I have to replace the seat retainer plates, the rear ones no issue, they are exposed underneath, but what about the fronts, does that under floor reinforcement come of and back on with out issues, or a different type repair for this? Chip

DUB

Good photos of the underside and the interior are would be a great help.

DUB

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Dub, of the six front mounts two bolts broke, One I cut, and three the bolts came out but the rivets broke leaving the nut plates in the void under floor and above the reinforcement under the car. Thanks Chip

inside rear seat mount holes to nut plates





inside front seat mount holes to hidden nut plates





front underside, nut plates are between floor and that fiber glass reinforcement





rear underside nut plates exposed, easily replaced with nut plates and aluminum rivits

DUB

Thanks for the photo's.

It all depends on how you want it to look when completed. Seeing how the car has not been cut on in this area....It will depend on if you can get to the areas where GM used the solid aluminum rivets to hold the channel to the floor board . I know they glued/bonded it also...but those rivets I can see in the third photo (left side of photo) have me concerned. The rest of the channel is pout of view so i can not tell how or where it ends.

This channel can be cut and repaired...but it will end up looking like it. So it depends on what you are wanting.

DUB

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Dub here is the story, I soaked these bolts every day for a week, or two, the idea was any that broke or had to be cut because of access would be drilled and tapped or heli-coiled, what I never saw coming was the bolts that came all the way out all ended with a thunk as the plate dropped into the void, rivets sheered. So I don't want to cut that channel, My main question is, if its removable and replaceable and leave no trace, "EASILY". Maby easily is not the right word but I think you know what I mean. My second choice would be to drill round holes top side next to where the plates go and slide them in and blind rivet them and put plastic drain hole plugs in where I drilled, all would be covered by carpet and no trace under the car. I am way open to better ideas. Thanks Chip

DUB

'EASILY'....NO Using heat to soften the bonding adhesive the brace will come off...but it depends if you can get to and replace the rivets GM used to also hold it in place....so you can replace the plate. in between it and the floor pan.

DUB

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OK now I know what you mean, so at the curve with the rockers it has phillipps screws, no problem, but I have to check all the rivets for access to pound and buck, I'll look close at that tomorrow, Thanks Dub!! Chip

DUB

Hopefully all rivets are accessible from the inside ...so they can be drilled out and replaced.

If they can come out without a lot of 'drama'...ten getting the beam off is nothing but some time with a good heat gun and some putty knives to get it to release.

DUB

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I think now that the rivets to the left you were talking about are not rivets but they are screws, and I have two bodies the same I believe it's factory, but they may break of at the heads and I will be screwed, all the aluminum rivets are accessible. So the screws are the issue. I can give better pics tomorrow. Thanks Dub, Chip

DUB

YEP....those screws will either come out or cause a problem...OBVIOUSLY! 2 screws like that can take me hours to get out....and many people can not grasp the fact that that actually can happen. Especially if 'butchering' the car is not an option.

DUB

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Yeah, the screws for the door sill plates, that are about a #6 or #8 screw were as thick as a straight pin right below the head. I'll let you know what I decide and how it works out, and thanks for your help and insight. Chip

DUB

DANG-IT!!! I hope it goes well.

DUB

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Update! Have been working on other things instead of this issue, because I could not get happy with how to proceed since the last thing I want is project creep or to create more damage, and I have lots to keep me busy. I will stick with the plan to extract, drill and rethread, or heli coil the broken or cut bolts. Now for the plates that the bolt came out of then dropped because the rivets broke, I will fish them into place with a magnet and pop rivet them back into place. When the time comes to re-do the body I will replace the rivets with proper ones, just because. Chip Ps THOUGHTS??????????????

DUB

My thoughts??

You are asking the wrong person. because if I can heat up the fiberglass channel and release it from the body so the nut plates can be installed where the bolts broke off....that is what I would do.

You have to look at it like how I have to look at it. Me spending 2 hours thinking about 'how I can do it differently'...is still time out of my day. SO when I KNOW what I have tot do.....I do it. Which is now why it may make sense in why I responded..."You are asking the wrong person". I put time into repairs that HOPEFULLY I do not have to do over again. Revisiting a repair due to not being performed the best way possible the fist time...for me is a total waste of that time I spent initially. I know 'stuff happens'...but I also know if I do a repair to the level of 6. (1 to 10 scale)..and then it comes back to be taken up to level 10....why did I waste my time on doing it to a 6.

DUB