1967 Coupe door prep
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
1967 Coupe door prep
Hi, Door jam, on the door. Epoxy primer? Do I need 2K primer to go over that before sealer, base and clear? Or how ekse to go it. Outside of door has Gel Coat, then Slicksand. Thanks, Fred
#2
Race Director
Fred,
The inside jamb areas of the door. Once they have been stripped of ALL paint and primer.....I apply epoxy primer to the steel portion of the door where your latch mechanism is attached. You can allow some of the epoxy to get onto the PREPPED fiberglass right by the steel portion of the door latch area.
Once that epoxy has cured/dried. I apply a bead of seam sealer at this area wher eth fierbglass panela dn teh steel protion that you just epoxy primes is sealed off. i do not get crazy witht eh seam sealer...i do really clean job in applying it.
Then...I apply polyester primer over all of that.
BE CAREFUL when you are doing this...BECAUSE....IF you ahve already applied gelcoat and slicksand to the edges of the door...you will wan to make sure that they are prepped so if you shoot more slicksand on them...IT WILL STICK!!!
I don't shoot and waste my epoxy on the rest of the bare fiberglass of the door....but you can if you want. BUT...BE AWARE of the edges of the doors where you have possibly applied gelcoat and slicksand. NO NEED for epoxy to go over that stuff....BUT it can....as long as you prep it to stick. BUT...honestly I would not.
DUB
The inside jamb areas of the door. Once they have been stripped of ALL paint and primer.....I apply epoxy primer to the steel portion of the door where your latch mechanism is attached. You can allow some of the epoxy to get onto the PREPPED fiberglass right by the steel portion of the door latch area.
Once that epoxy has cured/dried. I apply a bead of seam sealer at this area wher eth fierbglass panela dn teh steel protion that you just epoxy primes is sealed off. i do not get crazy witht eh seam sealer...i do really clean job in applying it.
Then...I apply polyester primer over all of that.
BE CAREFUL when you are doing this...BECAUSE....IF you ahve already applied gelcoat and slicksand to the edges of the door...you will wan to make sure that they are prepped so if you shoot more slicksand on them...IT WILL STICK!!!
I don't shoot and waste my epoxy on the rest of the bare fiberglass of the door....but you can if you want. BUT...BE AWARE of the edges of the doors where you have possibly applied gelcoat and slicksand. NO NEED for epoxy to go over that stuff....BUT it can....as long as you prep it to stick. BUT...honestly I would not.
DUB
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks DUB. No, I don't intend to get the epoxy primer on the side of the door that is now covered with GC and SS. I thought that on the metal I could go directly to the sealer that I'm using under my basecoat and not do poly primer. No big deal. Thanks again for the info. Fred.
#4
Race Director
Thanks DUB. No, I don't intend to get the epoxy primer on the side of the door that is now covered with GC and SS. I thought that on the metal I could go directly to the sealer that I'm using under my basecoat and not do poly primer. No big deal. Thanks again for the info. Fred.
You can apply epoxy primer on the inside of your door and paint right on it if you want to. It all depends on how well it looks to you and if you can live with any texture in the fiberglass with only the epoxy applied over it.
A lot of it depends on how slick the fiberglass is and how good it looks when you shoot a couple of coats of epoxy on it. You do not have to go to polyester primer. It is inside the door...the visual area is somewhat limited....and if the door jamb is a major concern of appearance to you.
DUB
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks DUB, I think you are correct and a Poly Primer would be in order. I've taken so much time with the jams, might as well do it the best I can.
Regards, Fred
Regards, Fred
#6
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
If the weather cooperates tomorrow, I'll hit the jams on the car and the door with epoxy primer. You couldn't pay me enough to do this for a living.
Sorry they are sideways? I didn't take them that way!
Sorry they are sideways? I didn't take them that way!
Last edited by TWINRAY; 09-02-2015 at 05:47 PM.
#7
Race Director
Imagine ALL the money you saved. OH...that's right...I FORGOT.... body prep / repair and painting takes no skill and anybody can do it because it is so simple.
But seriously...the one benefit that you have it a COMPLETE understanding on WHAT IT TAKES. The skills that you have acquired are skills that most will never appreciate. Many people don't and never will understand the DEPTH of what it takes.
Like I have written before... A person has to WANT TO DO THIS type of work. If that person does not WANT IT...then it will be an undertaking that will turn into a complete 'cluster'. It is so easy to walk away and stop because it gets hard and involved....but those people who stick it out...realize that they accomplished something that they can be proud of. And if they do stop and want to pay someone...well get out the wallet.
TWINRAY, Keep up the GOOD WORK! The end is getting near. And what you are doing even if you are not aware of it is that you are still repairing problems when the end is so close and NOT doing repairs that would effect the outcome in the future that would ruin what you have done previously. I APPLAUD you for that. Do not sacrifice quality when the end is near...especially when QUALITY was PARAMOUNT in the beginning of the project. I have seen SO MANY PEOPLE who do the opposite....and the end result SHOWS IT! Getting impatient and 'just wanting it to get done'....is....or can be ...the 'kiss of death'.
DUB
But seriously...the one benefit that you have it a COMPLETE understanding on WHAT IT TAKES. The skills that you have acquired are skills that most will never appreciate. Many people don't and never will understand the DEPTH of what it takes.
Like I have written before... A person has to WANT TO DO THIS type of work. If that person does not WANT IT...then it will be an undertaking that will turn into a complete 'cluster'. It is so easy to walk away and stop because it gets hard and involved....but those people who stick it out...realize that they accomplished something that they can be proud of. And if they do stop and want to pay someone...well get out the wallet.
TWINRAY, Keep up the GOOD WORK! The end is getting near. And what you are doing even if you are not aware of it is that you are still repairing problems when the end is so close and NOT doing repairs that would effect the outcome in the future that would ruin what you have done previously. I APPLAUD you for that. Do not sacrifice quality when the end is near...especially when QUALITY was PARAMOUNT in the beginning of the project. I have seen SO MANY PEOPLE who do the opposite....and the end result SHOWS IT! Getting impatient and 'just wanting it to get done'....is....or can be ...the 'kiss of death'.
DUB
#8
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks for the kind words DUB, I started today about 9:30 and after clean up, it was 5:30. I did take a half hour lunch while the SPI Epoxy was activating. It went on amazing. I can see my reflection on the headlight buckets. I did 2 coats. By the time I preped the metal, masked the doors, hooked up the hoses, mixed and activated the epoxy, it wasn't till after 1 I finally started spraying. I used the 1.4 tipped Vaper gun. I also used that to spray the PVA layer after the gelcoat. Whew.
Last edited by TWINRAY; 09-03-2015 at 07:24 PM.
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter