sullyman56

I have a 68 that I have replaced the front and rear clips and the door skins. It's been sanded and ready for primer. I was thinking of using a product like DuPont feather fill or Evercoat feather fill. Anybody have any thoughts or opinions on either one. Which is better, easier to apply etc? Thanks in advance.

Dave Tracy

The type of paint you use will have an influence on your primer. Are you going to gel coat or place an epoxy primer?

sullyman56

I was thinking of using a polyester/ urethane primer and not apply gel coat. That's going by what the body shop advised me after they installed the new body parts.

sullyman56

Are you out there DUB? Looking for advice. Thanks

porchdog

if you are not going to gel coat it then i would use epoxy . polyester on top if you really need a lot of build. forget the urethane primer . it will be the weak link in the job .

sullyman56

It doesn't look too bad really. There's only a couple of spots where it needs to be filled and they are very shallow. Thanks

porchdog

i did the 57 with 6 coats of epoxy . it's just my preference .

DUB

I get on the Corvette Forum once a day....when I get home from working on Corvettes all day. I do not get on the computer at work during work hours...I have too much going on to be able to do that...I can not sit that still long enough to get on the forum. SO...AFTER 5PM, eastern time is when I log on. Just so you and those who may care also now know. IF you really need me...then PM me a link to your post.

Uhhhh...Gelcoat would be what I would use. As I have written numerous times. Gelcoat is in a world all its own. NOTHING is like gelcoat.

YES...many different types of primers can be used and some have the ones they like ( just like myself). Are they wrong in using them....NO. I do not judge what someone puts on their Corvette because I do not have to warranty it or worry about it. I may express my opinion or experience in a specific product..but stopping a person from using a product...well...that is just not my job.

I can say that if you plan on using a polyester primer instead of a gelcoat. Your choice...obviously. The effort to sand the gelcoat versus the polyester primer is not that far apart. BUT polyester primer is not gelcoat and can not provide a 'turtle shell' of protection to your body from contaminants from underneath. The paint gun needed to shoot the polyester primer is basically the same for shooting gelcoat for those who are wondering about that.

I have never used Dupont polyester primer so I can not comment on it at all. As for the Evercoat Featherfill. I used it a very long time ago and did not like it due to the fine pinholes that would be in the primer when it was sanded. I do not know if Evercoat has reformulated it...and I have not tired it to see if it is like the polyester primer I use that DOES NOT pinhole. I have found a polyester primer that does all I want it to do and it passes a few tests and has not given me a problem....ever.

Is 'porchdogs' recommendation a good one. YES it is. Will it work....YES it can You can epoxy primer and apply a polyester primer on the panel. I just choose to do it on later year model Corvettes that are not press-molded fiberglass panel of the early era cars myself. Just a different way of doing it. FOR ME....Corvettes that can take gelcoat get gelcoated.

Please understand that I have over the years. I have grown and changed into 'my own worst enemy'. Often times some of my 'passionate' opinions are just that....my opinions. What I use and why I use it satisfies my analytical dissection of 'what if's'. This is due to having problems in the past and finding what works so I do not have to deal with a problem TWICE.....regardless of what it takes to do this so I do not have to do it TWICE. So my recommendations of using (for example) Vette Panel Adhesive versus Rage Gold....is only because Vette Panel Adhesive can do repairs and 'things' that Rage Gold can NOT do. But Vette Panel adhesive can do everything that Rage Gold can do. So...If there is a product that offers MORE in regards to capabilities...why not use it....even though it may take a bit more effort to use it. Same holds true to gelcoat versus polyester primer. Along with other products. SO...this is why I reply the way I do. BECAUSE.....until it happens to a person who has spent so much time doing all the work and getting the car painted...only to find out in very short time there is a MAJOR problem and it has to be done all over again....THEN....that is when LOGIC would tell this person NOT to do it the way they just did it....because expecting it to turn out CORRECT using the SAME process is INSANE. BEEN THERE.....DONE THAT!

DUB

sullyman56

The replacement clips and door skins are not press molded and are hand laid. Does this make a difference as to whether I should apply gelcoat to it? I was looking at Evercoat polyester G2 feather fill primer. If I weren't to use this, what is the product that you use? This is new territory for me and I'll admit that I have no idea what I should use. The body shop that did the work for me recommended a polyester primer and they use DuPont products. I want to make sure that I do this right. Your help will be greatly appreciated.

porchdog

when i use polyester i use slicksand . sand better than the featherfill . but i only use it when heavy build is needed. the fewer products you use the fewer chances for a product failure . on mine i have epoxy, single stage color and clear . nothing else in the mix . in the 60-70's when we used lacquer there was nothing to hold down repairs. featherfill came along but it was horrible to shoot and worse to sand . so gelcoat was the only option. many still use it today . a very good friend who i've know forever still does his work the same as we did then. he would still be using lacquer if it were available . but gelcoat needs a large gun and some experience to lay it down . make a plan and stick to it .
and nothing dupont gets through my door .

