alxltd1

My coupe was painted 45 days ago. Since then I have only washed it frequently. The shop said to go ahead and wax it but I am hesitant having read that you should first let new paint cure for some period. I have noticed that when drying with a microfiber towel it feels like it is catching or "sticky". So, first question is when can I first wax? In the interim can I clay the car or use the Eagle One prep mitt? Can I use a pure polish now in place of wax until it is cured?

Any help is appreciated. the car was repainted black base/clear coat after the install of prepped wide rear quarters, front flared fenders and a new hi rise hood. Thanks.

randy ransome

You can wash, wax, detail it anything you want to do to it now.

TWINRAY

I painted my '67 last year, haven't waxed it yet and don't see any need to. I could smell it was still outgassing solvents many months after I painted it. IF I waxed a newly painted car, it wouldn't be till after a year. A micro fibre cloth won't drag on a cut and buffed finish. You could try a clay bar. YMMV

alxltd1

Researching, I ran across some advice from Meguiar's that basically said to give the paint 90 days to cure before waxing, but that during that time to wash it frequently with a wash that contained no waxes and to use a pure polish to keep swirls at bay from washing and to assist in the curing process. I have some, what seems to now be discontinued, Meguiar's Deep Crystal Polish and some Meguiar's Ultimate Polish which seems to be the replacement for the former. I also have some Meguiar's 305 Glaze. Right now I will keep washing and will try either a traditional clay bar or the Eagle One Prep Mitt and one of the polishes mentioned. Thanks for the input.

DUB

I would give it as long as you can before you apply wax if that is what you are waiting on.

I do not use wax on my paint work ad let my customers know NOT to wax it. They can apply a polish or a glaze till their fingers bleed...but if thy seal up my paint with wax...they bought the warranty.

DUB

alxltd1

I was just assuming wax to the next logical step after curing, but respect your opinion so will just clay it and use a polish. Is any sealant not advisable? Thanks.

DUB

You are correct in your thoughts that the next step could be waxing.

You will get numerous opinions from people who are much more of an expert to what to apply to paint. They might be right. I still hold firm on my beliefs that have not failed me in 30 years. In my opinion...applying a polish fortifies the clear and paint with the oils and resins it needs.

Applying a wax seals that process in. And as many feel...makes that polishing/glazing process last longer. I do not care about how long it lasts but rather if the paint is not being sealed up. Once again...my opinion.

And when people 'say' to wax it.. what they do not have to do is repair a problem IF something does happen. THAT is the difference. Kinda like car cover companies do not have to pay for paint damage....even though 'they say' the cover 'breathes'...YEAH---RIGHT!

And like many of my customers with paint jobs that are 10+ years old...ask me if they can wax it. I ask them how does it look now....and they say--"Great". Then I ask them.. "WHY change what is working???"

Obviously..... this is only my opinion and people can choose their own route and make their own decisions. I prefer NOT to seal up the paint with anything that seals the paint.

DUB

alxltd1

Thanks. I will stick to just using a polish for now.

Need A Vette

I've almost quit using wax, I do polish, and glaze twice a year, and wash in between, but my truck is garage kept. Use a PC 7424, and Meguiers polishes, and a product from Hi Temp called Akrya Glaze, the stuff is amazing!!!

When I do polish it's an all day affair, a wash with Dawn, Clay every surface, then begin the polish which I normally do twice, first with a medium pad (orange) Lake Country Pad then with a Polishing Pad (Black), then use another black polishing pad to apply the glaze, let it dry, then normally wipe off once dry. I do also have a polymer sealer that I apply by hand, which I leave on for 24 hours, and wipe off the following day. But my Black truck still looks flawless after 6 years, and my wife's '07 Jeep still looks new. It's a loabor of love, but it helps me relax.

D.

alxltd1

Ok so washed the car once again, used Meguairs Deep Crystal wash (no wax in the soap). Did a cellophane test. The finish and all glass are covered with what feels like overspray. Tested using an Eagle One surface prep mitt on the rear hatch glass with a quick detail as a lube and it removed the overspray. I am hesitant to use it on the paint, but I do have a Nanoskin Fine grade pad for my Griot DA polisher, or my air powered orbital sander. I am thinking of the following process to remove the overspray and polish the paint:

1.Wash again (the body shop said they waxed the car) should I use Dawn or remain using the Meguairs Deep Crystal wash?
2.Leave the car wet and use the Nanoskin (after breaking in on the glass surfaces) with plenty of their Glide lube diluted 7 to 1
3.Wash again and air dry
4.Polish with the DA using Meguairs Ultimate Compound on an orange pad (LC 5.5 pad)
5.Polish with the DA using Meguairs Ultimate Polish on a black pad (LC 5.5 pad)

Any comments appreciated. The finish, aside from the overspray has minimal and very light swirl marks. I would assume I will get some marring from the Nanoskin pad. I don’t know know if the Ultimate Compound is too aggressive to start with (I also have some Meguiars M2 Glaze) and should I just start with the Ultimate Polish or M2 and gauge it from there.

porchdog

clay bar .

DUB

OR.... if you want to test the products you have if you have concerns of them being to aggressive. Just do a small area and check it.

I do 'tests' a lot when I have to clean up over spray from a surface that was left by a previous shop. I do not have the time to spend with a clay bar when I know my wool and or foam pad can get it off quickly. It is kinda poiuntless for me to clay bar out a car that has paint chips and other bad areas in the paint. All I am doing is a the best quick 'freshen up' that I can without getting way too invloved in it.


Not that I do not seriously buff adn detail them from time to time...but I walk around the car and make sure my time beign spent.... will actually benefit the car because there are no major paint glitches or problems.

DUB