blending clear coat
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
blending clear coat
Just wondering is there a way to blend clear coat say in the middle of a panel,with out showing a brake or a line after you wet sand and buff.I know the right way is to clear the whole panel. and whats the procedure,i have tried doing it before its a hit or miss for me.
#2
Safety Car
I do this all the time with really good results and I'm picky
No tape and I use an airbrush and use 2 normal thick coats with center over the repair area.
Then blend out some thin coats. Light polish afterwards.
I had clearcoat peel off down by my front wheel rocker panel on a black car. Did not even sand down smooth just feathered edges and shot a rattle can thick coat and let dry, then used an orbital with a light polish. Best repair ive done, and you cannot see it. Go figure.
Did the rear of a Ducati tail section that was dropped and that turned out great clear repair was invisible. Hard part was blending the pearl paint that did not exist. Only way you could see it is if I pointed it out.
#3
Instructor
Thread Starter
I do this all the time with really good results and I'm picky
No tape and I use an airbrush and use 2 normal thick coats with center over the repair area.
Then blend out some thin coats. Light polish afterwards.
I had clearcoat peel off down by my front wheel rocker panel on a black car. Did not even sand down smooth just feathered edges and shot a rattle can thick coat and let dry, then used an orbital with a light polish. Best repair ive done, and you cannot see it. Go figure.
Did the rear of a Ducati tail section that was dropped and that turned out great clear repair was invisible. Hard part was blending the pearl paint that did not exist. Only way you could see it is if I pointed it out.
No tape and I use an airbrush and use 2 normal thick coats with center over the repair area.
Then blend out some thin coats. Light polish afterwards.
I had clearcoat peel off down by my front wheel rocker panel on a black car. Did not even sand down smooth just feathered edges and shot a rattle can thick coat and let dry, then used an orbital with a light polish. Best repair ive done, and you cannot see it. Go figure.
Did the rear of a Ducati tail section that was dropped and that turned out great clear repair was invisible. Hard part was blending the pearl paint that did not exist. Only way you could see it is if I pointed it out.
#4
Safety Car
Is the cheap way to make a 10 year old car better looking. But blending in itself is the cheap way.
The Ducati was new, and you could not tell.
Never used blending solvent, and color sanding I do use on a case by case basis.
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car71 (11-23-2016)
#6
Race Director
Just wondering is there a way to blend clear coat say in the middle of a panel,with out showing a brake or a line after you wet sand and buff.
NO...in time...the line can be seen in time if you know what to look for.
I know the right way is to clear the whole panel.
YES...You are correct. But in the business...there are times that a blend must be done. And I use a fade-out thinner that works great with the paint I use. The car goes out and I can not find the line...but in time if the Corvette comes back in the shop...and the owner has neglected to keep up on the paint by polishing it...I can immediately see the line....especially if it is up high on the cart where the sun can get to it.
and whats the procedure,i have tried doing it before its a hit or miss for me.
NO...in time...the line can be seen in time if you know what to look for.
I know the right way is to clear the whole panel.
YES...You are correct. But in the business...there are times that a blend must be done. And I use a fade-out thinner that works great with the paint I use. The car goes out and I can not find the line...but in time if the Corvette comes back in the shop...and the owner has neglected to keep up on the paint by polishing it...I can immediately see the line....especially if it is up high on the cart where the sun can get to it.
and whats the procedure,i have tried doing it before its a hit or miss for me.
Come in the next day with 1500 grit...wet sand it and then carefully buff it and I have had great results that way....but if the car is out in the sun....it will show. No way around it.
100%
I would not advise blending clear on a panel that does not have a distinct body feature line where you can hide the blend. Any painter will tell you that if you do not clear coat the entire panel..the edge WILL come back and show itself...as you know.
DUB
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car71 (11-23-2016)
#8
Race Director
I also understand that this fade-out thinner is not melting or softening the facotry clear coat...but it does bite into it.
I ALWAYS prefer to find a feature line that I can hide the line in. But sometimes there is not one....such as a hood for a 1984-1996 Corvette. They get fully clearcoated.
DUB
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car71 (11-23-2016)
#9
Safety Car
NO...the fade-out thinner I use has resin in it and is HOT...meaning that it has serious strength to it. Kinda like really slow dry lacquer thinner way back in the day.
I ALWAYS prefer to find a feature line that I can hide the line in. But sometimes there is not one....such as a hood for a 1984-1996 Corvette. They get fully clearcoated.
DUB
I ALWAYS prefer to find a feature line that I can hide the line in. But sometimes there is not one....such as a hood for a 1984-1996 Corvette. They get fully clearcoated.
DUB
Thank you
Right now I'm doing lic plate holes in a black C6, while at an angle it still shows everything.
I figure I can throw some personal time into it. If not ill take the skin off and we have a paint/body shop that will shoot the whole thing for $250.
I also understand that this fade-out thinner is not melting or softening the facotry clear coat...but it does bite into it.
That's what I was worried about.
I had such a good blend on my f fender lower rocker, I got cocky lol.
#10
Melting Slicks
All paint manufacturers do not recommend blending, even the ones that sell blending solvents.
Their recommendations when using such solvents is to polish the final edge. DO NOT BUFF!!!
They all say that the edge will fail in time.
If an insurance company demands that you blend, tell them to go pound sand! It is not the manufactures recommend way to repair.
The insurance company may say, "It is the industry standard way to repair"
Total B.S.! Demand that the repair is done according to Manufacturers recommendations for proper refinishing.
Of course, if you happen to drop an anvil, (or even a 1/2" wrench) and chip the paint, go ahead and touch up and blend to save lots of $$, knowing that the blend WILL fail in the future.
Their recommendations when using such solvents is to polish the final edge. DO NOT BUFF!!!
They all say that the edge will fail in time.
If an insurance company demands that you blend, tell them to go pound sand! It is not the manufactures recommend way to repair.
The insurance company may say, "It is the industry standard way to repair"
Total B.S.! Demand that the repair is done according to Manufacturers recommendations for proper refinishing.
Of course, if you happen to drop an anvil, (or even a 1/2" wrench) and chip the paint, go ahead and touch up and blend to save lots of $$, knowing that the blend WILL fail in the future.
Last edited by Roger Walling; 11-27-2016 at 11:54 AM.
#11
Safety Car
#12
Race Director
I have to disagree with this 'do not buff' way of thinking that the paint manufactures may state.
On several cars I have the pleasure to work. The paint jobs are slick as glass and there is no way that using my fade-out thinner and clear.... I can shoot it and have it be as slick as sanded and buffed clear. I can get it close...but it is not the same. SO...I do just that....I sand and buff/polish it and many times the 'tell-tale' line I can see is so faint. That there is not much more I can do other than take half the car a part for a small chip repair.
And I can guarantee that the customer is not going to have me rear clear coat the rear clip of their 1970 Corvette becasue they had a rock chip in the quarter panel.
DUB
On several cars I have the pleasure to work. The paint jobs are slick as glass and there is no way that using my fade-out thinner and clear.... I can shoot it and have it be as slick as sanded and buffed clear. I can get it close...but it is not the same. SO...I do just that....I sand and buff/polish it and many times the 'tell-tale' line I can see is so faint. That there is not much more I can do other than take half the car a part for a small chip repair.
And I can guarantee that the customer is not going to have me rear clear coat the rear clip of their 1970 Corvette becasue they had a rock chip in the quarter panel.
DUB
#13
Safety Car
Not arguing as much as trying to learn from you.
But some of my edges are very thin and buffing would clean it down and show a line where the coat is thicker. So I like polishing over cutting.
I would have to agree it depends of the repair, and how one did so.
I would also agree at my skill level of painting, I don't know what I can get away with like you do.
#14
Melting Slicks
Dub,
Quote, "....I sand and buff/polish it and many times the 'tell-tale' line I can see is so faint"
You must admit that that line that you see is so thin that when it breaks down due to lack of UV filters the blend will be noticeable.
I admit that there are times that it is totally impractical to completely refinish and a blend is necessary. (with the owners permission) That is why you can never give a firm price on a paint job until it is done.
Quote, "....I sand and buff/polish it and many times the 'tell-tale' line I can see is so faint"
You must admit that that line that you see is so thin that when it breaks down due to lack of UV filters the blend will be noticeable.
I admit that there are times that it is totally impractical to completely refinish and a blend is necessary. (with the owners permission) That is why you can never give a firm price on a paint job until it is done.
#15
Race Director
Dub,
Quote, "....I sand and buff/polish it and many times the 'tell-tale' line I can see is so faint"
YES...and when I write 'faint'...I mean seriously hard to find ( but it is still there). It is not like you can walk by the car and it is popping out right in your face.
You must admit that that line that you see is so thin that when it breaks down due to lack of UV filters the blend will be noticeable.
I 1000% AGREE...UNLESS the area is kept maintained with polish. It helps it last longer...but the inevitable will happen over time....and 'time' is just that...time It could be well over 5 years+ when the area may need to be re-addressed.
I admit that there are times that it is totally impractical to completely refinish and a blend is necessary. (with the owners permission) That is why you can never give a firm price on a paint job until it is done.
Quote, "....I sand and buff/polish it and many times the 'tell-tale' line I can see is so faint"
YES...and when I write 'faint'...I mean seriously hard to find ( but it is still there). It is not like you can walk by the car and it is popping out right in your face.
You must admit that that line that you see is so thin that when it breaks down due to lack of UV filters the blend will be noticeable.
I 1000% AGREE...UNLESS the area is kept maintained with polish. It helps it last longer...but the inevitable will happen over time....and 'time' is just that...time It could be well over 5 years+ when the area may need to be re-addressed.
I admit that there are times that it is totally impractical to completely refinish and a blend is necessary. (with the owners permission) That is why you can never give a firm price on a paint job until it is done.
When I start finding additional blemishes is what I call a 'Texas blend'. The area starts off as small as a pea...but grows into the entire rear clip...then doors...then the other clip...and then the t-tops if they are painted.
So as I tell my customers who are paying for it...."I am trying to find the spot on the car that I can stop the painting so I can stop the hemorrhaging of your wallet. In some cases...there is no hope...it must be an all-over paint job.
DUB