Tips and warnings for stripping C3 interior
05-06-2015, 12:00 AM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Tips and warnings for stripping C3 interior
Greetings. This is for my SMC '77 frame-off restoration. I want to get the interior's steel and fiberglass spanking clean before I shoot them with SPI epoxy primer.
I started to strip the steel floor boards using a heat gun and scraper:
I scraped off the excess of some kind of beige panel adhesive using the heat gun. I'm hoping that's fine.
I suppose I will have to apply fresh seam sealer wherever I took off that old beige gummy compound. What kind of product would you recommend?
Once everything is super clean, do you apply the new seam sealer first and then spray the epoxy on top, or vice-versa?
Is it OK to use the heat gun & scraper to remove some of the carpet glue on the fiberglass? Can you damage the fiberglass with the heat gun? So far I had it set at 380 degrees C (720 F).
I suppose it's OK to use paint stripper on the birdcage? And paint stripper to remove any paint on the interior fiberglass?
Once most of the old material is off, do you use a soft wire wheel to get the rest off the steel? For the fiberglass, Scotch-Brite pads and acetone?
I know, lots of questions...and I'm sure I'll have plenty more for you.
Any tips and warnings are welcome. Thanks all!
I started to strip the steel floor boards using a heat gun and scraper:
I scraped off the excess of some kind of beige panel adhesive using the heat gun. I'm hoping that's fine.
I suppose I will have to apply fresh seam sealer wherever I took off that old beige gummy compound. What kind of product would you recommend?
Once everything is super clean, do you apply the new seam sealer first and then spray the epoxy on top, or vice-versa?
Is it OK to use the heat gun & scraper to remove some of the carpet glue on the fiberglass? Can you damage the fiberglass with the heat gun? So far I had it set at 380 degrees C (720 F).
I suppose it's OK to use paint stripper on the birdcage? And paint stripper to remove any paint on the interior fiberglass?
Once most of the old material is off, do you use a soft wire wheel to get the rest off the steel? For the fiberglass, Scotch-Brite pads and acetone?
I know, lots of questions...and I'm sure I'll have plenty more for you.
Any tips and warnings are welcome. Thanks all!
Last edited by RBrid; 05-06-2015 at 10:56 AM. Reason: More precise wording
05-06-2015, 05:47 PM
#2
Race Director
OK....You asked for 'TIPS and WARNINGS"
First tip....Before you start to jump into stripping something...you need to POST your idea or plans FIRST.....instead of getting started and then asking if this is OK or not OK.
TIP: When using a heat gun.....OBVIOUSLY you can damage fiberglass. SO...that is when you carefully TEST an area to see how how you NEED to get it....INSTEAD of blasting it high heat and wonder why 'things' are now falling apart. EITHER having a good sense of feel for hot the panel is or getting an Infra Red Thermometer that will tell you how hot you are getting it
TIP: I do not heat gun off glue...I soak it or 'wet it out' in lacquer thinner SEVERAL TIMES in a VERY WELL VENTILATED AREA WITH NO HEAT SOURCES OR SPARKS!!!!! And it will often the glue and basically roll off the panel with a towel. The obvious....also having a fire extinguisher near by also.
ALL of the caulking that you peeled out SHOULD be re-applied AFTER you prime it....JUST LIKE you mentioned. I use SEM BEIGE SEAM SEALER. It is catalyzed...so you can not 'dilly-dally' around.
AS for completely stripping the interior...TO EACH HIS/HER OWN. BUT...for what it is worth....and is what is also know by many people is that the BEST primer in the world is good paint. SO...there would be NO WAY that I would strip every speck of paint off of the interior surfaces and this includes the 'birdcage'. It is the interior and is eventually going to be covered all up with something. IF I see rust or problems I would address them...but if the rest of the interior is in really good condition....I would clean and prep it well so I could apply a product on top of it to cover it. If a customer demanded me to get the interior COMPLETELY STRIPPED....they would end up in the hospital with some cardiac problem when I handed them the bill.
