Ktholin

I'm trying to paint the red accents on my 53-55 polished wheel covers. After painstakingly masking each of the--count them--74 indents in each cover, I can't get good adhesion of the paint, especially at the tape edges.

I used Bull Dog Adhesion Promoter by Klean-Strip as it was recommended by the auto paint store, but it obviously is not doing the job. Where do I go next? Should I use a self-etching primer or try to scuff the accent area with Scotch Bright or steel wool? Problem is each area is so small (1/4" x 2") and hard to reach. I am using a single stage polyurethane paint that matches my wheel color. For some reason, the paint guys did not recommend that I use an etching primer.

Anyone have experience painting a highly polished wheel cover like mine? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

DUB

I will write this and you can do as you wish.

I know all about the 'bull dog' adhesion promoter. It is great stuff but not in this scenario.

If these wheel covers were at my shop. I would mask them off with blue vinyl 3M striping tape very well. The I might use duct tape to finish out the rest so I know I am not getting anything on the other polished areas. Better safe than sorry.

Then they would go in my blast cabinet and I would etch the surface with my media. When etching it ..I would hold my gun far away from it and let it slowly dull out the area until I can not see a reflection...and NOT get up point blank on the wheel cover.

By doing this it will more than likely not damage the blue vinyl tape appleid.

I would then clean it and inspect my edges of the tape. if I had to rip it all off and reapply it...I would.

Then I would apply a special primer I have that sticks to stainless/chrome...but you can use epoxy primer and apply a very light thin coats until you get coverage and then stop...then let that flash. This is where this can get tricky.

Knowing that you applied an epoxy primer..and when it was applied...hopefully thin. regardless of that. The epoxy got on your blue tape and also what you wanted to prime.

The edge of the blue vinyl tape that has epoxy on it....MAY be seen when you completely unmask it even after panting it red. Becasue the red was applied ON the epoxy...and the tape thickness is preventing the red getting to this edge. So...that is why it can be seen. Think of it like a layer cake. I would use a black epoxy so it will not stand out. And this seen edge is going to be really fine and almost unnoticeable...but if you know what to look for...you might see it.

To stop this edge from possibly being seen...which is why I mentioned NOT getting a lot of build of the epoxy primer.....you can take tape when the epoxy has set up fairly well and apply it to the epoxy on your blue vinyl tape and lift it off...and the epoxy in the area you wanted to keep primed should stay put IF it was prepped correctly to the EDGE of your tape. Just be careful if the epoxy is still a bit flexible...if it fall down into what you want to paint red...you are screwed.

SEM sells an aerosol black etch primer that you can paint on. I do it all the time. It can go on rather thin also. If you choose to use it..I would advise you spraying up a test panel ...using the tape and the whole 'shebang' and see what happens.

ALSO...after it has been media blasted...and masked off....you could mix up your paint and catalyze it and then using a pin striping brush...juts go in by hand and swipe each one with the pinstripe brush. Generally the paint will flow and you will not see that it was applied by a brush . I use my pinstripping brushes on many things and they do work well. But in this case...it would require me in getting the viscosity just right so the paint did not flow to much.

And I would more than likely use my air brush on these wheel cover if I were have to paint them so I could better control the paint and keep things at bay....instead of flooding the entire surface of the wheel cover.

DUB

Ktholin

Thanks, DUB. Really great suggestions. I did use blue vinyl tape to mask which was easy to apply worked very well. Its funny, but I was also thinking of using my blast cabinet to roughen the painted surfaces as you suggested. The vinyl tape should absorb the impact from the media as to not damage the polished surfaces.

I'll look for the SEM etching primer. I have a can of Black One Step self etching primer made by a Canadian Company called Dominion Sure Seal, Ltd. Any experience with this?

I understand the "layer cake" issue and will try the tape to lift the primer off the vinyl tape. However, it may not be necessary as the edge is along the bottom of each indented area, so it may not be visible. Fortunately, I have a pair of 2.5x dental magnifying loupes which brings out incredible detail and eases eyestrain. Again, thanks very much for your suggestions. I'll let you know how it works.

DUB

I have no knowledge of how the etch primer you have works.

YES...the vinyl tape seems to never get damaged when I blast stuff in my cabinet. Give it a trial test and see what it does for you ( which I am sure you would do anyway). I do not know what media you are using but I am using aluminum oxide....I think it is 60 grit.

I agree due to the area you are wanting to paint is recessed...but I thought I would mention what can happen.

I know the TIME you have in doing this. That repetative stuff can get to a person. Heck ...just tapting off one would be taxing. And just imagine how much soemone like me would have to charge you to do this. Some people might 'think' that this should be all done in an hour. Such a small area taht takes so much to get RIGHT.

DUB

Ktholin

Aluminum oxide seems really aggressive to me. I was planning to use glass beads, but it might not cut it. I'll play around with both.

To say this is time intensive is an understatement. I was quoted $200 per wheel cover, which is why I elected to do it myself!

DUB

I use the aluminum oxide on the stainless moldings that require paint and I have yet to ever have a problem. You may be surprised on how ligth the abrasive texture actually is. This is why I have my gun about 8-10 inches away from it.

I have glass beads also in a another blast cabinet...and it seems to not do anything at all.

$200 per cover sound about right. Because it is no picnic.

DUB

Ktholin

Hey DUB,

One other quick question. When do you remove the tape after painting? Do you let it completely dry or when the paint is still a little soft?

Thanks again for all the help you provide forum members.

DUB

SO much of it depends on the amount of paint that had to be used to obtain coverage....and how 'wet' the vinyl tape actually is.

If you do it right away...the edge can 'lay down'. And there would be no chance of possible 'lifting' if for some odd reason the stuff did not stick.

Waiting about 20 minutes can cause the paint to begin to thicker and then become 'stringy'. So ...properly removing the vinyl tape is important if the paint does get stringy due to you allowing it to dry for a short while.

DUB