Fiberglass un-bonded from cross member
11-11-2015, 03:13 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Fiberglass un-bonded from cross member
In asking this question, I am referencing the front of the car, the area directly BEHIND the headlight openings to the FRONT of the hood opening, a area roughly 8 inches wide running the width of the nose.
That area from the center line of the car to the passenger side has come un-bonded to the cross member below. I can push it down 3/16" until it contacts the cross member and then is solid, only to come back up when hand pressure is removed. The left side is still bonded to the cross member. Actually its not to noticeable as its a entire area. However it creates a serious problem.
The drivers side headlight door opens fine. The passenger side headlight door only opens about 1.50" and then contacts the raised area. I have to hold down the raised, un-bonded panel to allow the headlight door to clear. I have the headlight adjustments as far as they will go and it still hits.
Anyone have any suggestions how to get that body piece back down and bonded again ? I was thinking a piece of woven roving slid in and then Epoxy resin injected to soak the woven roving, then a 40 pound bag of wood pellets for a few days. I am open to all suggestions.
Thanks
8Valve
That area from the center line of the car to the passenger side has come un-bonded to the cross member below. I can push it down 3/16" until it contacts the cross member and then is solid, only to come back up when hand pressure is removed. The left side is still bonded to the cross member. Actually its not to noticeable as its a entire area. However it creates a serious problem.
The drivers side headlight door opens fine. The passenger side headlight door only opens about 1.50" and then contacts the raised area. I have to hold down the raised, un-bonded panel to allow the headlight door to clear. I have the headlight adjustments as far as they will go and it still hits.
Anyone have any suggestions how to get that body piece back down and bonded again ? I was thinking a piece of woven roving slid in and then Epoxy resin injected to soak the woven roving, then a 40 pound bag of wood pellets for a few days. I am open to all suggestions.
Thanks
8Valve
11-11-2015, 05:53 PM
#2
Race Director
WHAT YEAR?
Because they are different in how they are bonded.
YES..you idea will work if you are looking for a 'quick fix'...BUT....that also depends on the condition of the surfaces that you plan on having the epoxy touch. If these surfaces are rusty, dirty, dusty and contaminated...then ...the epoxy may hold for a short while. SO...getting these surfaces prepped for maximum adhesion is important.
And if only one side is coming up. Then it is up to you if you want to get into a serious process...or just inject some glue in and let it ride.
DUB
Because they are different in how they are bonded.
YES..you idea will work if you are looking for a 'quick fix'...BUT....that also depends on the condition of the surfaces that you plan on having the epoxy touch. If these surfaces are rusty, dirty, dusty and contaminated...then ...the epoxy may hold for a short while. SO...getting these surfaces prepped for maximum adhesion is important.
And if only one side is coming up. Then it is up to you if you want to get into a serious process...or just inject some glue in and let it ride.
DUB
11-11-2015, 06:27 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
DUB;
Thanks for the reply
The car is a 1979. What process woudl you recommend. I want it to hold and be right.
8Valve
Thanks for the reply
The car is a 1979. What process woudl you recommend. I want it to hold and be right.
8Valve
WHAT YEAR?
Because they are different in how they are bonded.
YES..you idea will work if you are looking for a 'quick fix'...BUT....that also depends on the condition of the surfaces that you plan on having the epoxy touch. If these surfaces are rusty, dirty, dusty and contaminated...then ...the epoxy may hold for a short while. SO...getting these surfaces prepped for maximum adhesion is important.
And if only one side is coming up. Then it is up to you if you want to get into a serious process...or just inject some glue in and let it ride.
DUB
Because they are different in how they are bonded.
YES..you idea will work if you are looking for a 'quick fix'...BUT....that also depends on the condition of the surfaces that you plan on having the epoxy touch. If these surfaces are rusty, dirty, dusty and contaminated...then ...the epoxy may hold for a short while. SO...getting these surfaces prepped for maximum adhesion is important.
And if only one side is coming up. Then it is up to you if you want to get into a serious process...or just inject some glue in and let it ride.
DUB
11-11-2015, 07:35 PM
#4
Race Director
The support for your year model uses a 2 part epoxy style adhesive.
Answering your question on 'what process i would recommend' is tricky.
if you were paying me to do this at my shop. I would have to remove the support and re-bond it back in even though the other side is still holding. I could not take the chance that it lets loose and then have to deal with the other side...and you looking at me like I am a 'doofus' and I 'should have known' that it was going to let loose because I work on Corvettes every day. Sorry..I do not have a crystal ball....and YES ..can't you tell I have been down this road before doing only one half of the beam.