SO....using automotive grade lacquer thinner and a RED Scotch-brite pad and aid in getting the blue paint off of the SMC panels. But honestly....if the birdcage is still looking good but is blue....and the blue paint is STUCK ON really good.....and you do not see rust...I would not strip it.
YES...if you want to chemically strip it because your heart is SET on this....YOU MUST be careful if the stripper gets into any seam and you can not get it ALL out. If you can not get it out and neutralized...you are actually doing more harm than good. Use ALL appropriate protective gear and follow all safety instructions and dispose of sued stripped CORRECTLY.
DUB
First tip....Before you start to jump into stripping something...you need to POST your idea or plans FIRST.....instead of getting started and then asking if this is OK or not OK.
TIP: When using a heat gun.....OBVIOUSLY you can damage fiberglass. SO...that is when you carefully TEST an area to see how how you NEED to get it....INSTEAD of blasting it high heat and wonder why 'things' are now falling apart. EITHER having a good sense of feel for hot the panel is or getting an Infra Red Thermometer that will tell you how hot you are getting it
TIP: I do not heat gun off glue...I soak it or 'wet it out' in lacquer thinner SEVERAL TIMES in a VERY WELL VENTILATED AREA WITH NO HEAT SOURCES OR SPARKS!!!!! And it will often the glue and basically roll off the panel with a towel. The obvious....also having a fire extinguisher near by also.
ALL of the caulking that you peeled out SHOULD be re-applied AFTER you prime it....JUST LIKE you mentioned. I use SEM BEIGE SEAM SEALER. It is catalyzed...so you can not 'dilly-dally' around.
AS for completely stripping the interior...TO EACH HIS/HER OWN. BUT...for what it is worth....and is what is also know by many people is that the BEST primer in the world is good paint. SO...there would be NO WAY that I would strip every speck of paint off of the interior surfaces and this includes the 'birdcage'. It is the interior and is eventually going to be covered all up with something. IF I see rust or problems I would address them...but if the rest of the interior is in really good condition....I would clean and prep it well so I could apply a product on top of it to cover it. If a customer demanded me to get the interior COMPLETELY STRIPPED....they would end up in the hospital with some cardiac problem when I handed them the bill.
SO....using automotive grade lacquer thinner and a RED Scotch-brite pad and aid in getting the blue paint off of the SMC panels. But honestly....if the birdcage is still looking good but is blue....and the blue paint is STUCK ON really good.....and you do not see rust...I would not strip it.
YES...if you want to chemically strip it because your heart is SET on this....YOU MUST be careful if the stripper gets into any seam and you can not get it ALL out. If you can not get it out and neutralized...you are actually doing more harm than good. Use ALL appropriate protective gear and follow all safety instructions and dispose of sued stripped CORRECTLY.
DUB
05-07-2015, 03:08 AM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
OK....You asked for 'TIPS and WARNINGS"
I was hoping you'd chime in DUB - you are a voice of reason.
First tip....Before you start to jump into stripping something...you need to POST your idea or plans FIRST.....instead of getting started and then asking if this is OK or not OK.
Dang. I saw this coming from you DUB. I swear I saw it coming. OK - no more shooting before aiming.
TIP: When using a heat gun.....OBVIOUSLY you can damage fiberglass. SO...that is when you carefully TEST an area to see how how you NEED to get it....INSTEAD of blasting it high heat and wonder why 'things' are now falling apart. EITHER having a good sense of feel for hot the panel is or getting an Infra Red Thermometer that will tell you how hot you are getting it
Sounds good. So far I have focused on stripping steel parts. If you know a temperature not to exceed for the fiberglass, please let us know.
TIP: I do not heat gun off glue...I soak it or 'wet it out' in lacquer thinner SEVERAL TIMES in a VERY WELL VENTILATED AREA WITH NO HEAT SOURCES OR SPARKS!!!!! And it will often the glue and basically roll off the panel with a towel. The obvious....also having a fire extinguisher near by also.
