BobG74

1974 T Top Prepping for paint

Just removed stainless trim and weatherstripping, patienience is key to process. Have a few questions:













1. What is the black tar like sealant? Is it available? Is there a better substitute?



2. The rivets I drilled out (4 om window side of each top) rattle. Any tips on how to remove?

3. I count 20 holes and plastic tees, Why do vendors show 18 or 19 hole weatherstrip? Can I reuse the plastic tees?

4. I will be replacing all weatherstrip, any recommendations on what weatherstrip material to use? Is new stuff better than original latex?

5. Are the tool sets worth it ? seems like my putty knives will work.

6. Any preference on black or yellow glue?

7. In photo 2 shows a piece of foam tape is that available?

8. How long should I wait after painting before applying new weatherstrip? It will be cold in Md soon, should be painted in ~ 2 weeks. Door weatherstrip needed to drive home. I can wait on other stuff.




thanks in advance for comments

Bg

DUB

YES.. a good non hardening sealant is what I use.

YES...you have drill a hole in the fiberglass and get them out and then fill in the hole.

YES..you will need to re-use one of them.

Every company that makes these weatherstrips...at least so far....are not right. If you get latex weatherstrips....my main concern is the 'spine' of the weatherstrips where these plastic 't' pins go. If this 'spine' is too thick...it can effect how the T-top goes on. AND...if you use Corvette Rubber Company's T-top weatherstrip....there 'spine' is non existent...thus...it is easy to tear the weatherstrip or literally push the pin right through the weatherstrips due to not having any strength in this area. There is a company making the latex weatherstrips and I am slowly getting in these pieces to test and see how good they are. AS soon as I am satisfied with them...I will recommend them...but as for right now...I am not sticking my neck out on this one.

Do not know what you mean about 'tool sets'????

Some like the yellow...some like the black. Whatever you want...unless you are worried about any judging.

I can not see what you are talking about. If it is between the weatherstrips tack where it attaches to the other stainless trim...you can use 'truck bed camper seal' and cut what you need or go to a home improvement store and see what they ahve. It is NOT specific to this area...it is only a foam tape. Closed cell preferably.

Can not answer this question due to way too many variables...it ll depends on when the paint is dry enough so you can install it. A few days or a few weeks...it is hard to tell you how long to wait.

DUB

BobG74

Thanks Dub,

Your answers give what I need to march on. Thanks for sharing your expertise and taking the time to respond.

I have found that the prep process is far more complex and time consuming that I anticipated. I now have a full understanding of the effort and costs associated with a legit paint job.

bg

DUB

KEEP THIS IN MIND!!!!!

IF you are going to prime the T-tops very well...seal them....then apply a basecoat and clearcoat to them....

When you go and TRY to re-install the stainless trim at the front.....this added material you have applied to the T-top....can POSSIBLY cause for you to have a problem getting the trim to slide back on and NOT peel back clear....OR....cause the clear to bubble up at the edge of this trim when it gets hot and is curing out in the future.

Just 'saying'...because this has BIT me before....and I have a way to greatly increase my odds so I can get the trim on without peeling back clear and NOT have the clear bubble out from under the trim in time. Just make sure the T-top is really dry...which means for me that I use my infra-red heater and bake the paint for days on end. Heat applied and taken away...and repeated countless times.

The sealant that I use is CRL 7708 and/or CRL 1716.

DUB

BobG74

Thanks DUB I'll wait on installing the trim & maybe test fit without forcing it. Also you can add clairvoyance to your many talents, as I had no clue what sealant to use. Planned to research it later, thanks for saving me the time / effort.

bg

DUB

No...I simply read and comprehended what you wrote in your first question on this thread. I just came back with the part numbers because I did not have them at home when I responded initially.

You will more than likely need to spread the trim further apart so it is not so tight. that is what I do. I use a 'somewhat' common tool for it. If you stop and think about it...you more than likely have it in your tool box.

DUB

BobG74

DUB,

Just read Rebuck33 post and it puts all this stuff on the back shelf. Prayers and best wishes for Rebuck33 & daughter.

That said I was up all night thinking about my tool box, I have some big screw drivers that might fit the bill, but I also have some wooden wedges and when forced in the trim they feel pretty nice, (wedge made from 2"x8" PT pine). I plan to measure the top and the trim gap and then cut a wedge to fit. If possible I will wait for clear to go rock hard before putting the tops back together (I cant think of a reason why I cant wait).

I removed the weatherstrip from doors and they still shut nice. Think I can get away with driving home form paint shop (~ 20 miles) with out strip in doors?

Note just received weatherstrip (Willcox) came with plastic tees installed.


bg

DUB

My prayers and thoughts for Rebuck33, his daughter and family.

I know many people who need a 'reality check' and walk the halls of a hospital...because they are so caught up in trivial crap that actually means nothing at all when you get right down to it.

SENT you a PM.

YES...you can drive it with no weatherstrip on the doors. No damage should occur if the door is set correctly and NOT allows to go to far inwards when the door is being shut.

DUB