Material to use for trunk/deck lid gap closure?
11-02-2015, 05:56 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Material to use for trunk/deck lid gap closure?
Good afternoon fellas,
Would Evercoat's VPA be a good material to use for closing the gaps on the body side of the panel gaps? I'm shooting for a 1/4" consistent gap for my trunk lid and deck lid where now I have up to 3/8" of a gap. So looking to close it up 1/8" or so... Just out of curiosity, what is the max depth/thickness recommended for that type of filler? If there is a better product for this application I would appreciate any input. Thanks a bunch, Ed
Would Evercoat's VPA be a good material to use for closing the gaps on the body side of the panel gaps? I'm shooting for a 1/4" consistent gap for my trunk lid and deck lid where now I have up to 3/8" of a gap. So looking to close it up 1/8" or so... Just out of curiosity, what is the max depth/thickness recommended for that type of filler? If there is a better product for this application I would appreciate any input. Thanks a bunch, Ed
11-03-2015, 07:27 AM
#2
Ed,
Evercoat VPA is a great product (check the bottom date code) for closing gaps in some situations. I PERSONALLY only use VPA for gaps if the panel thickness is sufficient. Some areas around the front fender are very thin and I first laminated these to build edge thickness.
Kevin
Evercoat VPA is a great product (check the bottom date code) for closing gaps in some situations. I PERSONALLY only use VPA for gaps if the panel thickness is sufficient. Some areas around the front fender are very thin and I first laminated these to build edge thickness.
Kevin
11-03-2015, 12:47 PM
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
Ed,
Evercoat VPA is a great product (check the bottom date code) for closing gaps in some situations. I PERSONALLY only use VPA for gaps if the panel thickness is sufficient. Some areas around the front fender are very thin and I first laminated these to build edge thickness.
Kevin
Evercoat VPA is a great product (check the bottom date code) for closing gaps in some situations. I PERSONALLY only use VPA for gaps if the panel thickness is sufficient. Some areas around the front fender are very thin and I first laminated these to build edge thickness.
Kevin
Thanks again, Ed
11-03-2015, 01:26 PM
#4
Ed,
I would think in terms of ratio of material added to the ratio of panel thickness rather than a "flat" 1/8", 3/16", 1/4" buildup. It also will depend somewhat if you are adding to the door skin or jamb as the door skin probably has more stress over the years from being slammed shut.
I put some VPA on some old panels with no prep(test) and it still holds very well. The first two letters on VPA 05 would mean 2015. I had a local supplier that ordered three cans in before they got one in date. This could be more of an issue than the thickness if not caught and old material was used.
Kevin
I would think in terms of ratio of material added to the ratio of panel thickness rather than a "flat" 1/8", 3/16", 1/4" buildup. It also will depend somewhat if you are adding to the door skin or jamb as the door skin probably has more stress over the years from being slammed shut.
I put some VPA on some old panels with no prep(test) and it still holds very well. The first two letters on VPA 05 would mean 2015. I had a local supplier that ordered three cans in before they got one in date. This could be more of an issue than the thickness if not caught and old material was used.
Kevin
11-03-2015, 05:32 PM
#5
Race Director
WELL....Not much for me to add due to the information provided is quite accurate. (in my opinion)
I will add this. I add to the body panel that does not move 95% of the time. So if I am wanting to get gaps around a trunk lid correct...I would more than likely apply the VPA to the main body panel and not the trunk lid.....BUT......there is still a 5% chance that I WOULD apply it to the edge of the trunk lid....as long as the trunk lid is made in a way for me to be able to prep it correctly and KNOW that the VPA will not 'shluff off' in time. ....OR if I did apply the VPA to close in the gap....it would take a long time in getting the transition of the build out to look correct in the trunk jamb.
Building out 1/8" in the trunk jamb is not problem at all....and it would be no problem if done to the trunk lid....but the prep on the trunk lid would be a bit more involved to make sure it sticks like heck due to you tapering the edge on both sides.
*****ADDED INFORMATION RELATED TO GAPS******
AND...not knowing if we had touched base on this or not.....BUT....if you are going to be critical about your gaps...and plan on applying gelcoat, polyester primer and 'whatever'. If would be wise that during your bodywork stage you stop and take time to shoot up a test panel JUST LIKE how you plan on shooting the car and treat this test panel just like if it was your car. SO...no pounding product on the panel to get it done. Treat it just like you car....so you can measure how much material you are applying....(for example: from gelcoat to clearcoat).SO...you will know how much material you are adding to the body and 'possibly' adding to your gap areas if you make a conscience effort to apply these products to your gap areas....which would close them up further.
DUB
I will add this. I add to the body panel that does not move 95% of the time. So if I am wanting to get gaps around a trunk lid correct...I would more than likely apply the VPA to the main body panel and not the trunk lid.....BUT......there is still a 5% chance that I WOULD apply it to the edge of the trunk lid....as long as the trunk lid is made in a way for me to be able to prep it correctly and KNOW that the VPA will not 'shluff off' in time. ....OR if I did apply the VPA to close in the gap....it would take a long time in getting the transition of the build out to look correct in the trunk jamb.
Building out 1/8" in the trunk jamb is not problem at all....and it would be no problem if done to the trunk lid....but the prep on the trunk lid would be a bit more involved to make sure it sticks like heck due to you tapering the edge on both sides.