Good tip. I will try that method for the glue on the fiberglass. So far I have used the heat gun to remove most of the glue from the vertical steel panels behind the seats.
ALL of the caulking that you peeled out SHOULD be re-applied AFTER you prime it....JUST LIKE you mentioned.
Roger that. Epoxy primer first, seam sealer second. Thanks.
I use SEM BEIGE SEAM SEALER. It is catalyzed...so you can not 'dilly-dally' around.
Awesome. That's really good to know.
AS for completely stripping the interior...TO EACH HIS/HER OWN. BUT...for what it is worth....and is what is also know by many people is that the BEST primer in the world is good paint. SO...there would be NO WAY that I would strip every speck of paint off of the interior surfaces and this includes the 'birdcage'. It is the interior and is eventually going to be covered all up with something. IF I see rust or problems I would address them...but if the rest of the interior is in really good condition....I would clean and prep it well so I could apply a product on top of it to cover it. If a customer demanded me to get the interior COMPLETELY STRIPPED....they would end up in the hospital with some cardiac problem when I handed them the bill.
That sounds reasonable. I think I am going to scale back my prep work because everything is in pretty good shape. Not much rust.
SO....using automotive grade lacquer thinner and a RED Scotch-brite pad and aid in getting the blue paint off of the SMC panels.
Yep.
But honestly....if the birdcage is still looking good but is blue....and the blue paint is STUCK ON really good.....and you do not see rust...I would not strip it.
Good. I think my birdcage fits that description - I will double check to be sure.
YES...if you want to chemically strip it because your heart is SET on this....YOU MUST be careful if the stripper gets into any seam and you can not get it ALL out. If you can not get it out and neutralized...you are actually doing more harm than good. Use ALL appropriate protective gear and follow all safety instructions and dispose of sued stripped CORRECTLY.
Good to know. I'll be real careful if I need to use stripper in some small areas.
DUB
I was hoping you'd chime in DUB - you are a voice of reason.
First tip....Before you start to jump into stripping something...you need to POST your idea or plans FIRST.....instead of getting started and then asking if this is OK or not OK.
Dang. I saw this coming from you DUB. I swear I saw it coming. OK - no more shooting before aiming.
TIP: When using a heat gun.....OBVIOUSLY you can damage fiberglass. SO...that is when you carefully TEST an area to see how how you NEED to get it....INSTEAD of blasting it high heat and wonder why 'things' are now falling apart. EITHER having a good sense of feel for hot the panel is or getting an Infra Red Thermometer that will tell you how hot you are getting it
Sounds good. So far I have focused on stripping steel parts. If you know a temperature not to exceed for the fiberglass, please let us know.
TIP: I do not heat gun off glue...I soak it or 'wet it out' in lacquer thinner SEVERAL TIMES in a VERY WELL VENTILATED AREA WITH NO HEAT SOURCES OR SPARKS!!!!! And it will often the glue and basically roll off the panel with a towel. The obvious....also having a fire extinguisher near by also.
Good tip. I will try that method for the glue on the fiberglass. So far I have used the heat gun to remove most of the glue from the vertical steel panels behind the seats.
ALL of the caulking that you peeled out SHOULD be re-applied AFTER you prime it....JUST LIKE you mentioned.
Roger that. Epoxy primer first, seam sealer second. Thanks.
I use SEM BEIGE SEAM SEALER. It is catalyzed...so you can not 'dilly-dally' around.
Awesome. That's really good to know.
AS for completely stripping the interior...TO EACH HIS/HER OWN. BUT...for what it is worth....and is what is also know by many people is that the BEST primer in the world is good paint. SO...there would be NO WAY that I would strip every speck of paint off of the interior surfaces and this includes the 'birdcage'. It is the interior and is eventually going to be covered all up with something. IF I see rust or problems I would address them...but if the rest of the interior is in really good condition....I would clean and prep it well so I could apply a product on top of it to cover it. If a customer demanded me to get the interior COMPLETELY STRIPPED....they would end up in the hospital with some cardiac problem when I handed them the bill.
