Critique my plan
07-02-2015, 03:40 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Critique my plan
I have a '68 with at least a couple different colors over the years. It has a '73/'74 nose right now. I got a used repro 68/69 front clip (free!) with a couple minor repairs needed (only crack is pictured below). The "new" clip has red and gray primer on it. The plan is to start pulling the 73 clip this weekend, then start the process of stripping, bodywork and paint. I've done some bodywork before, from bare metal to the 2K primer, but this is my first go-round with fiberglass.
After research and reading on here and other places, I think this is my plan:
Strip as far as I can with heat and razor blade. Chemical strip anything that's left.
Glass mat and fabric (fabric on back side, mat in resin on front, correct?) for repairs. Rework the seams with mat and resin (grind shallow "v" and fill).
Put front clip on with Evercoat VPA.
Sand with 80 grit, then fill lows with VPA
Evercoat glazing filler to fill pinholes and get everything smooth
Sand with 180
2 coats sealer epoxy
2-3 coats of 2K
Sand (220 to 600?)
Base and clear (professionally applied).
This means the products I need are VPA, mat, fabric, resin, glazing putty. Do I need a fiberglass filler or Rage-type product (used Rage Gold before, but it's metal only?)?
Does this sound like reasonable plan? What am I missing?
I know I'm going to have a couple fiberglass-repair-specific questions as I go. I'm very patient and in no hurry. Also, don't be afraid to thump me for something wrong. I have rhino hide and am only interested in the best results I can get. Thanks for the great forum!
Eric
After research and reading on here and other places, I think this is my plan:
Strip as far as I can with heat and razor blade. Chemical strip anything that's left.
Glass mat and fabric (fabric on back side, mat in resin on front, correct?) for repairs. Rework the seams with mat and resin (grind shallow "v" and fill).
Put front clip on with Evercoat VPA.
Sand with 80 grit, then fill lows with VPA
Evercoat glazing filler to fill pinholes and get everything smooth
Sand with 180
2 coats sealer epoxy
2-3 coats of 2K
Sand (220 to 600?)
Base and clear (professionally applied).
This means the products I need are VPA, mat, fabric, resin, glazing putty. Do I need a fiberglass filler or Rage-type product (used Rage Gold before, but it's metal only?)?
Does this sound like reasonable plan? What am I missing?
I know I'm going to have a couple fiberglass-repair-specific questions as I go. I'm very patient and in no hurry. Also, don't be afraid to thump me for something wrong. I have rhino hide and am only interested in the best results I can get. Thanks for the great forum!
Eric
Last edited by E.Murray; 07-02-2015 at 03:49 PM.
07-02-2015, 07:00 PM
#2
Race Director
Strip as far as I can with heat and razor blade. Chemical strip anything that's left.
YES...that is what I do.
Glass mat and fabric (fabric on back side, mat in resin on front, correct?) for repairs.
Yes and NO, Not all repairs require this though process. It depends on the repair. And laminating matt and resin ...if you want the repair strong requires your attention...and not just slapping stuff on a panel. NOT writing that is what you would do...but knowing you have not done fiberglass work.,..I am letting you know that it is not hard to do...just takes a person paying attention to what they are doing.
Rework the seams with mat and resin (grind shallow "v" and fill).
You can if you choose...I never have and will never do it that way. I have been doing it another way for decades that works perfectly and has never failed....and is not so labor intensive. I use VPA instead of matt and resin
Put front clip on with Evercoat VPA.
YES...but you better test to make sure you get your harder to VPA ratio correct so it does not rock up on you too quickly. The other option is use Evercoat's SMC Panel Adhesive ( part number 994) YES...it works perfectly also.....but...once again....you need to get the mixing ratio to work for you. I use both when i am bonding clips on.
Sand with 80 grit, then fill lows with VPA
Yes..that will work.
Evercoat glazing filler to fill pinholes and get everything smooth
I use the VPA for everything....but that is just me
Sand with 180
YES
2 coats sealer epoxy
2-3 coats of 2K
Sand (220 to 600?)
Base and clear (professionally applied).
This means the products I need are VPA, mat, fabric, resin, glazing putty. Do I need a fiberglass filler or Rage-type product (used Rage Gold before, but it's metal only?)?
Does this sound like reasonable plan? What am I missing?
I know I'm going to have a couple fiberglass-repair-specific questions as I go. I'm very patient and in no hurry. Also, don't be afraid to thump me for something wrong. I have rhino hide and am only interested in the best results I can get. Thanks for the great forum!
Eric
YES...that is what I do.
Glass mat and fabric (fabric on back side, mat in resin on front, correct?) for repairs.
Yes and NO, Not all repairs require this though process. It depends on the repair. And laminating matt and resin ...if you want the repair strong requires your attention...and not just slapping stuff on a panel. NOT writing that is what you would do...but knowing you have not done fiberglass work.,..I am letting you know that it is not hard to do...just takes a person paying attention to what they are doing.
