Want to verify c3 paint layers
06-19-2016, 10:38 AM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
Want to verify c3 paint layers
I used a razor and got the red paint off and then dark grey. Do i stop at light grey or take the light grey off? I understand you can ruin fiberglass by going to far so im being extra careful.
When making fiberglass repairs how far down does the car need sanding?
When making fiberglass repairs how far down does the car need sanding?
06-19-2016, 10:50 AM
#2
Melting Slicks
To repair the glass, you need to be down to the glass. Depending on the year, you may have some SMC material that will require EPOXY resin rather than POLYESTER resin. Too aggressive of sanding, especially with a machine, can alter body lines and create more need to fill the contour back to original.
06-19-2016, 11:18 AM
#3
Racer
Thread Starter
To repair the glass, you need to be down to the glass. Depending on the year, you may have some SMC material that will require EPOXY resin rather than POLYESTER resin. Too aggressive of sanding, especially with a machine, can alter body lines and create more need to fill the contour back to original.
06-19-2016, 03:12 PM
#5
Melting Slicks
Since I have a '64, I am not as well versed in the C3s. I did a quick research and it appears the your '77 body is all SMC. The grey you see may be the body material. A photo may help. there are others with more experience who will likely chime in. Good luck. Now off to stripping the paint from my '64 rear window channel.
06-19-2016, 04:58 PM
#6
Race Director
On a 1977...when you get eh red paint off you may see a dark gray product. That dark gray you are looking at is more than likely the sealer coat....and you may also actually find areas where you may see a red oxide primer also.
When the dark gray sealer is removed...your body panel will be a light gray and in some areas may have dark streaks running through it making it look like marble.
When you are down to the light gray...that is it.... and as far as you can go due it being the body material.
NOW...depending on the damage you are repairing and WHERE the damage is located CAN dictate on HOW it needs to be repaired so it does not come back and haunt you later.
And THIS is when having a good photo and written description of the damage so there is no mistaking what you have for damage. And your photos do not need to ALL be so close that I can see the molecular structure of the SMC....make sure some are taken further away so I can see exactly where the crack or whatever is located. Because like I wrote...It DOES make a difference in some repairs.
DUB
06-20-2016, 02:48 PM
#7
Racer
Thread Starter
AS mentioned...PHOTOS really help us see what you are describing. And here is why...
On a 1977...when you get eh red paint off you may see a dark gray product. That dark gray you are looking at is more than likely the sealer coat....and you may also actually find areas where you may see a red oxide primer also.
When the dark gray sealer is removed...your body panel will be a light gray and in some areas may have dark streaks running through it making it look like marble.
When you are down to the light gray...that is it.... and as far as you can go due it being the body material.
NOW...depending on the damage you are repairing and WHERE the damage is located CAN dictate on HOW it needs to be repaired so it does not come back and haunt you later.
And THIS is when having a good photo and written description of the damage so there is no mistaking what you have for damage. And your photos do not need to ALL be so close that I can see the molecular structure of the SMC....make sure some are taken further away so I can see exactly where the crack or whatever is located. Because like I wrote...It DOES make a difference in some repairs.
DUB
On a 1977...when you get eh red paint off you may see a dark gray product. That dark gray you are looking at is more than likely the sealer coat....and you may also actually find areas where you may see a red oxide primer also.
When the dark gray sealer is removed...your body panel will be a light gray and in some areas may have dark streaks running through it making it look like marble.
When you are down to the light gray...that is it.... and as far as you can go due it being the body material.
NOW...depending on the damage you are repairing and WHERE the damage is located CAN dictate on HOW it needs to be repaired so it does not come back and haunt you later.
And THIS is when having a good photo and written description of the damage so there is no mistaking what you have for damage. And your photos do not need to ALL be so close that I can see the molecular structure of the SMC....make sure some are taken further away so I can see exactly where the crack or whatever is located. Because like I wrote...It DOES make a difference in some repairs.
DUB
06-20-2016, 06:34 PM
#8
Race Director
Due to how some people here on the Forum feel that when I reply ...that 'my way' is the ONLY WAY to do something...which if people actually got to know me...would KNOW that that can not be further from the truth. SO...I will write this and you can do as you wish...and that is also not me giving you permission on doing it your way...because honestly...its your car and I have absolutely NO SAY in how anything gets done.
In my opinion:
The 80 grit swirls from your orbital sander are not an issue...as long as you know how to correctly use one and not damage feature lines, etc.
It also will depend on what you plan on applying on the bare body when stripped.
I WOULD chemically strip off all that I can and I really concentrate on the areas that would be really hard to hand sand....even if that means that I may need to media blast these areas for speed in getting it done.
I also prefer to hand block it with my long boards and radiator hose, etc so I am keeping the panel straight. I know how to use a finish sander..but I prefer to hand block the panel myself. But ..YES..there are areas were I will use the finish sander if when I feel the panel it is good. SO...it all depends.
THANKS for the photos....it really helps!
DUB
In my opinion:
The 80 grit swirls from your orbital sander are not an issue...as long as you know how to correctly use one and not damage feature lines, etc.
It also will depend on what you plan on applying on the bare body when stripped.
I WOULD chemically strip off all that I can and I really concentrate on the areas that would be really hard to hand sand....even if that means that I may need to media blast these areas for speed in getting it done.
I also prefer to hand block it with my long boards and radiator hose, etc so I am keeping the panel straight. I know how to use a finish sander..but I prefer to hand block the panel myself. But ..YES..there are areas were I will use the finish sander if when I feel the panel it is good. SO...it all depends.
THANKS for the photos....it really helps!
DUB