DUB

Aftermarket door skins and front clip should already be gelcoated during the manufacturing process. So.,..it is not needed to re-gelcoat them again UNLESS they are sanded so aggressively that you take off the gelcoat. IN my opinion.

AS I wrote....I can not recommend or confirm that using the G2 product will work. i do not sue it so I do not know any of its capabilities or any of its short comings. 'Porchdog" recommended 'Slicksand'...and I would have to trust his suggestion...beacsue what I sue is often times laughed upon...because it is NOT a manufacturer paint line that most people like. But their polyester primer is 'wicked'.

AS for the shop painting your car using Dupont. Many of us painters have paint manufacturers and systems that we love and some that we would not use on the underside of a lawn mower. I have shot many different paint systems and types...and I prefer what I prefer. Do the other's SUCK...YES...in my opinion...but that is just because they are different and do not allow me to do what I know how to do with what I know the best. BUT the main thing is if the shop painting your car KNOWS the DuPont product line VERY WELL...and they stand behind it. Then I would not worry because it is on them and DuPonts warranty. BUT...also be careful.....depending on the shops warranty and guarantee....If YOU are the one applying the primer and 'whatever'.....you may find that the guarantee is ONLY for what they do and apply. So...if the primer you apply begins to blister off...and takes the Dupont paint with it....they more than likely will not cover it. Just guessing ...but it makes sense that they would not. SO...just make sure it is CLEARLY UNDERSTOOD by you and the shop and Duponts warranty dept that the primer you choose ( or were told to use) will be acceptable and not the 'glitch' that now makes it so no one has to warranty anything at all. This should NOT be the case...and this is because a polyester primer will allow any sealer to be applied to it so a paint can be applied...and that is important.

DUB

sullyman56

Thanks DUB. Good to know about the new panels being gel coated. The body shop showed me how to sand them and not to get too aggressive, just to scuff them up so the primer will have a properly prepared surface to adhere to. So, with that done, I'm ready to prime it. I've looked at Evercoat slick sand and that's what I'm going with. I was told that I would need 2 gallons and to apply 4 coats. I haven't decided, but I'm even considering painting the car myself. I've never done it before so it'll certainly be a learning experience and I'll have lots of questions. Thanks for everyone's input.

porchdog

you need at least a 2.3-2.5 gun . remember slick sand has a very short pot life. mix only 1 cup at a time and rinse the gun every time . also make sure there is no push in filter in the cup . if you reduce it use very slow reducer .

DUB

1000% YES....1000%.

If you are not sure on how it works...TEST spraying it on a TEST panel so you can see how it reacts.

DUB

sullyman56

Thanks guys. I have some old body parts that I can test on. Now I have to find a suitable spray gun. I was thinking of a HVLP Gravity feed gun. Any thoughts on a particular brand that won't break the bank?

porchdog

northern tools always has one or tcp global . about 40 bucks . i bought a vaper 2.3 from northern and it lasted about 4 years . replaced it with a 2.5 from tcp global for 39 dollars .

sullyman56

I was looking at one that has a pressure regulator attached. My compressor doesn't allow me to lower the pressure. I'll check out northern tools and see what they have. Thanks PD.

sullyman56

I'm thinking about going with an epoxy primer instead of polyester. What size tip do I need for the spray gun? TIA

sullyman56

I'm considering going with an epoxy/ polyester combination as you suggested. I'm looking at a HVLP gun with a 2.3 tip. Will that work ok for both types of primer? Thanks in advance.

DUB

2.3 is a bit big for epoxy primer....but maybe you can do a test and turn your fluid control back so you are not allowing ALL of the primer to come out when you pull the trigger and still achieve a good coat...without it being excessive. I would HIGHLY ADVISE that you CONFIRM your gun set-up BEFORE you pull a trigger on your car....or your may regret it.

And...this can be 'tricky'...but when doing this test with the epoxy...it would also be in your best interests that you get ALL of the information you need from the manufacturer...so if it is suggested in their product information bulletin...that each coat should fall within a specific range of thickness....you TRY to achieve that in your set up.

So..if you apply two coats and they suggest two coats...and those two coats when dry are a thickness that falls in a range that they approve.

I would...just to be safe....prime a piece of steel that has s piece of masking tape on it. when it is dry...remove the tape and see if you can gauge the thickness of the two coats you applied. Some paint stores have a mil gauge.

Last thing you want to do is shoot a product you have never shot or no nothing about and apply it on so thick that it fools you that it is flashed off and dry enough to apply the polyester primer.

Hopefully 'porchdog' will chime in and give you more specific information that can help you.

DUB