Faded C4 bumper
06-30-2016, 10:44 AM
#1
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Faded C4 bumper
Dark green nothing looks peeling. Looks like sun damaged faded paint to me lost the shine on top and gets better as you get closer to the bottom. It looks passable when wet after washing. The car is a daily driver and never going to be a show car though it cleans up nice it does have a nick or small scratch here and there to add to it's well loved and driven patina LOL.
The rest cleans up pretty good with some wax and detailer there is a water spot or two I am sure if you look hard enough but that is ok for now. My goal is to get the faded parts looking a little better and slowing down any further damage. I have had the car for 8 years and really only drive it every now and then in the summer.
Any and all suggestions welcome but the thought of removing the bumper and sending out for repaint is off the table for both time and money.
The rest cleans up pretty good with some wax and detailer there is a water spot or two I am sure if you look hard enough but that is ok for now. My goal is to get the faded parts looking a little better and slowing down any further damage. I have had the car for 8 years and really only drive it every now and then in the summer.
Any and all suggestions welcome but the thought of removing the bumper and sending out for repaint is off the table for both time and money.
06-30-2016, 05:08 PM
#2
Race Director
The clear is DEAD..and anything you do to it will further remove more clear...which will make it come back dull faster and look even worse.
It is much like sun burnt skin...it is a matter of time when your skin WILL peel. SO no matter what you do to make the paint shine...it will go back dull where it is already dull and the area will get bigger and do it quicker. If you polish on it and see green coming off on your towel....you have no hope in saving it....other than painting it.
This problem requires clear to be applied to provide the needed UV protection. I KNOW you do not want to 'hear' that...but those are the facts.....NOT my opinion.
DUB
07-01-2016, 09:58 AM
#3
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thank you for the very quick and clear answer. Sounds like nothing will help and most will hurt. Any possibility painting (clear) just the bumper top in position masking off other body panels and yes less than a professional job I get that. The bottom half or bumper is fine as are the rest of the panels around the upper rear bumper. I can live with the color not quite matching as it does not now and as you say only going to get worse. I grant this thought hurts a pro's ears and sets off alarms in your head. My reality is it is a 5k car at best one of a zillion C4s and a driver. The other one limited funds and time as well. Something I would think be marginally better than doing nothing even if only some wax with a UV protectant if there is such a thing.
07-01-2016, 05:15 PM
#4
Race Director
Thank you for the very quick and clear answer. Sounds like nothing will help and most will hurt. Any possibility painting (clear) just the bumper top in position masking off other body panels and yes less than a professional job I get that. The bottom half or bumper is fine as are the rest of the panels around the upper rear bumper. I can live with the color not quite matching as it does not now and as you say only going to get worse. I grant this thought hurts a pro's ears and sets off alarms in your head. My reality is it is a 5k car at best one of a zillion C4s and a driver. The other one limited funds and time as well. Something I would think be marginally better than doing nothing even if only some wax with a UV protectant if there is such a thing.
I will not get into the potential problems that can occur in time by ONLY applying clear to the top of the bumper when it is still attached....seeing how money and time are an issue. Clearing the top of the bumper as I stated CAN BE DONE...but there is a procedure that should be followed so clear lifting on the edges are taken out of the equation because the bumper CAN BE prepped around those edges.
Waxing with a UV protectant would be something you obviously can try. I can not endorse it. I can not see how it can work when it is applied and so thin...I feel that just may be 'hype'. Who knows...it may work out fine.
And YES...you are correct. It does ' hurt a pro's ears' ...BUT....I am not judging what you choose to do....but I can 'say' that when I get a Corvette where the body panels were not properly prepped for paint and repairs...it costs the current owner more money because of materials are lifting and popping off...and I can not use that as a suitable foundation for my repairs.
DUB
07-02-2016, 07:54 AM
#5
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thank you again DUB for the very quick and clear answer. I get it with playing around only makes it worse for the next guy. The car is maybe a 6 on a 1 to 10 scale. Has 80k on it. Runs ok stock engine and minor upgrades. Needs a dash repair for gauges and drivers side seat cover as well.
