Paint/Body Corvette Materials, Techniques, and How To

removing rear window seal/ weatherstripping.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 06-06-2016, 08:17 AM
  #1  
augiedoggy
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
augiedoggy's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2007
Location: North tonawanda NY
Posts: 4,223
Received 828 Likes on 660 Posts

Default removing rear window seal/ weatherstripping.

This may seem like a silly question but I was able to remove all my weathertripping except the rear window pillar strips so far. are they screwed in with the phillips screws or are they riveted? I cannot seem to locate a head on the screws with a screwdriver and the condition of the access hole does not allow me to see inside very well.

Ive been working on the car for weeks correcting gaps and correcting previous body repairs as best as I can and have to say its really a lot of time consuming work. I used a whole quart of VPA on this car! the aftermarket hood had a big gap along one fender which appeared to have been grafted on from another car and the fiberglass bumpers did not line up very well without help.. I have noticed this job has gotten more expensive as I have gone along due to me getting more and more picky about what im going to do and a serious case of "while im at it" which is good really.. I know these arent the greatest pictures but I did remove all previous fillers and paints from all ares covered with VPA or fiberglass.

I did make one apparently huge mistake and that was sodablasting my door jamb hing area prior To rebushing the hinges and reapplying seam sealer.

I recently saw a thread here suggesting that the sodium bicarbonate may be bad for the fiberglass/ paintwork which I could not find anything more on with google searches and this has me nervous..I have blown off and vacuumed the car and intend on rinsing and washing it prior to letting it dry and spraying the epoxy primer before the poly filler primer and sealer. The car will be molten orange from urekem (thecoatingstore.com) with gold pearl in an intercoat so I will be doing the final spraying with the bumpers and door in place to get it even. I have only done a coupe cars so far including my last c4 which was painted in chameleon and came out great until I waited too long before the last coat of clear and had a mess to fix.

My new 18" rims should arrive today too.. getting very excited.

I just realized these are pretty terrible pictures that dont show much but the car was hurting bad from at least 3 previous paint jobs and multiple body repairs done with different levels of care and skill...and the rear quarter damage from some kid backing into me last summer You could see that area had some previos damage and fillers applied over the red paint (not original color btw) .. At least the insurance came through giving me more than enough to repair the damage myself






Last edited by augiedoggy; 06-06-2016 at 08:30 AM.
Old 06-06-2016, 05:42 PM
  #2  
DUB
Race Director
 
DUB's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2009
Location: Charlotte NC
Posts: 19,294
Received 2,713 Likes on 2,321 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by augiedoggy
This may seem like a silly question but I was able to remove all my weathertripping except the rear window pillar strips so far. are they screwed in with the phillips screws or are they riveted? I cannot seem to locate a head on the screws with a screwdriver and the condition of the access hole does not allow me to see inside very well.

I wished you posted a photo of this rear vertical weatherstrip. The bottom of the weatherstrip is pop-riveted on from the inside...and the rest of it is glued to the thin metal track that is pop riveted to the body.

Ive been working on the car for weeks correcting gaps and correcting previous body repairs as best as I can and have to say its really a lot of time consuming work. I used a whole quart of VPA on this car! the aftermarket hood had a big gap along one fender which appeared to have been grafted on from another car and the fiberglass bumpers did not line up very well without help.. I have noticed this job has gotten more expensive as I have gone along due to me getting more and more picky about what im going to do and a serious case of "while im at it" which is good really.. I know these arent the greatest pictures but I did remove all previous fillers and paints from all ares covered with VPA or fiberglass.


I am glad you wrote that. it is SO IMPORTANT that the surface is correctly prepped and calean sot eh VPA cna do teh best job for you.
I did make one apparently huge mistake and that was sodablasting my door jamb hing area prior To rebushing the hinges and reapplying seam sealer.

I recently saw a thread here suggesting that the sodium bicarbonate may be bad for the fiberglass/ paintwork which I could not find anything more on with google searches and this has me nervous..I have blown off and vacuumed the car and intend on rinsing and washing it prior to letting it dry and spraying the epoxy primer before the poly filler primer and sealer. The car will be molten orange from urekem (thecoatingstore.com) with gold pearl in an intercoat so I will be doing the final spraying with the bumpers and door in place to get it even. I have only done a coupe cars so far including my last c4 which was painted in chameleon and came out great until I waited too long before the last coat of clear and had a mess to fix.

YES...even though I am not a fan of getting the body wet with water when the SMC is exposed. In this case of making sure the soda blasting stuff is off ...well it just has to be done....and once you have it wet...might as well REALLY wash it several times to make sure it is clean.

My new 18" rims should arrive today too.. getting very excited.

I just realized these are pretty terrible pictures that dont show much but the car was hurting bad from at least 3 previous paint jobs and multiple body repairs done with different levels of care and skill...and the rear quarter damage from some kid backing into me last summer You could see that area had some previos damage and fillers applied over the red paint (not original color btw) .. At least the insurance came through giving me more than enough to repair the damage myself
You are correct in you thoughts of doing it right. While you are there..TAKE THE TIME to do this ONE TIME and do not get in a hurry. I KNOW it can wear on you...TRUST ME...I KNOW all about that. but the huge pay off is when it is done and you have NO REGRETS.

DUB
Old 06-07-2016, 11:09 AM
  #3  
augiedoggy
Safety Car
Thread Starter
 
augiedoggy's Avatar
 
Member Since: May 2007
Location: North tonawanda NY
Posts: 4,223
Received 828 Likes on 660 Posts

Default

Thanks DUB, It really is hard not to rush things at this point... I strategically waited to order some things like the final primer sealer just to prevent myself from getting the urge to do so I do plan on getting the epoxy primer on the car to seal it followed by the mp 243 poly primer in the next few days so I can get block sanding... someone before me appeared to have done extensive fiberglass repairs on the passenger fender and although its holding up fine the fender was grated and filed very rough and I can see this in what im assuming is the area around the repairs.
luckily it was a very sunny yet breezy day yesterday and the car appeared to dry off very quickly... (I know this doesnt necessarily mean there isnt moisture still trapped in some of the body) but the sun was heating it up for most of the day after I washed it in the morning so I figured Id give it another day or two in the garage while I finish up last minute odds and ends I keep finding and revisiting.. I do want it to look as close to professionally done as possible since I know people will pick it over being a classic and a custom color to boot. But this is certainly intended to be a driver that I dont want to be afraid to drive and when I bought it My intent was to have fun with it and make it as I want. Thankfully much of the original stuff was butchered so it made changes like the 4 bolt performance Engine I built go in guilt free..
This is a budget build though so its taken me 4 years now and I figure im at about 7-8k with everything including the car so far plus all the work which so far Ive managed myself.

BTW I did manage to find a diy step by step on the weatherstrippig including the rear pillar ones...

Last edited by augiedoggy; 06-07-2016 at 11:16 AM.

Get notified of new replies

To removing rear window seal/ weatherstripping.




Quick Reply: removing rear window seal/ weatherstripping.



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:09 PM.