Delamination
11-26-2015, 07:29 PM
#1
Delamination
Hello
I own a 1989 Z51 with a manual transmission. The car was hit and the side view mirror was messed up so bad I replaced the door. The new door is not closing flush. How do I get it to pull in so that it is flush. And the hood is delaminating. The driver side where the car was hit. As the hood becomes the fender and goes to the battery. The skin is in two pieces. Iwant to glue them together. Any suggestions. I have a couple of ideas but you guys/gals may have better ones.
Thank you
Joe
I own a 1989 Z51 with a manual transmission. The car was hit and the side view mirror was messed up so bad I replaced the door. The new door is not closing flush. How do I get it to pull in so that it is flush. And the hood is delaminating. The driver side where the car was hit. As the hood becomes the fender and goes to the battery. The skin is in two pieces. Iwant to glue them together. Any suggestions. I have a couple of ideas but you guys/gals may have better ones.
Thank you
Joe
11-27-2015, 06:01 PM
#2
Race Director
Not closing flush where???? You did not state where. At the rear of the door or by the hood???
Photos are a must....because I am advising you BLIND and can not see what you can see.
AS for bonding the hood...once again good photos of it being separated would be helpful. But I would use LORD FUSOR adhesive to bond the hood back together. This might be something you might want to take it to a body shop.... due to some of the current adhesives require a special gun to apply it and the cost of the gun can be quite expensive for a one time use. I believe that LORD FUSOR is re-formatting there product containers so a normal caulking gun can be used and not a special gun. I have all the guns for the stuff out there so it is no big deal for me.
There are other adhesives that would work....but using them is your call. They can be purchased at a hardware store or auto parts store. The adhesive has to be able to bond SMC to SMC.
DUB
Photos are a must....because I am advising you BLIND and can not see what you can see.
AS for bonding the hood...once again good photos of it being separated would be helpful. But I would use LORD FUSOR adhesive to bond the hood back together. This might be something you might want to take it to a body shop.... due to some of the current adhesives require a special gun to apply it and the cost of the gun can be quite expensive for a one time use. I believe that LORD FUSOR is re-formatting there product containers so a normal caulking gun can be used and not a special gun. I have all the guns for the stuff out there so it is no big deal for me.
There are other adhesives that would work....but using them is your call. They can be purchased at a hardware store or auto parts store. The adhesive has to be able to bond SMC to SMC.
DUB
11-27-2015, 06:48 PM
#3
I had two thoughts.
1) breaking off the piece and then rebonding it to the other piece. Mainly I thought that because I could not see a way to get the adhesive all the way to the top of the separation.
Which would, maybe propagate another separation.
The other was finding a liquid epoxy that I could spray like froma paint gun. Then force the two pieces closed using a vice. I did see some of the specialized equipment you mentioned.
How do I post a phot. Oh and good question about the door, doh. The door is not flush at the door is not flush on the end where it closes. I was wondering if there was a way to move the cleet that recieves the door. Or to move the catch that the lock grabs when you close the door.
Please tell me how to post pictures and I will. I relize they would be a big help. Thank you
Joe
1) breaking off the piece and then rebonding it to the other piece. Mainly I thought that because I could not see a way to get the adhesive all the way to the top of the separation.
Which would, maybe propagate another separation.
The other was finding a liquid epoxy that I could spray like froma paint gun. Then force the two pieces closed using a vice. I did see some of the specialized equipment you mentioned.
How do I post a phot. Oh and good question about the door, doh. The door is not flush at the door is not flush on the end where it closes. I was wondering if there was a way to move the cleet that recieves the door. Or to move the catch that the lock grabs when you close the door.
Please tell me how to post pictures and I will. I relize they would be a big help. Thank you
Joe
11-28-2015, 05:22 PM
#4
Race Director
Before you go and bereak anyhting....unless you just want to make this repair harder on yoruself.
Post a photo....and where you reply to a post...look for the YELLOW square scenic view of a mountain at the top of where you type your response. You can pull a photo from your computer and post it or from a URL location.
I have to see what you have going on...simple as that. So make sure your photos reflect what you can see so I do not have to ask for more photos.