My thought was to remove tail lights and not sure how the either reflector or third brake light comes out. Lightly scuff the clear with something around 600 to 1000 grit to get the gloss off it. Clean with whatever is the recommend pre paint cleaner to get any remaining oil wax finger prints out then mask and shoot. I have a place to do it that is clean and well lit with A/C and heat as needed.
Anything you would add subtract or change is happily accepted. I read your warnings very carefully and gave them more than casual thought asking if I really wanted to bother at all. Nothing seems to be lifting or peeling in any way so my only reason for thinking this might work. Might being the operative work and how long it lasts the next unknown as well. In 2 years I may not even have the car and to be honest after having it 8 years my interest is fading anyway.
My thought was to remove tail lights and not sure how the either reflector or third brake light comes out. Lightly scuff the clear with something around 600 to 1000 grit to get the gloss off it. Clean with whatever is the recommend pre paint cleaner to get any remaining oil wax finger prints out then mask and shoot. I have a place to do it that is clean and well lit with A/C and heat as needed.
Anything you would add subtract or change is happily accepted. I read your warnings very carefully and gave them more than casual thought asking if I really wanted to bother at all. Nothing seems to be lifting or peeling in any way so my only reason for thinking this might work. Might being the operative work and how long it lasts the next unknown as well. In 2 years I may not even have the car and to be honest after having it 8 years my interest is fading anyway.
07-02-2016, 05:25 PM
#6
Race Director
My thought was to remove tail lights and not sure how the either reflector or third brake light comes out. Lightly scuff the clear with something around 600 to 1000 grit to get the gloss off it. Clean with whatever is the recommend pre paint cleaner to get any remaining oil wax finger prints out then mask and shoot. I have a place to do it that is clean and well lit with A/C and heat as needed.
You are pretty much correct. SO MUCH of it depends on how bad the haze is in the clear. Hazed out clear means that it has lost its ability to help in UV protection...SO...the hazy area MAY sand off easier due to the clear has been structurally weakened. SO..be careful on these areas. The clear can 'powder' away rather quickly...depending on how bad the clear is..as I wrote. Where you still have good clear...you do not have to worry so much...but do not go crazy sanding either. 600 grit will work...and do it WET.
And when you are done..if you have water running across where you sanded..you can look and see if you disturbed the color coat. Preferably do this where you have good light so you can see...so being outside is fine.
Anything you would add subtract or change is happily accepted. I read your warnings very carefully and gave them more than casual thought asking if I really wanted to bother at all. Nothing seems to be lifting or peeling in any way so my only reason for thinking this might work.
You are pretty much correct. SO MUCH of it depends on how bad the haze is in the clear. Hazed out clear means that it has lost its ability to help in UV protection...SO...the hazy area MAY sand off easier due to the clear has been structurally weakened. SO..be careful on these areas. The clear can 'powder' away rather quickly...depending on how bad the clear is..as I wrote. Where you still have good clear...you do not have to worry so much...but do not go crazy sanding either. 600 grit will work...and do it WET.
And when you are done..if you have water running across where you sanded..you can look and see if you disturbed the color coat. Preferably do this where you have good light so you can see...so being outside is fine.
Anything you would add subtract or change is happily accepted. I read your warnings very carefully and gave them more than casual thought asking if I really wanted to bother at all. Nothing seems to be lifting or peeling in any way so my only reason for thinking this might work.
The idea is to get the oils off the panel and if it is hot outside by where you are...wiping the entire bumper down and then trying to wipe it off may not work because you are trying to do too much surface area at one time.
THIS STEP is IMPORTANT...so being in a hurry is NOT a good thing. Take your time. Because IF YOU DON'T...and still ahve oils on the panel and go to apply the clear and it fisheyes...you will WISH you HAD taken the time.
I am also not CHEAP..and by this statement I mean trying to actually save on my lint free wipers I use. I may use the wiper to apply the wax and grease remove on a few panels when I am doing an entire car. But when it comes to removing the wax and grease remover and drying the panel...when I get done with lets say...the top of your door (above the molding)...I throw that wiper away and start with a fresh wiper so I am not possibly moving an oil that I just wiped off a panel to another panel.
