Jhiltonn

Hi, I need some help figuring out why my drivers side manual crank window on my 72 coupe won't stay rolled up all the way?!?
Once I roll up the window all the way, the next day it's dropped down 1/2". The passenger side is fine, but the drivers side does it every time .
Thanks, Joe

DUB

There must be something that needs an adjustment. I am betting that your upper stops are not being correctly seated against by eh rollers....and this is due to the 'tilt' track may be not set correctly.....and you are fighting with the window to get it up and have them both seat correctly. Obviously...the door panel has to be removed.

The next time you roll up the window...do it with the door open.....and then close it...and then either take photo or draw where the crack handle is pointing. I would like to know how far it moves....and this also depend on how much 'free-play' you have in the left side ....versus the right side.

DUB

Jhiltonn

Thanks DUB for the response! I'll do what you suggest then report back in a few days as I have to out of town on biz this week. Thanks! Joe

Jhiltonn

Hi DUB, after leaving the window rolled up all the way for a couple of days, this is what I found...
1. The window itself moved down nearly 1/2".
2. The crank handle moved clockwise just about 1/4 of a full turn.

What do you think?

Secondly, I really need your help with another issue too...
Since I have my dash apart right now, I thought I would lubricate my speedometer cable. So I did some reasearch on the forum, and it sounded like all I needed to do was unhook the speedo cable, then pull out the inner cable and once out, lubricate the bottom 2/3 of the cable with the speedo lube I bought from Willcox, then slide the inner cable back into the sheath. Sounded easy!! Well No!
I unhooked the cable from the back of the speedometer easily , then I grabbed the inner plastic inside piece with needle nose pliers, but I was only able to pull the inside piece out about 2inches. It won't pull out any more and I'm afraid to pull any harder because the piece I'm grabbing onto is plastic. Plus now it won't go back in either! See picture attached. Should the inner cable be able to pull out? And slide back in after lubing?


Since my needle does a little bouncing around 70 mph, maybe I should just buy a new speedo cable? But it seems there are 1 piece and 2 piece speedo cables u can buy... Mine is a 4 speed and according to this forum and my AIM, it should be a 1 piece cable I need. Plus probably a new rubber grommet or 2. If I buy a new cable, does it need to be lubed b4 use?
Thanks, Joe
PS- you sent me your phone number but I misplaced it.

DUB

Honestly....I would NOW take off the door panel and visually verify that the rollers are contacting the front and rear track stops.....and do the test again.

I have never had a window go down by itself. Especially if the coil spring is on the regulator itself.

First off..... I am careful on how much lube I put on a speedometer cable. Too much can cause it to make it bind up the cable and make the needle bounce. Secondly...I would verify your cable housing is good and even if you need to take out the cable...I would remove it and make sure it is OK. IF NOT...buy a new on and you do not need to lube a new cable before installing it. Your cable could be fine and you either have a problem internally in the speedometer...or the plastic gears in the transmission.

I have cable ends that I have cut off of old cables that allow me to attach them to the speedometer and while using a drill..I can see if the needle bounces...which would lead me to believe that the issue is internal....because my drill is at a constant speed.

DUB

Jhiltonn

Hi DUB, I'll check the rollers out....thanks,

On the speedometer cable, I removed the tranny end then reattached the speedo end and hooked it up to my drill.... It didn't work at all.... The speedometer made noises, which it never did before and jumped around between 1 and 4 mph. I'm thinking I must have damaged the cable end by trying yo pull it out? I had a hard time getting the tip back to where it was before I started everything., but I forced it back in to where it was when I began. I guess I should order a new cable...

Jhiltonn

Hi DUB, the front and back rollers do touch both stops ok. But I think my problem is bigger... The front edge of the window is a tiny bit off as it doesn't fit into the A-pillar WS like the RH side does. It fits nice at the top, but there's a gap at the bottom, so it needs to be pulled in only at the bottom.
The other issue I'm trying to correct is this: the door gap on the front end(fender to door) is twice as large as the back gap(door to rear qtr). I've got new hinge pins & bushings to install, so I figured I would correct the door gaps. Once that's done ill work on the window issues. Maybe the window will fit better once the door gaps are corrected? I do need new pins/bushings as both doors have at least 1/4" up/down play in them. So the plan is to do pins/bushings first, then adjust gaps, then work on window issues.

LASTLY....
I do have an important question on a new speedometer cable.... If I purchase an NOS AC Delco Speedo Cable that's been sitting around for 40 years but never used, do I need to lubricate the inside cable before use?

Thanks DUB!
Joe

DUB

WATCH OUT when you remove the pins and bushings. IF you see that the hole in the hinge that holds the bushing is now elongated.....due tot eh door sagging and the pin actually eating into the hinge....you may need to get hinges......BECAUSE...if you put the pin back in and the bushing does NOT have metal in the critical area to give it strength....the bushing can possibly fail quicker due to not having the needed support for it to have strength.

If and when you get the hinges correct and the door fitting where you want it...and the window is still botched up....and you get aggravated and can not figure out how to get it adjusted...you will need to post some photos.

I would more than likely install the cable like it is if it is still wrapped up. I would check the grease and see if it is still good and has not hardened up. If it is fine I would put it in...because like I wrote before...only because I was told this by my gauge restorer guy...you have to be careful on how much grease you put on the cable...if any at all.

DUB

Jhiltonn

Thank you again DUB for the help! Especially the tip on the hinge bushings!!