You do not shoot this type of adhesive out of a paint gun. And I am sure you have heard of a syringe...get one and NO needle is needed.....that you can quickly fill with your activated adhesive and then inject it in to the tight spots. And if you have a small spot you could not get...it will not matter.
DUB
Post a photo....and where you reply to a post...look for the YELLOW square scenic view of a mountain at the top of where you type your response. You can pull a photo from your computer and post it or from a URL location.
I have to see what you have going on...simple as that. So make sure your photos reflect what you can see so I do not have to ask for more photos.
You do not shoot this type of adhesive out of a paint gun. And I am sure you have heard of a syringe...get one and NO needle is needed.....that you can quickly fill with your activated adhesive and then inject it in to the tight spots. And if you have a small spot you could not get...it will not matter.
DUB
11-29-2015, 07:43 PM
#5
Before you go and bereak anyhting....unless you just want to make this repair harder on yoruself.
Post a photo....and where you reply to a post...look for the YELLOW square scenic view of a mountain at the top of where you type your response. You can pull a photo from your computer and post it or from a URL location.
I have to see what you have going on...simple as that. So make sure your photos reflect what you can see so I do not have to ask for more photos.
You do not shoot this type of adhesive out of a paint gun. And I am sure you have heard of a syringe...get one and NO needle is needed.....that you can quickly fill with your activated adhesive and then inject it in to the tight spots. And if you have a small spot you could not get...it will not matter.
DUB
Post a photo....and where you reply to a post...look for the YELLOW square scenic view of a mountain at the top of where you type your response. You can pull a photo from your computer and post it or from a URL location.
I have to see what you have going on...simple as that. So make sure your photos reflect what you can see so I do not have to ask for more photos.
You do not shoot this type of adhesive out of a paint gun. And I am sure you have heard of a syringe...get one and NO needle is needed.....that you can quickly fill with your activated adhesive and then inject it in to the tight spots. And if you have a small spot you could not get...it will not matter.
DUB
This is the door I installed on the car
This is as closed as the door will go. Even If I lift it and close the door it will not go flush
After more careful examination I think that this is just the paint coming off. I broke a piece off the car and it looks like paint. Does anyone know about how thick the paint is ?
Thank you all.
11-30-2015, 05:27 PM
#6
Race Director
Thanks for the door photos.
Honestly...the door is NOT closing all the way. The reason I KNOW this is because the striker bolt in the jamb does not adjust.....and the latch mechanism that bolts to the door does NOT adjust....so...knowing that the two point are 'what they are'...the door is not closing all the way. I would open up the door and VERIFY by manually latching the door mechanism with a screwdriver and making sure that the latch goes all the way....AND not stop on the first catch.
The photo of the hood delamination is partially helpful...because as I wrote...I need to see what you see. This mean pointing out or marking on the panel where the delamination stops. Also a side angle because from the view you took of the damage...it is hard to tell if you have damage at the wheel well lip area.
I am assuming that the car is white....and this is a factory hood.
AS for the thickness of the paint chip you have...once again ...take a photo of its thickness with a dime right beside it for reference...so i can see the thickness of your paint chip and the thickness of the dime. Factory paint jobs are not thick...but I do not know what your'thick' is versus my 'thick'.
DUB
Honestly...the door is NOT closing all the way. The reason I KNOW this is because the striker bolt in the jamb does not adjust.....and the latch mechanism that bolts to the door does NOT adjust....so...knowing that the two point are 'what they are'...the door is not closing all the way. I would open up the door and VERIFY by manually latching the door mechanism with a screwdriver and making sure that the latch goes all the way....AND not stop on the first catch.
The photo of the hood delamination is partially helpful...because as I wrote...I need to see what you see. This mean pointing out or marking on the panel where the delamination stops. Also a side angle because from the view you took of the damage...it is hard to tell if you have damage at the wheel well lip area.
I am assuming that the car is white....and this is a factory hood.
AS for the thickness of the paint chip you have...once again ...take a photo of its thickness with a dime right beside it for reference...so i can see the thickness of your paint chip and the thickness of the dime. Factory paint jobs are not thick...but I do not know what your'thick' is versus my 'thick'.
DUB