Neutralizing Sodium bicarbonate? (Soda blasting)
#21
Race Director
Some areas will strip fairly easy...I hope. While he is blasting...and gets into pocket areas where the air can circulate differently....this causes the media to not get to where you want it so easily (unlike on a flat surface with no obstructions)....so if the person 'sits' there holding the wand and trying to get this paint out....the vortex of air can actually eat into the surrounding fiberglass and divot it out.
it is a balancing act on air pressure and distance from the panel.
DUB
#22
Instructor
Thread Starter
[QUOTE=DUB;1589502357]Not meaning to be a 'smart @ss'. I am concerned with all areas. Any damage to the fiberglass equates to MORE time in repairs.
Thanks Dub, comprende.....
Thanks Dub, comprende.....
#23
Racer
I have a question regarding "chemical stripping"
Last time that I checked the label of one of these strippers, it contained caustic soda (Sodium Hydroxide), Acetone and Toluene. Are any of these harmful to the Polyester Resin in Fiberglass? Are there strippers that are not so hazardous/aggressive?
Thanks!
Yogi
Last time that I checked the label of one of these strippers, it contained caustic soda (Sodium Hydroxide), Acetone and Toluene. Are any of these harmful to the Polyester Resin in Fiberglass? Are there strippers that are not so hazardous/aggressive?
Thanks!
Yogi
#24
Instructor
Thread Starter
Not meaning to be a 'smart @ss'. I am concerned with all areas. Any damage to the fiberglass equates to MORE time in repairs.
Some areas will strip fairly easy...I hope. While he is blasting...and gets into pocket areas where the air can circulate differently....this causes the media to not get to where you want it so easily (unlike on a flat surface with no obstructions)....so if the person 'sits' there holding the wand and trying to get this paint out....the vortex of air can actually eat into the surrounding fiberglass and divot it out.
it is a balancing act on air pressure and distance from the panel.
DUB
Some areas will strip fairly easy...I hope. While he is blasting...and gets into pocket areas where the air can circulate differently....this causes the media to not get to where you want it so easily (unlike on a flat surface with no obstructions)....so if the person 'sits' there holding the wand and trying to get this paint out....the vortex of air can actually eat into the surrounding fiberglass and divot it out.
it is a balancing act on air pressure and distance from the panel.
DUB
http://www.autobodytoolmart.com/klea...4-p-14857.aspx
Also sent you a PM about panel/front end replacement recommendations/options... I think the front end is a complete mess, and wanted your advice on a few things. Thanks a ton, Ed
#25
Race Director
I have a question regarding "chemical stripping"
Last time that I checked the label of one of these strippers, it contained caustic soda (Sodium Hydroxide), Acetone and Toluene. Are any of these harmful to the Polyester Resin in Fiberglass? Are there strippers that are not so hazardous/aggressive?
Thanks!
Yogi
Last time that I checked the label of one of these strippers, it contained caustic soda (Sodium Hydroxide), Acetone and Toluene. Are any of these harmful to the Polyester Resin in Fiberglass? Are there strippers that are not so hazardous/aggressive?
Thanks!
Yogi
I use the chemical stripper that 'they' say can not be used on fiberglass....but then again...I have a CLUE and know what I am doing and know what to look for.
Some chemical strippers have been weakened in strength so that are not as aggressive....but take several application to get paint off.
As I have written numerous times... Do a TEST area and see what it takes to get your paint stripped off.....BEFORE you jump in and do the car.
Just a few I can think of and I typed them not in any particular order in regards which one is BEST. Captain Lee's, Citrus Strip, Klean-Strip stripper for fiberglass....possibly many more. The one I use is not listed.
DUB
#26
Race Director
This is the stripper I use. it IS STOUT....but I have used it for years and know all about it and what it can do.
If you feel more comfortable with the other that you posted....you can use it. But before you begin...I would prefer you call me....I have tricks and things to look for and test before you go 'hog wild' on it.
http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/ai...-paint-remover
DUB
If you feel more comfortable with the other that you posted....you can use it. But before you begin...I would prefer you call me....I have tricks and things to look for and test before you go 'hog wild' on it.
http://www.kleanstrip.com/product/ai...-paint-remover
DUB
#27
Burning Brakes
OK, I have read about never using soda blasting and that a shop will not go near a car that has been soda blasted. Well it is too late for that in my case. My car has already been soda blasted and I am getting near to the time to start the painting process. What do you folks recommend for trying to get it clean? Cutting the car up for scrap is obviously not an option.
Thanks,
Doc
Thanks,
Doc
#28
Instructor
Thread Starter
OK, I have read about never using soda blasting and that a shop will not go near a car that has been soda blasted. Well it is too late for that in my case. My car has already been soda blasted and I am getting near to the time to start the painting process. What do you folks recommend for trying to get it clean? Cutting the car up for scrap is obviously not an option.
Thanks,
Doc
Thanks,
Doc
Thanks! Found a great article on this from Super Chevy... Describes the benefits and pitfalls/dangers.... With regard to residue, the article calls out a product called "holdtight 102".... interesting.....
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/vem...soda-blasting/
Check out the article....
Hope this helps! Actually found that you could buy it on ebay as well...
Best of luck, Ed
#29
Race Director
OK, I have read about never using soda blasting and that a shop will not go near a car that has been soda blasted. Well it is too late for that in my case. My car has already been soda blasted and I am getting near to the time to start the painting process. What do you folks recommend for trying to get it clean? Cutting the car up for scrap is obviously not an option.
Thanks,
Doc
Thanks,
Doc
Not knowing for certain what year you have...I can only assume that from you Public Profile...it is a 1965.
Whatever you decide to do...if you sue water. You will want to make sure that it has a bit of time to dry out VERY WELL before you go any do any bodywork and filling.....so you do not trap moisture.
And..if the underside of the hood was also soda blasted...and you wash it off...I can say that the water and moisture that gets trapped in the under structure can possibly show up later on by causing small bubbles to come up from under the paint in the area of where the under structure is. I KNOW that there is a drain hole....but this cavity can not breathe. Which is why I hate it when people wash the underside of there hood and allow water to get into this cavity....especially on Corvettes that have NO drain hole.
I can not agree or disagree with the product posted in the above post. Dealing with a steel car is completely different than that of a fiberglass car. The properties of steel and the porosity of the fiberglass is the major difference. All I can say is do your best in what ever you choose...and if you think you cleaned it well...do it again...and again....and again. Why do it many times......simply because the time you spend getting it clean numerous times....IS NOTHING compared to the time in re-doing the car entirely again...and WISHING that you had taken the time to clean if a half dozen times....just to be safe. PARANOID....YES. WHY and I like this.....BECAUSE I have been bitten by problems in the past due to NOT taking the time....when I had the chance.
DUB
#30
Burning Brakes
Thanks for the advice. I will do my best to clean everything and let it dry thoroughly. If I had it do over again, I would obviously choose a different method for paint removal.
Doc
Doc
#31
Drifting
SPI makes a good water base cleaner. the problem is the residue. first i would rinse with a hose so not to drive it into the pores . once rinsed good i would clean it several times with the cleaner. like dub says you have to let it dry good. low humidity helps .
that being said i still would run backwards from it. it's just a crap shoot on success .
and forget the holdtite stuff. another product i wont work over.
that being said i still would run backwards from it. it's just a crap shoot on success .
and forget the holdtite stuff. another product i wont work over.