That sounds reasonable. I think I am going to scale back my prep work because everything is in pretty good shape. Not much rust.
SO....using automotive grade lacquer thinner and a RED Scotch-brite pad and aid in getting the blue paint off of the SMC panels.
Yep.
But honestly....if the birdcage is still looking good but is blue....and the blue paint is STUCK ON really good.....and you do not see rust...I would not strip it.
Good. I think my birdcage fits that description - I will double check to be sure.
YES...if you want to chemically strip it because your heart is SET on this....YOU MUST be careful if the stripper gets into any seam and you can not get it ALL out. If you can not get it out and neutralized...you are actually doing more harm than good. Use ALL appropriate protective gear and follow all safety instructions and dispose of sued stripped CORRECTLY.
Good to know. I'll be real careful if I need to use stripper in some small areas.
DUB
05-07-2015, 05:47 PM
#4
Race Director
RBrid,
By NO MEANS do I want to come across as trying to reprimand you for TRYING. I did not mean for it to come across that way if it did.
I always appreciate a person who is motivated....but....if you think of your 'motivation' as a bottle rocket that is in flight. Having a plan and direction allows you to harness your 'motivation' and direct it to where you need to use it.....unlike a bottle rocket that just goes where it wants to fly....and then BURNS OUT...and EXPLODES.
The main thing if your are using a heat gun of fiberglass....because I use it to soften old undercoating so I can get it off easily. I get whatever it is I am trying to get off heated enough to do just that. Also...a TIP/'trick'. When you are using a heat gun. What I do is to NOT point the heat gun directly at the surface. I try to angle the end of the heat gun at a 45 degree angle so that I am heating up the surface...but ALSO...the DIRECTION I am pointing the heat gun is NOW preheating the area I am wanting to head towards and also heat up. NOW..I do point the heat gun directly at the panel...but this is required specifically for me to release bonding adhesive for a panel removal...and once the panel is hot enough ..I then can angle my heat gun.
I will write this...if you are going to use a chemical stripper....you better be CAREFUL. It is not so much about it being used in the car...but rather if it spatters on YOU....ESPECIALLY in your face. The chemical stripper I use is SERIOUS....so I have on the correct gloves....and use a face shield....so JUST IN CASE something happens...I am not running for a water hose.....WHICH has happened to me in the past...and is NO FUN....TRUST ME ON THAT ONE!!!
DUB
By NO MEANS do I want to come across as trying to reprimand you for TRYING. I did not mean for it to come across that way if it did.
I always appreciate a person who is motivated....but....if you think of your 'motivation' as a bottle rocket that is in flight. Having a plan and direction allows you to harness your 'motivation' and direct it to where you need to use it.....unlike a bottle rocket that just goes where it wants to fly....and then BURNS OUT...and EXPLODES.
The main thing if your are using a heat gun of fiberglass....because I use it to soften old undercoating so I can get it off easily. I get whatever it is I am trying to get off heated enough to do just that. Also...a TIP/'trick'. When you are using a heat gun. What I do is to NOT point the heat gun directly at the surface. I try to angle the end of the heat gun at a 45 degree angle so that I am heating up the surface...but ALSO...the DIRECTION I am pointing the heat gun is NOW preheating the area I am wanting to head towards and also heat up. NOW..I do point the heat gun directly at the panel...but this is required specifically for me to release bonding adhesive for a panel removal...and once the panel is hot enough ..I then can angle my heat gun.
I will write this...if you are going to use a chemical stripper....you better be CAREFUL. It is not so much about it being used in the car...but rather if it spatters on YOU....ESPECIALLY in your face. The chemical stripper I use is SERIOUS....so I have on the correct gloves....and use a face shield....so JUST IN CASE something happens...I am not running for a water hose.....WHICH has happened to me in the past...and is NO FUN....TRUST ME ON THAT ONE!!!
DUB
05-07-2015, 09:38 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
RBrid,
By NO MEANS do I want to come across as trying to reprimand you for TRYING. I did not mean for it to come across that way if it did.
