8valve

I have a 79 Coupe that I just finished painting Corvette Competition Yellow, It looks super.

However the door handles and key lock is chrome and in my opinion will not look good. I would rather see them satin Black. I doubt paint will hold up on the door handle paddle where you push down to open. I am wondering about having them powder coated satin Black ???

I am open to suggestions on making them black that will stand usage.

Thanks
8Valve

DUB

Lock cylinder caps are going to be REALLY FUN to get to last. They will for a while...but count on dealing with them in the future.

AS for the handles...I would send them out to get the chrome stripped off of them. Then if powdercoating or getting them plated in black chrome may be an option. These handles may need to be completely disassembled...which is FUN in itself.

Trying to apply something that will stand usage is tricky. You can do all you can think of and have a problem in the future and have to deal with it again.

DUB

8valve

Dub;Thanks for the reply. My 95 Vette has black door handles. Do you know what the coating is thats put on at the factory ? Now 20 years old, they look perfect .

8Valve

DUB

(In my opinion) You can not compare the door handles of your 95 to the handles of your 69-82.. You lift up on the handle of you 1995 where you do not see it...unlike the flap you must press down on every time you want to get in on a 69-82.

Any paint you shoot on these 69-82 door handles more than likely will need to be touched up in time. Trying to have coating that is bulletproof and NEVER will need any attention...I do not know of anything at all.

DUB

8valve

Dub, Thank You. I think the best is to just leave them chrome. I dont want a headache

8Valve

Dt86

I think that's your best bet. Door handles aren't something I'd want to have to remove again.

TWINRAY

^ Again? I didn't like removing mine on the '69 and the '67 the first time!

DUB

FOR WHAT IT IS WORTH:

Not knowing what was done ( stripped all the way down or painted on other paint) and what was sprayed...and how much material has been applied to your Corvette.

I can 'say' this. When the person is installing the door lock cylinders they BETTER make sure that the lock cylinder slides into the special cut-out easily and NOT binding or catching on the inner edges of the hole due to paint build up.....BECAUSE.....It is HIGHLY LIKELY that it may need to be immediately removed again and modified due to NOW the door has MUCH MORE paint and primer on it in this area. AND....knowing that GM's paint jobs back then were thin....this NEW added material NOW makes the panel THICKER at the lock cylinder.,.....SO.....

When you go to install the tension 'C' clip to hold it....it could be a ROYAL PAIN to get it to cage CORRECTLY due to added thickness in the door.....AND...this means you have to modify the 'C' clip AND or remove the lock cylinder and file back on the lands where the 'C' clip catches so it will go in and be able to be clipped in place WITHOUT EXCESSIVE pressure/tension.

And the reason I am writing this is IF you get the lock cylinder in and get it clipped AND it is under a lot of tension...AND you do not bust or crack your door doing so. DO NOT be surprised that one day you might see that the clear that WAS UNDER the lock cylinder stainless bezel has now been SMOOSHED out from under it and you have a bulge of clear right at the outer diameter of the lock cylinder bezel. One again...depends on what was used and HOW much was applied.

The SAME holds true for your outside door handle if you tighten the heck out of it. ALONG with any part that attaches to an exterior painted surface...emblems, antenna bezel, license plate bezel, luggage rack, rear T-top catch area, and side mirrors.

NOW...not to freak anyone out....this has a lot to do with the type of clear ( they are NOT all the same)....the amount of cure time before parts are installed and HOW MUCH was applied and if it has been force cured or not.

DUB

RBrid

As usual DUB, thanks for the info. I read your input every single day. Just out of curiosity, is naturally cured clear more "pressure-sensitive", or force cured clear? Thanks.