Also take real good care in prepping your bumper when you are sanding it where it meets the rear quarters. This is where you can have clear pop off in time if you do not really prep it well...which is why I detach the bumper so I can clean the flange and also prep the bumper so clear can get around the edge.
When masking around your taillight and license plate area...do the best you can and remember that when you spray clear there...if that area is NOT sealed off...a lot of dust and crap can come out from behind the bumper and ruin you job you worked hard on.
Lastly..and this is common sense...do not have any lotion or oily stuff on your hands when you do ANY of the work. And make sure you wash your hand with soap and no crazy crap in it that will allow an oil to be on your skin when you go to wipe down the car with wax and grease remover. Some people like to use the nitrile gloves...which is fine if you choose to do so.
Almost forget....do not forget to get a tack rag and open it up a few minutes BEFORE you plan on tacking off the panel AFTER you wiped it down with the wax and grease remover...and DO NOT wipe hard on the panel...just lightly go over the panel.
DUB
07-03-2016, 06:26 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Thanks DUB for the very clear advice. I hear you on the warning on the edges. They actually seem to be in the best shape compared to the flatter sections. I get it with the dust and masking. If nitrile gloves a good idea no problem for something so cheap.
Potential shopping list. Can this come from a place like NAPA or do I need to find a paint store that has professional auto paints and supplies?
Nitrile gloves
Sand paper of some undermined grit you fill that in and assuming wet sand just coarse enough to take the shine or oxidation off and stay off the base coat at all costs..
Wax and grease remover
Wipes for wax and grease remover and plenty of them
Masking supplies tape paper etc.
Tack rag to be used just before painting
Some sort of clear coat that is urethane compatible that is easy to apply.
Is this workable?
http://www.eastwood.com/spray-max-2k...t-aerosol.html
How many coats? And what to do with it after it sets up for how long?
Do I start with a tack coat or go straight for a wet coat?
If this comes out well it might be a useful thread for those in my position and if does not it will list why going this way is a bad idea so something to learn for all with a sub 8 to 10 car. Worst thing that can happen is I will waste a few bucks spending some quality me time in the shop playing with a 25 year old car and having a few drinks. What more can a 64 year old hot rodder want?
Potential shopping list. Can this come from a place like NAPA or do I need to find a paint store that has professional auto paints and supplies?
Nitrile gloves
Sand paper of some undermined grit you fill that in and assuming wet sand just coarse enough to take the shine or oxidation off and stay off the base coat at all costs..
Wax and grease remover
Wipes for wax and grease remover and plenty of them
Masking supplies tape paper etc.
Tack rag to be used just before painting
Some sort of clear coat that is urethane compatible that is easy to apply.
Is this workable?
http://www.eastwood.com/spray-max-2k...t-aerosol.html
How many coats? And what to do with it after it sets up for how long?
Do I start with a tack coat or go straight for a wet coat?
If this comes out well it might be a useful thread for those in my position and if does not it will list why going this way is a bad idea so something to learn for all with a sub 8 to 10 car. Worst thing that can happen is I will waste a few bucks spending some quality me time in the shop playing with a 25 year old car and having a few drinks. What more can a 64 year old hot rodder want?
Last edited by ddahlgren; 07-03-2016 at 08:57 AM.
07-03-2016, 04:53 PM
#8
Race Director
YES...NAPA or any autobody supply store will have what you need.
Basically all urethane clears are able to be used on your bumper...it is IF you care to use any of the elastrometric additives (flex additive) that allow the clear to stay flexible. SOME of the elastrometric additives stay in the clear for a short while for re-assembly....while others stay in the clear.
600 grit wet/dry paper is fine. one sheet may be fine....but I would not buy a sleeve.
You can also get a gray Scotch-brite pad and use some COMET cleanser and scuff the clear also in those ares where it is shiny. All you are looking to do is to not paint on shiny paint....so if it is dull....that is better than nothing all. RINSE VERY VERY WELL! I do this all the time and it is a part of my prepping procedure.
If you want to use the aerosol clear...that is your choice...but I know that I would use it in some scenarios....but I seriously doubt I would do your bumper UNLESS they offer an aerosol that has the flex additive in it. BUT...keep in mind I do this so it is hard for me to tell you something that I am not totally on board with.
