NAVY08

This car is a 1969 Corvette that I am building into a "Resto-Mod" or "Pro Street" Car will be finished with an SRIII Frame, C5 Suspension, and big wheels.

I am not concerned with originality - But I want the car to "look" stock. I will be using the factory headlights and no body or fender modifications.

"If" the front end can be fixed - for less than the cost of a replacement front clip - So far $5,000 is the lowest I have found.

I know nothing about fiberglass but I am learning. I will have little repairs I will need to do around the rest of the body.

I have already been told that it needs to be replaced - and if I need to I will... but if I can put some elbow grease in and have a pro put in the finishing touches. I will.

Here are the pictures I have so far - IF more are needed I will take them, just let me know.



















I know I will need a replacement front valance

DUB

You question is misleading...IF you do not take into account for YOUR TIME...and only material costs to fix this front clip.....then fixing it can be done. AND how do I know that it could be done. IF a person were in prison for life...and the Governor said...fix my Vette and I will give you a pardon. My @ss would be locked into the shop day and night and if it took 5 years to get it done...it would be worth it to get out of prison. SO ...it can be repaired.

Would it be faster and easier to install another clip than repairing this front clip....YES....but you did not ask that question.

So...it is about the TIME or the MONEY?

DUB

NAVY08

DUB! I was hoping you would chime in. I've seen your posts, you know your stuff.

Its honestly about the money - I have time and I want to learn. There is a reason I am building my car myself and not dropping it off at shop and writing a check. Some things like engine building, chassis building and paint I recognize are best to be left to professionals.

There is a big difference between your time (Expert body man with years experience) and my time (Novice mechanic with no body or fiberglass experience)

But I figure if I try and screw it up, I can always replace the clip later so I might as well leave it on for now.

Dean_Fuller

Fiberglass and resin is relatively inexpensive. I would at least give it a go. You want to remove "flaps" of existing glass and not try and glass them down. That does not work. Looks like the driver side is in much better shape. Try and use that as a pattern as you go. The good thing about fiberglass is you can add and remove without a lot of trouble. Use as little resin as you can get away with for a stronger, longer repair. Use some kind of "backer" to hold the shape and glass both sides. You want to "feather" the edges of the old glass so the new, when flattened, will hold strong. Its not too hard. In the end, if your not happy with it, your not out a lot of money...just lost time.

porchdog

well , if the missing piece is not there your screwed and no telling what is under all that bondo . that is a ujoint cap on there so not sure what is up with that. you are going to wish you had just bought parts. even a wheel well forward would be better. your going to use an srIII frame but a front clip is too expensive ? a used clip can be had for less than 3k .

DUB

NAVY08,

If you want or need any specific repair suggestions or opinions. Post photos of your concerned areas. Your lower valance panel area...you may want to buy that panel and install it.

If you are willing and wanting to learn how to do this...well....get ready for a serious education. BUT..as I wrote....IF you want to do this....then you WILL get it done. And if the MONEY is the issue....and time not being a concern...this can take quite a bit of time...especially once all bad areas are little investigated so see how bad they actually are. As 'porchdog' mentioned.....that one photo where all that bondo is on the right side headlight area....that can be a bit FUN once it is truly checked out to see how bad it actually is. I am not wanting to kill your motivation.....because you might need it.

DUB

NAVY08

Dean - Thanks this is what I was thinking. I have done some research on the forums and on YouTube and other places but I have no formal training.

Porchdog - I see what you mean about the cash - let me try to be more clear. I want to do as much work as I can on the project. Not strictly because its cheaper but because "I" did it. Anyone can write a check... And if I save some $$$ in the budget that can get used for say... more horsepower then

what is the ujoint cap you mentioned? I have seen the bondo on the car and I will be doing my best to eliminate as much as possible.

Thanks DUB, I will take better pictures and I will probably start small with the "easy" repairs and move on from there.

porchdog

if you attempt this repair be sure to fit all the parts while doing it. hood , bumper , headlights . you can learn more after the paint is removed.
anything is possible with glass just be sure to do it on the frame with all parts. i have fixed far worse over the years.

DUB

I would not do that myself. I would do a complete inspection of all the damaged areas. And I would start with the hardest first. Because....if you spend NUMEROUS hours on the worst repair and still can not get it right and choose to go another route...you do not feel so bad because you had repaired so many AND THEN did the worst and that one was the one that did you in.

