Rebuck33

Thanks for all your help guys. Epoxy primer and 3 coats of slick sand go on tomorrow afternoon. Everything is stripped, prepped, seams redone, taped and clean! Special thanks to DUB for all the questions (some stupid I'm sure) he answered.

I will try to post some pics for you guys since the only pics so far have been of close-up cracks in old black lacquer. I probably won't be able to sleep tonight!!!

Rebuck33

Just sprayed two coats of black epoxy primer. Went on pretty nice with the devilbiss 1.3 I bought. When I saw how thick it was I thought no way, but it wasn't bad at all. I split my coveralls the first time I bent over, no big deal but still funny. I did get 2 sweat drops to roll out my gloves. I cleaned them with paper towels after it flashed. I'm waiting an hour then spraying slick sand.

DUB

Tape paper towels around your wrists to absorb eh sweat. You WILL NOT be that lucky when you are spraying the Slicksand and get a sweat drop.

AND....knowing that you have gloves on....when you go to clean up the equipment and rinse otu the gun AFTER each full coat with acetone....so it does not rock up in your paint gun.....when you are finally done.....whatever you do...do not get lacquer thinner on your sweaty hands....because it will burn like fire...and last a long time.

DUB

Rebuck33

Slick sand also went on well. I can see around the wheel wells where I must have dug into the fiberglass a little with the DA. Hopefully that all sands out tomorrow. I have the garage 75 degrees so things are drying fast.

DUB

IF not...then sand and re-apply the Slicksand again. Just try NOT to break through your Slicksand and hit your black epoxy.

DUB

Rebuck33

thanks DUB. I got three good coats of slick sand on. I'm hoping I get close to sanding out, that way I can finish with the K36 but if not, I will be running for more slick sand. It's just nice to see the car one color again. The kids were calling it my dalmatian.

syco_cop

Any pics?

Rebuck33

Pics are coming. I sanded for 14 hours yesterday. The slick sand blocked out pretty good. Just a tip for anyone who cares, I used 3M dry coat and it works really good. I also bought a dura block set that was hook and loop and that worked well also. I hit the black epoxy in a few spots but immediately stopped sanding. I would say 99.999% of everything blocked really great. That says a lot for the slick sand cause it looked bad going on. Went to church this morning and cleaned everything when we got home. Waited a few hours with the floors wet and shot 3 coats of k36. Not sure what the heck I was doing but I got some massive runs in it. I shot the slick sand perfectly but this, not so much. I must have gotten cocky! This laid nice and you could see how much better the slick sand made the body. I will be blocking all this to 320 and if it's good, no more under coats. Hope to have everything cleaned and ready for all day seal, paint and clear on Friday. Supposed to be a nice day.

Rebuck33

Here it is ready for epoxy

Rebuck33

Then following the black epoxy.... Sort of looks Mad Max'ish...

Rebuck33

Then 3 coats of slick sand

Rebuck33

Finally took the butchering hooks down! Not sure how we forgot about them in the first place but they made it through the first two paint processes. Here is where we are currently with 3 coats of Prima K36 high build primer. I hope to have things sanded and ready for sealer, paint and clear on Friday.

DUB

I KNOW you did not ask but I just have to 'sound off' on these two major issues ....in my opinion.

OBVIOUSLY...I am only looking at photos....BUT....I would HIGHLY advise that when you use safety stands...placing them UNDER the suspension points is best. Having the front safety stand being so far back on the frame is allowing the frame with the engine weight to sag. Which is not a good thing for any extended period of time.

I ALWAYS place my safety stands under the wide section of the brake rotor...making sure the lug nuts are holding the rotor true if the rivets have been removed. This way...the car does not know that it is not having wheels on it...and it does not matter if I raise it a foot or two feet....the car is still riding on the suspension. AND YES...I am completely aware that when you are installing the REAR safety stands....due to the curvature of the suspension....when lowering the car slowly...you may need to tap on the safety stand to allow them to SLIDE OUTWARDS and still stay flat.

And so there is no confusion....I am placing the saddle of my safety stand UNDER the WIDE area where the parking brakes push against when used....and the notched shaft of the safety stand is almost touching your brake friction surface where you brake pads ride on the OUTER Surface. And NOT the end of the rotor itself where you can see the vent slots..

The other things is that I hope you plan on removing the bumpers or did remove them during this process. The possibility of 'bridging' is highly likely and or you can create a ridge that you do not want do to the primers are not going around the edge of the panel and onto the flanges.

Other than that....looking really good so far.

DUB

Rebuck33

hey DUB. Thanks again for the input. I thought for a long time about removing the bumpers. I busted 5 out of 8 bolts on the rear spoiler and two on the front. There is a minor gap across the front bumper and the back gets covered with the spoiler. I do understand this may not be judgement quality but it's a decision I made. I have been watching the front bumper gap each coat and it hasn't bridged yet as I was afraid it would and I would be forced to remove it.

Dave Tracy

I know how this project drives you to get things done. You indicated you wanted to be done with the sanding by Friday. I go by the motto "The most important step in a project is what you are doing right now." Take your time and make sure you like the contours and the straightness of the surfaces. You may need to build some more areas up with more coats of the K36. You don't want to go backwards. The paint is not a build coat. My $.02 and good luck.

Rebuck33

Thanks for the reminder! I need that some times. I may look into loosening the bumper as DUB has suggested. I appreciate everyone's help here. Thanks again.

randy ransome

I'm with Dub, if you're going to all this time and material to do a correct paint job you should reconsider about the removal of the bumpers...


Good Luck

Rebuck33

Well I spent all day painting! Got some runs, some dirt, two water drops from somewhere but all in all its not terrible. I will start to color sand tomorrow. How can I be sure it's hard enough to start sanding? I heard this concept 2002 can stay a little soft for a while before rocking up. I want to thank everyone for all the help to get me this far. Right at the end of this project my daughter got really sick. MRI and CAT scans said bone cancer but the surgery yesterday said possibly infection, they couldn't get a hold of an biopsy that looked like cancer. My daughter loves this car, she 11, and really doesn't care if the bumpers were removed or not. I want to quickly wrap this up and drive her around as we wait to see if the infection they think she has grows from the biopsy taken. If it grows in a dish in a lab, then it's not cancer but a nasty infection but one that we can fight! From the culture, antibiotics can then be given and the bone scrapped and ground clean. Thanks again for everything guys, especially DUB and his buddy Mike. I called Mike this morning and he walked me thur some stuff to get going.

Dt86

The car looks great! Nice job. I sincerely hope for the best for your daughter. I couldn't imagine how difficult that must be having two of my own. Wilł keep her and your family in my thoughts and prayers.

DUB

Matt,

The car looks GREAT ...but it actually is quite senseless to comment on it when your daughter health take priority. AS I wrote before to you in our PM's...I hope all goes well with the results and your daughters future recovery. This is DEFINITELY in my head and I am PRAYING that all goes well for you and your family.

DUB