Just did a very bad thing to my '85... (paint/fiberglass help)
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Just did a very bad thing to my '85... (paint/fiberglass help needed)
It's embarrassing as hell, but I won't pretend it's not my fault. Not to go into too many details, but I was in a parking garage, my car dies, an angry looking guy in a bro-truck comes rushing towards me, and I go straight back, managing a glancing blow from a concrete pillar. That's really no excuse, but I will say that my clutch is so suddenly dysfunctional (no engagement until ~25% pedal depression- just starting today) that I managed to give it a lot more revs than I was anticipating. That's a post for another subforum... I'm just sounding like more of an idiot now. Anyways, the pictures are below. I'd really appreciate it if someone could run me through my options on fixing this short of fully repainting the car (if there really are any). Also, any ideas on cost of repair/preferred type of body shop would be really helpful. I have no bodywork experience and very little knowledge on the subject. I can provide more pictures if needed, but I think the damage is really just superficial without warping/cracking in the body. Still, I can't be sure if the carnage extends beyond paint. But it looks like hell and I dug through the paint pretty deeply, striking the RR quarter and bumper
Never done anything like this in all my years of driving... it was just one of those days when every factor conspires against you (namely, idiocy). What has me most worried is the sickening crunch I heard backing up, which made me think I'd absolutely destroyed the rear 1/4; caved in fiberglass and all. I guess nothing can be determined for sure until I have the chance to really get in behind there. Thanks.
Never done anything like this in all my years of driving... it was just one of those days when every factor conspires against you (namely, idiocy). What has me most worried is the sickening crunch I heard backing up, which made me think I'd absolutely destroyed the rear 1/4; caved in fiberglass and all. I guess nothing can be determined for sure until I have the chance to really get in behind there. Thanks.
Last edited by C4+3=/=C7; 06-22-2016 at 09:44 PM.
#2
Race Director
First off...it would be helpful knowing basically where you live by filling out your Public Profile. You do not have to be specific if you do not want to. So for example..if you live in California...it would be best to not just put California. But putting Northern California works due to there is a big difference in Northern California and Southern California.
AS for the cost...that depends WHERE you live and what the going rate for doing this type of work costs.
More photos will not be needed because they will more than likely NOT show any fine stress cracks that you can see with your eyes but the camera will not pick up.
*****PROFESSIONAL OPINION*****
This repair is a basic 'no-brainer' and it DOES NOT require the car to be fully painted.
Now... I have an awesome 'eye for color' and I could get the color so close by tinting the mix...that I know how I would do this...BUT...that does not mean that a painter in a another shop is willing to or can do that.
With the damage area being so centralized in one area and towards the rear of the car and split up by a molding...there are 'tricks' that could fix this and not get all CRAZY and involved. And ..as much as I hate to write it... a lot of it also depends on the rest of your paint and its condition. The reason I wrote that is some of my customers want it repaired perfectly and no flaws..but they have chips in the hood and a scrape in the door, etc. And like I tell them..I can get it RIGHT...but if your car already has orange peel in it and flaws and the front of the cars paint is dull with no shine...then I am NOT going to do the repair and sand the paint perfectly SLICK and buff it out so it looks like a mirror and the rest of the car does not look that way... THAT alone in itself is NOT matching the paint...in regards to texture. It is not they are having to settle for anything LESS than what they BEFORE it got damaged and THEY were happy with. It is all about repairing it so it MATCHES....in color, texture and shine.
DUB
AS for the cost...that depends WHERE you live and what the going rate for doing this type of work costs.
More photos will not be needed because they will more than likely NOT show any fine stress cracks that you can see with your eyes but the camera will not pick up.
*****PROFESSIONAL OPINION*****
This repair is a basic 'no-brainer' and it DOES NOT require the car to be fully painted.
Now... I have an awesome 'eye for color' and I could get the color so close by tinting the mix...that I know how I would do this...BUT...that does not mean that a painter in a another shop is willing to or can do that.
With the damage area being so centralized in one area and towards the rear of the car and split up by a molding...there are 'tricks' that could fix this and not get all CRAZY and involved. And ..as much as I hate to write it... a lot of it also depends on the rest of your paint and its condition. The reason I wrote that is some of my customers want it repaired perfectly and no flaws..but they have chips in the hood and a scrape in the door, etc. And like I tell them..I can get it RIGHT...but if your car already has orange peel in it and flaws and the front of the cars paint is dull with no shine...then I am NOT going to do the repair and sand the paint perfectly SLICK and buff it out so it looks like a mirror and the rest of the car does not look that way... THAT alone in itself is NOT matching the paint...in regards to texture. It is not they are having to settle for anything LESS than what they BEFORE it got damaged and THEY were happy with. It is all about repairing it so it MATCHES....in color, texture and shine.