No worries. It did not & even if it did, I could take it.
I always appreciate a person who is motivated....but....if you think of your 'motivation' as a bottle rocket that is in flight. Having a plan and direction allows you to harness your 'motivation' and direct it to where you need to use it.....unlike a bottle rocket that just goes where it wants to fly....and then BURNS OUT...and EXPLODES.
My bottle rocket just lifted off - lots of juice left to do adjustments based on your feedback.
I'll sand whatever blue paint will be left on the birdcage for a better primer adhesion.
The main thing if your are using a heat gun of fiberglass....because I use it to soften old undercoating so I can get it off easily.
My '77 has an undercoating too that I want to take off.
I get whatever it is I am trying to get off heated enough to do just that. Also...a TIP/'trick'. When you are using a heat gun. What I do is to NOT point the heat gun directly at the surface. I try to angle the end of the heat gun at a 45 degree angle so that I am heating up the surface...but ALSO...the DIRECTION I am pointing the heat gun is NOW preheating the area I am wanting to head towards and also heat up. NOW..I do point the heat gun directly at the panel...but this is required specifically for me to release bonding adhesive for a panel removal...and once the panel is hot enough ..I then can angle my heat gun.
Good to know because I'm planning to replace the four quarter panels with flared ones.
I will write this...if you are going to use a chemical stripper....you better be CAREFUL. It is not so much about it being used in the car...but rather if it spatters on YOU....ESPECIALLY in your face. The chemical stripper I use is SERIOUS....so I have on the correct gloves....and use a face shield....so JUST IN CASE something happens...I am not running for a water hose.....WHICH has happened to me in the past...and is NO FUN....TRUST ME ON THAT ONE!!!
Yikes. Sounds like the acid that shoots out of the alien in the first Alien movie. I'll keep this in mind.
DUB
By NO MEANS do I want to come across as trying to reprimand you for TRYING. I did not mean for it to come across that way if it did.
No worries. It did not & even if it did, I could take it.
I always appreciate a person who is motivated....but....if you think of your 'motivation' as a bottle rocket that is in flight. Having a plan and direction allows you to harness your 'motivation' and direct it to where you need to use it.....unlike a bottle rocket that just goes where it wants to fly....and then BURNS OUT...and EXPLODES.
My bottle rocket just lifted off - lots of juice left to do adjustments based on your feedback.
I'll sand whatever blue paint will be left on the birdcage for a better primer adhesion.
The main thing if your are using a heat gun of fiberglass....because I use it to soften old undercoating so I can get it off easily.
My '77 has an undercoating too that I want to take off.
I get whatever it is I am trying to get off heated enough to do just that. Also...a TIP/'trick'. When you are using a heat gun. What I do is to NOT point the heat gun directly at the surface. I try to angle the end of the heat gun at a 45 degree angle so that I am heating up the surface...but ALSO...the DIRECTION I am pointing the heat gun is NOW preheating the area I am wanting to head towards and also heat up. NOW..I do point the heat gun directly at the panel...but this is required specifically for me to release bonding adhesive for a panel removal...and once the panel is hot enough ..I then can angle my heat gun.
Good to know because I'm planning to replace the four quarter panels with flared ones.
I will write this...if you are going to use a chemical stripper....you better be CAREFUL. It is not so much about it being used in the car...but rather if it spatters on YOU....ESPECIALLY in your face. The chemical stripper I use is SERIOUS....so I have on the correct gloves....and use a face shield....so JUST IN CASE something happens...I am not running for a water hose.....WHICH has happened to me in the past...and is NO FUN....TRUST ME ON THAT ONE!!!
Yikes. Sounds like the acid that shoots out of the alien in the first Alien movie. I'll keep this in mind.
DUB
05-08-2015, 05:53 PM
#6
Race Director
YES...the chemical stripper is very close to the 'ALIEN' blood in the movie. Do not be afraid of it...just respect it.
DUB
DUB