Rework the seams with mat and resin (grind shallow "v" and fill).
You can if you choose...I never have and will never do it that way. I have been doing it another way for decades that works perfectly and has never failed....and is not so labor intensive. I use VPA instead of matt and resin
Put front clip on with Evercoat VPA.
YES...but you better test to make sure you get your harder to VPA ratio correct so it does not rock up on you too quickly. The other option is use Evercoat's SMC Panel Adhesive ( part number 994) YES...it works perfectly also.....but...once again....you need to get the mixing ratio to work for you. I use both when i am bonding clips on.
Sand with 80 grit, then fill lows with VPA
Yes..that will work.
Evercoat glazing filler to fill pinholes and get everything smooth
I use the VPA for everything....but that is just me
Sand with 180
YES
2 coats sealer epoxy
2-3 coats of 2K
Sand (220 to 600?)
Base and clear (professionally applied).
This means the products I need are VPA, mat, fabric, resin, glazing putty. Do I need a fiberglass filler or Rage-type product (used Rage Gold before, but it's metal only?)?
Does this sound like reasonable plan? What am I missing?
I know I'm going to have a couple fiberglass-repair-specific questions as I go. I'm very patient and in no hurry. Also, don't be afraid to thump me for something wrong. I have rhino hide and am only interested in the best results I can get. Thanks for the great forum!
Eric
DUB
07-03-2015, 10:31 AM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks, DUB. Any suggestions for better or easier-but-just-as-good changes?
So the vpa feathers and fills and smooths well enough to use all by itself?
Also, on the gelcoat, I didn't include it because I don't know anything about it. I know it's hard and good stuff, but is it something a novice can do? What product? I don't mind researching and trying something new, but don't want something I'll screw up...
Thanks,
Eric
So the vpa feathers and fills and smooths well enough to use all by itself?
Also, on the gelcoat, I didn't include it because I don't know anything about it. I know it's hard and good stuff, but is it something a novice can do? What product? I don't mind researching and trying something new, but don't want something I'll screw up...
Thanks,
Eric
07-03-2015, 06:07 PM
#4
Race Director
Thanks, DUB. Any suggestions for better or easier-but-just-as-good changes?
In regards to what????
So the vpa feathers and fills and smooths well enough to use all by itself?
YES and NO....you need to be very specific when asking questions, YES....filling in the bonding seam the VPA works fine all by itself. VPA does have limits. SO knowing what it is going to be used for is critical. As for the crack in your front clip...I would need to see the crack...and see if the crack can be opened /widened manually by hand. That would let me know if I needed to laminate or use VPA...or VPA with some mat, etc. So it is difficult to know what it is needed for
Also, on the gelcoat, I didn't include it because I don't know anything about it. I know it's hard and good stuff, but is it something a novice can do? What product? I don't mind researching and trying something new, but don't want something I'll screw up...
Thanks,
Eric
In regards to what????
So the vpa feathers and fills and smooths well enough to use all by itself?
YES and NO....you need to be very specific when asking questions, YES....filling in the bonding seam the VPA works fine all by itself. VPA does have limits. SO knowing what it is going to be used for is critical. As for the crack in your front clip...I would need to see the crack...and see if the crack can be opened /widened manually by hand. That would let me know if I needed to laminate or use VPA...or VPA with some mat, etc. So it is difficult to know what it is needed for
Also, on the gelcoat, I didn't include it because I don't know anything about it. I know it's hard and good stuff, but is it something a novice can do? What product? I don't mind researching and trying something new, but don't want something I'll screw up...
Thanks,
Eric
If you want to use gelcoat...and get the gun that can apply it....that is your choice. AS for 'screwing up' something only happens to those people who do not TEST IT FIRST and see what it can do...which means.....using some of the product to understand what it is doing and how to prep it after a test panel application. This often times scares people off and they find another method. That is their choice. AS I have found that when a Corvette is in process being done by someone else doing their own car....anything that slows it down or takes added effort in most cases is something that is not chosen due to the 'light at the end of the tunnel' can bee seen and they want the car done so they can drive it. NOT always...but a vast majority of the time.
AS for the type of gelcoat. I get mine form a fiberglass manufacturing company in South Carolina....so i can drive and get it. This has been discussed in the 'Paint and Body' section of the forum so you might start looking for posts. I know some have used the Evercoat gelcoat...while others have found something else. I prefer to use the gelcoat that requires the PVA to be applied on top of it....versus....the gelcoat that has wax in it.
Read the second reply...it may help a bit.
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...at-or-not.html
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 07-05-2015 at 05:51 PM.
07-04-2015, 11:14 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
If you're doing a front clip change then RVZIO's thread titled "rvzio 69 restore" is a MUST read for you! He covers it step by step with a lot of detail with help from many forum members, especially DUB.
07-07-2015, 02:46 PM
#6
Racer
Thread Starter
Wow. I just spent the last couple hours on that thread and pulled 8 pages of pictures for reference when I'm doing mine. Thanks for the tip!