DUB
The following users liked this post:
C4+3=/=C7 (06-23-2016)
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
First off...it would be helpful knowing basically where you live by filling out your Public Profile. You do not have to be specific if you do not want to. So for example..if you live in California...it would be best to not just put California. But putting Northern California works due to there is a big difference in Northern California and Southern California.
AS for the cost...that depends WHERE you live and what the going rate for doing this type of work costs.
More photos will not be needed because they will more than likely NOT show any fine stress cracks that you can see with your eyes but the camera will not pick up.
*****PROFESSIONAL OPINION*****
This repair is a basic 'no-brainer' and it DOES NOT require the car to be fully painted.
Now... I have an awesome 'eye for color' and I could get the color so close by tinting the mix...that I know how I would do this...BUT...that does not mean that a painter in a another shop is willing to or can do that.
With the damage area being so centralized in one area and towards the rear of the car and split up by a molding...there are 'tricks' that could fix this and not get all CRAZY and involved. And ..as much as I hate to write it... a lot of it also depends on the rest of your paint and its condition. The reason I wrote that is some of my customers want it repaired perfectly and no flaws..but they have chips in the hood and a scrape in the door, etc. And like I tell them..I can get it RIGHT...but if your car already has orange peel in it and flaws and the front of the cars paint is dull with no shine...then I am NOT going to do the repair and sand the paint perfectly SLICK and buff it out so it looks like a mirror and the rest of the car does not look that way... THAT alone in itself is NOT matching the paint...in regards to texture. It is not they are having to settle for anything LESS than what they BEFORE it got damaged and THEY were happy with. It is all about repairing it so it MATCHES....in color, texture and shine.
DUB
AS for the cost...that depends WHERE you live and what the going rate for doing this type of work costs.
More photos will not be needed because they will more than likely NOT show any fine stress cracks that you can see with your eyes but the camera will not pick up.
*****PROFESSIONAL OPINION*****
This repair is a basic 'no-brainer' and it DOES NOT require the car to be fully painted.
Now... I have an awesome 'eye for color' and I could get the color so close by tinting the mix...that I know how I would do this...BUT...that does not mean that a painter in a another shop is willing to or can do that.
With the damage area being so centralized in one area and towards the rear of the car and split up by a molding...there are 'tricks' that could fix this and not get all CRAZY and involved. And ..as much as I hate to write it... a lot of it also depends on the rest of your paint and its condition. The reason I wrote that is some of my customers want it repaired perfectly and no flaws..but they have chips in the hood and a scrape in the door, etc. And like I tell them..I can get it RIGHT...but if your car already has orange peel in it and flaws and the front of the cars paint is dull with no shine...then I am NOT going to do the repair and sand the paint perfectly SLICK and buff it out so it looks like a mirror and the rest of the car does not look that way... THAT alone in itself is NOT matching the paint...in regards to texture. It is not they are having to settle for anything LESS than what they BEFORE it got damaged and THEY were happy with. It is all about repairing it so it MATCHES....in color, texture and shine.
DUB
But as shop selection goes, you'd say finding a reputable place is sufficient because fiberglass experience isn't really a factor?
#4
Race Director
Finding a shop to do this in your area...is something that you MAY want to take the time and research and go and see.
Possibly talk to some other Corvette owners in your area if you attend shows and some club events. A name will more than like 'pop up' often and that is who I would say to go talk to them and see what they do.
DUB
Possibly talk to some other Corvette owners in your area if you attend shows and some club events. A name will more than like 'pop up' often and that is who I would say to go talk to them and see what they do.
DUB
The following users liked this post:
C4+3=/=C7 (06-23-2016)
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
Finding a shop to do this in your area...is something that you MAY want to take the time and research and go and see.
Possibly talk to some other Corvette owners in your area if you attend shows and some club events. A name will more than like 'pop up' often and that is who I would say to go talk to them and see what they do.
DUB
Possibly talk to some other Corvette owners in your area if you attend shows and some club events. A name will more than like 'pop up' often and that is who I would say to go talk to them and see what they do.
DUB