1995 Artic White re-paint
07-02-2015, 02:43 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
1995 Artic White re-paint
DUB - All
I am working on my shopping list.
So the new hood is on and aligned. I have sanded enough back on the corner of the hood that was previously repaired to see that taking about 1" and 1/2 inches off the a hood with a good corner and bonding it to new the hood will definitely make a better corner. It looks like bondo that is stuck on there now. I am planing to separate the hood surface and leave the undamaged support on the corner of the hood that stays on the car. On the donor hood I'll remove the support structure from the bottom of the corner, trim that corner off and use panel adhesive to bond and patch.
There is also a 18 inch long scratch / gouge in the rear quarter that goes into the fiberglass - total depth appx 1/16 inch and is about 3/16 inch wide. It was from a bolt sticking out from a car that almost passed by. No surrounding stress cracks. I am thinking panel adhesive here as well?
The same quarter that also has some paint peeling near the rear window that appears to be a result of a poor repair to that quarter and water setting next to the weatherstrip. Planning to take that quarter to the primer.
The bumpers are good overall but all the paint needs to come off due to cracking. Rest of the car - I am planning to get the clear coat off.
Please let me know if this sounds like the right approach.
I have a DA and a more than big enough compressor.
Sand paper - Please recommend grit and qty
Razors
1 gallon Wax remover / pre-cleaner
Primer (Slick Sand?) - Sealer (?) Recommendations please - Qty also
Panel adhesive
Tape
Plastic or paper to use over engine, roof, and back window.
What else?
I am planning to paint it artic white w/ clearcoat myself. Again any brand recommendations?
Finally - Should a I get a paint gun is good enough for primer and and another that is better for paint or one that is good for the paint and use it for the primer and sealer.
Thanks in advance.
I am working on my shopping list.
So the new hood is on and aligned. I have sanded enough back on the corner of the hood that was previously repaired to see that taking about 1" and 1/2 inches off the a hood with a good corner and bonding it to new the hood will definitely make a better corner. It looks like bondo that is stuck on there now. I am planing to separate the hood surface and leave the undamaged support on the corner of the hood that stays on the car. On the donor hood I'll remove the support structure from the bottom of the corner, trim that corner off and use panel adhesive to bond and patch.
There is also a 18 inch long scratch / gouge in the rear quarter that goes into the fiberglass - total depth appx 1/16 inch and is about 3/16 inch wide. It was from a bolt sticking out from a car that almost passed by. No surrounding stress cracks. I am thinking panel adhesive here as well?
The same quarter that also has some paint peeling near the rear window that appears to be a result of a poor repair to that quarter and water setting next to the weatherstrip. Planning to take that quarter to the primer.
The bumpers are good overall but all the paint needs to come off due to cracking. Rest of the car - I am planning to get the clear coat off.
Please let me know if this sounds like the right approach.
I have a DA and a more than big enough compressor.
Sand paper - Please recommend grit and qty
Razors
1 gallon Wax remover / pre-cleaner
Primer (Slick Sand?) - Sealer (?) Recommendations please - Qty also
Panel adhesive
Tape
Plastic or paper to use over engine, roof, and back window.
What else?
I am planning to paint it artic white w/ clearcoat myself. Again any brand recommendations?
Finally - Should a I get a paint gun is good enough for primer and and another that is better for paint or one that is good for the paint and use it for the primer and sealer.
Thanks in advance.
07-02-2015, 06:30 PM
#2
Race Director
DUB - All
I am working on my shopping list.
So the new hood is on and aligned. I have sanded enough back on the corner of the hood that was previously repaired to see that taking about 1" and 1/2 inches off the a hood with a good corner and bonding it to new the hood will definitely make a better corner. It looks like bondo that is stuck on there now. I am planing to separate the hood surface and leave the undamaged support on the corner of the hood that stays on the car. On the donor hood I'll remove the support structure from the bottom of the corner, trim that corner off and use panel adhesive to bond and patch.
Do as you wish....but posting a few photos of your idea on this 'splicing in' repair might be wise.