DUB

Denpo

The collision energy dissipated into the front clip and you'll have to hunt it down.
On the pic I see a lot a thin cracks, You'll have to ground everything out.
Then around the fender what seems to be a bend, that's even more worrying, and they have to be ground out too.
Then you get a giant jigsaw that you'll have to make into a single shape. And not every shape, that's the main shape, with subtle curves and long tense line.

And then all you got as reference to align everything is the side beauty line and the door edge as reference point.
Too bad, that's usually the door that get aligned to match the front clip.
The bumper assembly is all 'floating' parts and shims to fit the shape of the clip, and not the other way around.
EDIT: ok, got carried away and forgot the front clip is still attached, disregard grayed area

Enough ranting, to make it short my grip is that not only it's a hard job, but you could also end up with something totally wrong, shapewise.
I'll use my custom rear fender flaring job as reference, it's was hard job, but I had so many hard reference points that was virtually impossible to get it wrong.
You see the difference.
So, if I was you, I'd set aside a budget of $1K, start working on other more manageable part, like the back of the car, and start looking for, let's say 6 months for a replacement.
The best place to search is probably the forum itself. Only shop I know in CA is JD Corvette in LA.

I my case, I could find a complete front clip, that came even with the firewall, the inner fender and the bumper still attached (even the accel pedal lol),
so I was sure the shape was as perfect as it could come, and still it took me a very long time (months of evening&WE time) to get aligned before gluing.
Between door gaps and hood fitment it was enough of a headache already.

That being said, I've seen enough restoration miracle to know that it's always doable.
My bag of 2c is empty

vstol

PM sent

vstol

Bob anything can be saved. As I said when we met I recommend a front clip replacement. $1200 from Mid America and $520 for the inner fenders. Cheers

DUB

I agree with you...replacing the parts is faster.....but as he wrote (post #3 , second paragraph)....it is about money and he wants to learn. And if he can not get it to where he is happy...then he can put a clip on. Much like how I was over 30 years ago....there was nothing that would not try to fix to gain the experience and knowledge.

DUB

vstol

My 2 cents after seeing the car that's all.

DUB

If the parts were unavailable...that is one thing. But if he wants to have fun with it.....heck..I am not going to stop him.

DUB

vstol

Bob if that's the path you want to go down I will guide you through it. We can pick a time where we can meet at the shop and go from there.

zwede

My suggestion: Start with the rear of the car. If, by the time you have stripped it down to 'glass and fixed all the hidden damage you will find, you still feel to tackle the front rather than replace it, go for it. My bet is by the time you get to the front you're so tired of fiberglass repairs you'll get new panels.

Dean_Fuller

I agree...My car is in NICE shape body wise BUT there is lots to fix when your trying to paint. All the small stress lines, small cracks that were filled over...I am sick of glassing already.

DUB

***** PROFESSIONAL OPINION******

Many people do their own fiberglass repairs and are successful and GLAD when they are done laminating and doing body work...the feeling of accomplishment is often times worth all the hard work....BUT....they are still GLAD it is over and done with.

With that being stated...NOW...those of you ..s.top and think that when you are done with your car...there is another one that needs it all done again. Sometimes a bit easier...sometimes much more involved. THEN...when that car is done...there is ANOTHER one waiting for your attention...and so on...and so on...and so on...

The flash forward 30 years......

TRUST ME...the way of thinking when I did that first car is one thing....when I got to car number 300+. My way of thinking changed.....as the way I look at repairs and how I can multi-task many of them at one time.

SO...if the ONLY OPTION on this car is to SAVE ALL PANELS....which he is wanting to to due to $$$$....and has mentioned Then ..as I wrote before....I would start with the worst/hardest repair first. Then each and every repair after that would seem like a vacation.

Just my views on this.

DUB

porchdog

i agree with dub. do the major repairs first . then the small stuff seems simple.
he is dead on about looking ahead . when one is done it's a relief but for us there's another one right behind it. i build early pickups to sell . now days i buy new beds and any other part that has major damage. time is money for me . besides i don't enjoy metal work , especially rust. that's why i do mostly vettes. glass don't rust !