And YES...painters across the nation apply clear to bumpers with NO flex additive in them. I see it done at many shops all the time.
DUB
Basically all urethane clears are able to be used on your bumper...it is IF you care to use any of the elastrometric additives (flex additive) that allow the clear to stay flexible. SOME of the elastrometric additives stay in the clear for a short while for re-assembly....while others stay in the clear.
600 grit wet/dry paper is fine. one sheet may be fine....but I would not buy a sleeve.
You can also get a gray Scotch-brite pad and use some COMET cleanser and scuff the clear also in those ares where it is shiny. All you are looking to do is to not paint on shiny paint....so if it is dull....that is better than nothing all. RINSE VERY VERY WELL! I do this all the time and it is a part of my prepping procedure.
If you want to use the aerosol clear...that is your choice...but I know that I would use it in some scenarios....but I seriously doubt I would do your bumper UNLESS they offer an aerosol that has the flex additive in it. BUT...keep in mind I do this so it is hard for me to tell you something that I am not totally on board with.
And YES...painters across the nation apply clear to bumpers with NO flex additive in them. I see it done at many shops all the time.
DUB
07-03-2016, 07:28 PM
#9
Burning Brakes
DDahl,
Please keep me posted on this thread, as I am in the process of "rescuing" a friend's Polo Green 91 with the same challenge.
And DUB, thank you for the usual superb advice on these cars.
Wishing you and your families a safe and wonderful Independence Day,
Rickman
Please keep me posted on this thread, as I am in the process of "rescuing" a friend's Polo Green 91 with the same challenge.
And DUB, thank you for the usual superb advice on these cars.
Wishing you and your families a safe and wonderful Independence Day,
Rickman
07-03-2016, 10:45 PM
#10
Melting Slicks
Thread Starter
Will keep all posted and borrow a decent digital camera to do a before and after success or not as a learning experience either way. As long as does not bubble or peel I would think getting it better than flat green has to be an improvement. If it works well will give the front bumper a try as well. It has some fading though not as bad as the rear bumper. The clear I found that Eastwood and others no doubt sell for less claims to be an epoxy paint 2 part with a 48 hour shelf life after activating it. It does come with a warning that it is only compatible with either a 2 part epoxy paint or water based paint no touch up lacquer or anything like it and no idea what a previous owner might have done and even a car fax is useless as no way of knowing what another shop might have used even if it was repaired. If I get this done the cluster repaired and decent seat covers I might be able to take the car from a 5 or 6 driver to a 7 or 8 keeper. I wish the brakes were better but have to remind myself it is a 25 year old car that weighs 3300 lbs. But a different subject for a different group here.
07-04-2016, 05:16 PM
#11
Race Director
If you read the 'questions and answers' on the site that you posted for this Eastwood clear. You will read one of them where the response stated it can be applied over cured paint...which your car is. Unless you just had it painted a few months ago....which we know is not the case.
Eastwood is only writing this disclaimer of what it wants it going on due to most people apply a paint first...which is technically still wet....even though it is dry. So..with the color coat still being fresh and soft...the solvents in the aerosol clear can attack it if it is not what Eastwood knows will work.
Call Eastwood and talk with the tech..and if they have no clue...contact the manufacturer of this aerosol clear...because Eastwood does not make paint...it is just being sold by them and re-marketed.
DUB
Eastwood is only writing this disclaimer of what it wants it going on due to most people apply a paint first...which is technically still wet....even though it is dry. So..with the color coat still being fresh and soft...the solvents in the aerosol clear can attack it if it is not what Eastwood knows will work.
Call Eastwood and talk with the tech..and if they have no clue...contact the manufacturer of this aerosol clear...because Eastwood does not make paint...it is just being sold by them and re-marketed.
DUB
07-05-2016, 05:36 PM
#13
Race Director
..and it may be worth the time in checking the company out. They may have someone who can translate back to English for them. And if not.. I an not fluent in German. I know just enough to get myself in trouble..but I do have friends that can communicate German for me...or even possible go to a German restaurant in your area and talk with them and ask them if they would help you. You never know....OR...use it without knowing for certain and hope for the best.DUB