*****ADDED INFORMATION RELATED TO GAPS******
AND...not knowing if we had touched base on this or not.....BUT....if you are going to be critical about your gaps...and plan on applying gelcoat, polyester primer and 'whatever'. If would be wise that during your bodywork stage you stop and take time to shoot up a test panel JUST LIKE how you plan on shooting the car and treat this test panel just like if it was your car. SO...no pounding product on the panel to get it done. Treat it just like you car....so you can measure how much material you are applying....(for example: from gelcoat to clearcoat).SO...you will know how much material you are adding to the body and 'possibly' adding to your gap areas if you make a conscience effort to apply these products to your gap areas....which would close them up further.
DUB
11-03-2015, 06:25 PM
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
WELL....Not much for me to add due to the information provided is quite accurate. (in my opinion)
I will add this. I add to the body panel that does not move 95% of the time. So if I am wanting to get gaps around a trunk lid correct...I would more than likely apply the VPA to the main body panel and not the trunk lid.....BUT......there is still a 5% chance that I WOULD apply it to the edge of the trunk lid....as long as the trunk lid is made in a way for me to be able to prep it correctly and KNOW that the VPA will not 'shluff off' in time. ....OR if I did apply the VPA to close in the gap....it would take a long time in getting the transition of the build out to look correct in the trunk jamb.
Building out 1/8" in the trunk jamb is not problem at all....and it would be no problem if done to the trunk lid....but the prep on the trunk lid would be a bit more involved to make sure it sticks like heck due to you tapering the edge on both sides.
*****ADDED INFORMATION RELATED TO GAPS******
AND...not knowing if we had touched base on this or not.....BUT....if you are going to be critical about your gaps...and plan on applying gelcoat, polyester primer and 'whatever'. If would be wise that during your bodywork stage you stop and take time to shoot up a test panel JUST LIKE how you plan on shooting the car and treat this test panel just like if it was your car. SO...no pounding product on the panel to get it done. Treat it just like you car....so you can measure how much material you are applying....(for example: from gelcoat to clearcoat).SO...you will know how much material you are adding to the body and 'possibly' adding to your gap areas if you make a conscience effort to apply these products to your gap areas....which would close them up further.
DUB
I will add this. I add to the body panel that does not move 95% of the time. So if I am wanting to get gaps around a trunk lid correct...I would more than likely apply the VPA to the main body panel and not the trunk lid.....BUT......there is still a 5% chance that I WOULD apply it to the edge of the trunk lid....as long as the trunk lid is made in a way for me to be able to prep it correctly and KNOW that the VPA will not 'shluff off' in time. ....OR if I did apply the VPA to close in the gap....it would take a long time in getting the transition of the build out to look correct in the trunk jamb.
Building out 1/8" in the trunk jamb is not problem at all....and it would be no problem if done to the trunk lid....but the prep on the trunk lid would be a bit more involved to make sure it sticks like heck due to you tapering the edge on both sides.
*****ADDED INFORMATION RELATED TO GAPS******
AND...not knowing if we had touched base on this or not.....BUT....if you are going to be critical about your gaps...and plan on applying gelcoat, polyester primer and 'whatever'. If would be wise that during your bodywork stage you stop and take time to shoot up a test panel JUST LIKE how you plan on shooting the car and treat this test panel just like if it was your car. SO...no pounding product on the panel to get it done. Treat it just like you car....so you can measure how much material you are applying....(for example: from gelcoat to clearcoat).SO...you will know how much material you are adding to the body and 'possibly' adding to your gap areas if you make a conscience effort to apply these products to your gap areas....which would close them up further.
DUB
) it appears that one side of it was left untrimmed... meaning it is quite a bit wider on the lip to brace than the other side.... So I will be trimming it for an even gap on the wide side.... The good news is that the side that does not require trimming has a nice even gap of about 1/4". The area of concern is the top of the lid to the deck lid divider panel. It has about a 3/8" gap. It's adjusted so the lid follows the contour of the quarters well. This adjustment is critical in my next step... replacing the rear valance and trunk lid opening... they will be installed with the bottom lid height and gap in mind... it's great to know that VPA is the product to use, and will limit its use to the body, and not the moving panel if I can help it... Great info on considering the thickness of my primer and paint materials. I'm quite a ways off from being able to spray some test panels, but the good news is that I can always take the VPA thickness down as needed considering the added material. I'm also adding/replacing the quarters with the wider GTS panels.
The project that really concerns me is the replacement of the drivers side front pillar panel... getting it set correctly.... doing tons of measurements, and using the existing dash panel mating surfaces as a guide... It seems like a simple enough process, but just scares the h#ll out of me making sure it's set correctly... Dub, when I get to that, I'll surely hit you up with some photos and seek any tips you may have in accomplishing that. Thank you! Ed
11-03-2015, 06:31 PM
#7
Race Director
Glad to be of some help.
YEAH...when fitting new panels or aftermarket panels.....basically...it can go easy or be a total CLUSTER. Especially when trying to get it RIGHT.
DUB
YEAH...when fitting new panels or aftermarket panels.....basically...it can go easy or be a total CLUSTER. Especially when trying to get it RIGHT.
DUB