There is also a 18 inch long scratch / gouge in the rear quarter that goes into the fiberglass - total depth appx 1/16 inch and is about 3/16 inch wide. It was from a bolt sticking out from a car that almost passed by. No surrounding stress cracks. I am thinking panel adhesive here as well?
YES...I would use Vette Panel Adhesive...especially knowing that NO stress cracks are visible.
The same quarter that also has some paint peeling near the rear window that appears to be a result of a poor repair to that quarter and water setting next to the weatherstrip. Planning to take that quarter to the primer.
YES...get to the 'bottom' of that delamination/peeling
The bumpers are good overall but all the paint needs to come off due to cracking.
YES...verify that these bumpers have NOT been shot on AFTER the factory paint. If they had...you need to get the paint off...and that can take a lot of time...so do not be in a hurry. The LAST THING you want to do is sand on these bumper covers and go all the way down to the raw urethane...and then also still have paint on it so the bumper would look all splotchy. IF you sand them and do go into the raw urethane....do not wipe it with a solvent of any kind if possible. And you would want to sand off the layers of whatever is on them as much as possible. So if you ahve 5 layers of 'whatever' on teh bumper....and you go all teh way down tot eh raw urethene is several spots.....it is best if you can remove as many COMPLETE layers of 'whatever'as possible. This will make is so there is less a chance for a problem in swelling or 'ring-out' in the future. Taking the bumper all the way down to raw urethane is fine also....which would stop any problems in ring-out or swelling of layers of paint...but understand that raw urethane bumpers are 'touchy' and have to be handled differently...and what is applied to them and how they are cleaned and what they are cleaned with MAKES a big difference.
Rest of the car - I am planning to get the clear coat off.
I guess this is OK...but I have not seen the paint...and if teh car has been painted over the factory job.
Please let me know if this sounds like the right approach.
Yes...from the information you have given so far.
I have a DA and a more than big enough compressor.
Sand paper - Please recommend grit and qty
Razors
I am NOT writing that you can not use a DA...but it can mess you up really fast if you think that it is your 'go-to tool' for all sanding procedures. You have to know when to put it down,
1 gallon Wax remover / pre-cleaner
Primer (Slick Sand?) - Sealer (?) Recommendations please - Qty also
Panel adhesive
Tape
Plastic or paper to use over engine, roof, and back window.
I mask off the hood in a way that requires no paper on the engine. I take out the back hatch glass and weatherstrip so I can correctly paint that area...then re-install it. So when the hatch goes up...around the hatch hinge area is slick and shiny.
What else?
I use many other materials...and it is hard to tell you what you need. Each car is basically the same..but some require other materials.
I am planning to paint it artic white w/ clearcoat myself. Again any brand recommendations?
I do not know what is available in your area.
Finally - Should a I get a paint gun is good enough for primer and and another that is better for paint or one that is good for the paint and use it for the primer and sealer.
If you are planning on using 'slicksand'...and they recommend a needle size being 'X'....and that size is bigger than what you need for the paint and clear you buy.....then yes...you may have different guns. BUT....I will write this once again....TEST, TEST, TEST. meaning...when you are ready to spray primer...make sure you are knowing what to do with it BEFORE you go and spray a panel you have worked so hard to prep correctly. SO...doing a test is WISE. SEVERAL test panels if needed. The SAME goes for ANY OTHER PRODUCT. Test it on something you do not care about before you pull the trigger on your Corvette. IF you do not know what these products do..and how they react...then going in on your car...basically BLIND is foolish. The MORE you PRACTICE and TEST the products you spray out on test panels...will aid you in not being so NERVOUS when you go and actually pull the trigger on your car. IF this makes sense...then apply this advice.
Thanks in advance.
I am working on my shopping list.
So the new hood is on and aligned. I have sanded enough back on the corner of the hood that was previously repaired to see that taking about 1" and 1/2 inches off the a hood with a good corner and bonding it to new the hood will definitely make a better corner. It looks like bondo that is stuck on there now. I am planing to separate the hood surface and leave the undamaged support on the corner of the hood that stays on the car. On the donor hood I'll remove the support structure from the bottom of the corner, trim that corner off and use panel adhesive to bond and patch.