Removing the support beam is VERY time consuming...versus the 'other' method. Minutes versus hours and or days of time difference. So...it depends on how much time you want to invest in this process. And this also then will possibly involve in some parts that may need to be replaced during this process.
DUB
Answering your question on 'what process i would recommend' is tricky.
if you were paying me to do this at my shop. I would have to remove the support and re-bond it back in even though the other side is still holding. I could not take the chance that it lets loose and then have to deal with the other side...and you looking at me like I am a 'doofus' and I 'should have known' that it was going to let loose because I work on Corvettes every day. Sorry..I do not have a crystal ball....and YES ..can't you tell I have been down this road before doing only one half of the beam.
Removing the support beam is VERY time consuming...versus the 'other' method. Minutes versus hours and or days of time difference. So...it depends on how much time you want to invest in this process. And this also then will possibly involve in some parts that may need to be replaced during this process.
DUB
11-11-2015, 08:26 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thanks Dub;
Without question removing the bean and re-bonding is the proper way/best job. I have no problem with the re-bonding. My problem/concern is liberating the bond on the drivers side which is good. I fear doing damage and getting in even deeper. I believe I will go with the "other" way and hope the drivers side holds. Understand, Epoxy 2 part type adhesive. Thank You, I appreciate your help/knowledge
8Valve
Without question removing the bean and re-bonding is the proper way/best job. I have no problem with the re-bonding. My problem/concern is liberating the bond on the drivers side which is good. I fear doing damage and getting in even deeper. I believe I will go with the "other" way and hope the drivers side holds. Understand, Epoxy 2 part type adhesive. Thank You, I appreciate your help/knowledge
8Valve
The support for your year model uses a 2 part epoxy style adhesive.
Answering your question on 'what process i would recommend' is tricky.
if you were paying me to do this at my shop. I would have to remove the support and re-bond it back in even though the other side is still holding. I could not take the chance that it lets loose and then have to deal with the other side...and you looking at me like I am a 'doofus' and I 'should have known' that it was going to let loose because I work on Corvettes every day. Sorry..I do not have a crystal ball....and YES ..can't you tell I have been down this road before doing only one half of the beam.
Removing the support beam is VERY time consuming...versus the 'other' method. Minutes versus hours and or days of time difference. So...it depends on how much time you want to invest in this process. And this also then will possibly involve in some parts that may need to be replaced during this process.
DUB
Answering your question on 'what process i would recommend' is tricky.
if you were paying me to do this at my shop. I would have to remove the support and re-bond it back in even though the other side is still holding. I could not take the chance that it lets loose and then have to deal with the other side...and you looking at me like I am a 'doofus' and I 'should have known' that it was going to let loose because I work on Corvettes every day. Sorry..I do not have a crystal ball....and YES ..can't you tell I have been down this road before doing only one half of the beam.
Removing the support beam is VERY time consuming...versus the 'other' method. Minutes versus hours and or days of time difference. So...it depends on how much time you want to invest in this process. And this also then will possibly involve in some parts that may need to be replaced during this process.
DUB
11-12-2015, 05:08 PM
#6
Race Director
Thanks Dub;
Without question removing the bean and re-bonding is the proper way/best job. I have no problem with the re-bonding. My problem/concern is liberating the bond on the drivers side which is good. I fear doing damage and getting in even deeper. I believe I will go with the "other" way and hope the drivers side holds. Understand, Epoxy 2 part type adhesive. Thank You, I appreciate your help/knowledge
8Valve
Without question removing the bean and re-bonding is the proper way/best job. I have no problem with the re-bonding. My problem/concern is liberating the bond on the drivers side which is good. I fear doing damage and getting in even deeper. I believe I will go with the "other" way and hope the drivers side holds. Understand, Epoxy 2 part type adhesive. Thank You, I appreciate your help/knowledge
8Valve
DUB
11-12-2015, 10:04 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Thank You, great info. Did nto know about heat.
8Valve
QUOTE=DUB;1590892158]HEAT,,,when applied to the metal support on the areas where it is bonded....will soften the adhesive where it is still bonded...and using wedges to apply pressure to the metal support...it will come off. THAT is how it has to be taken off without any damage.
DUB[/QUOTE]
8Valve
QUOTE=DUB;1590892158]HEAT,,,when applied to the metal support on the areas where it is bonded....will soften the adhesive where it is still bonded...and using wedges to apply pressure to the metal support...it will come off. THAT is how it has to be taken off without any damage.
DUB[/QUOTE]