Do as you wish....but posting a few photos of your idea on this 'splicing in' repair might be wise.
There is also a 18 inch long scratch / gouge in the rear quarter that goes into the fiberglass - total depth appx 1/16 inch and is about 3/16 inch wide. It was from a bolt sticking out from a car that almost passed by. No surrounding stress cracks. I am thinking panel adhesive here as well?
YES...I would use Vette Panel Adhesive...especially knowing that NO stress cracks are visible.
The same quarter that also has some paint peeling near the rear window that appears to be a result of a poor repair to that quarter and water setting next to the weatherstrip. Planning to take that quarter to the primer.
YES...get to the 'bottom' of that delamination/peeling
The bumpers are good overall but all the paint needs to come off due to cracking.
YES...verify that these bumpers have NOT been shot on AFTER the factory paint. If they had...you need to get the paint off...and that can take a lot of time...so do not be in a hurry. The LAST THING you want to do is sand on these bumper covers and go all the way down to the raw urethane...and then also still have paint on it so the bumper would look all splotchy. IF you sand them and do go into the raw urethane....do not wipe it with a solvent of any kind if possible. And you would want to sand off the layers of whatever is on them as much as possible. So if you ahve 5 layers of 'whatever' on teh bumper....and you go all teh way down tot eh raw urethene is several spots.....it is best if you can remove as many COMPLETE layers of 'whatever'as possible. This will make is so there is less a chance for a problem in swelling or 'ring-out' in the future. Taking the bumper all the way down to raw urethane is fine also....which would stop any problems in ring-out or swelling of layers of paint...but understand that raw urethane bumpers are 'touchy' and have to be handled differently...and what is applied to them and how they are cleaned and what they are cleaned with MAKES a big difference.
Rest of the car - I am planning to get the clear coat off.
I guess this is OK...but I have not seen the paint...and if teh car has been painted over the factory job.
Please let me know if this sounds like the right approach.
Yes...from the information you have given so far.
I have a DA and a more than big enough compressor.
Sand paper - Please recommend grit and qty
Razors
I am NOT writing that you can not use a DA...but it can mess you up really fast if you think that it is your 'go-to tool' for all sanding procedures. You have to know when to put it down,
1 gallon Wax remover / pre-cleaner
Primer (Slick Sand?) - Sealer (?) Recommendations please - Qty also
Panel adhesive
Tape
Plastic or paper to use over engine, roof, and back window.
I mask off the hood in a way that requires no paper on the engine. I take out the back hatch glass and weatherstrip so I can correctly paint that area...then re-install it. So when the hatch goes up...around the hatch hinge area is slick and shiny.
What else?
I use many other materials...and it is hard to tell you what you need. Each car is basically the same..but some require other materials.
I am planning to paint it artic white w/ clearcoat myself. Again any brand recommendations?
I do not know what is available in your area.
Finally - Should a I get a paint gun is good enough for primer and and another that is better for paint or one that is good for the paint and use it for the primer and sealer.
If you are planning on using 'slicksand'...and they recommend a needle size being 'X'....and that size is bigger than what you need for the paint and clear you buy.....then yes...you may have different guns. BUT....I will write this once again....TEST, TEST, TEST. meaning...when you are ready to spray primer...make sure you are knowing what to do with it BEFORE you go and spray a panel you have worked so hard to prep correctly. SO...doing a test is WISE. SEVERAL test panels if needed. The SAME goes for ANY OTHER PRODUCT. Test it on something you do not care about before you pull the trigger on your Corvette. IF you do not know what these products do..and how they react...then going in on your car...basically BLIND is foolish. The MORE you PRACTICE and TEST the products you spray out on test panels...will aid you in not being so NERVOUS when you go and actually pull the trigger on your car. IF this makes sense...then apply this advice.
Thanks in advance.
You can and will get this done.....that I do not doubt.
DUB