Help With How To Repair Body Gap
#1
Melting Slicks
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Help With How To Repair Body Gap
I've been working on adjusting the doors and body panels on the 62 and have reached a point where I think I now need to do repair to get the gaps correct. Any advise would be appreciated.
This is showing the fwd/upper of the door to fender gap.
This is showing the aft/lower to rear quarter gap
This is showing the fwd/upper of the door to fender gap.
This is showing the aft/lower to rear quarter gap
#2
Race Director
OK...thanks for the photos.
Simply put....I would use Vette Panel adhesive on these gaps to close them in where needed....assuming that the panels are flush when the door is closed. If they are not...then depending on how bad the panels are out of flush...and shimming can not bring them closer....then VPA can be used for that also. I can see how the fiberglass has been ground back slightly right at the point of this feature line.
NOW..if the door has been adjusted the best it possible can be...thus the wider gaps at the front of the door can not be closed up a bit.......and the car is on level ground with the tires on it all aired up as they need to be.
I can only see one area that raises a concern with me on using the VPA on it and it is at the front door gap and it is ON the door itself. it is in your first photo and barley made it into the shot. It is the body feature line below you bottom written measurement of what looks like 0.150..
Knowing that getting the doors to fit so weatherstrips will work and the door glass post work can be a task in itself.
Finding gap that you are trying to get to is one thing..BUT..do not forget....you will be applying other stuff on these panels.....so...if you gelcoat the car...then prime it..then basecoat/clearcoat it....all these layers WILL close up these gaps especially if the painter does like I do and make a conscience effort to make sure I apply these products to these areas so the gaps will close in some. I know how wide I can make my gaps because I have tested and knwo how thick I apply all of these products when I paint one.
Hopefully this helped...if not...let me know.
DUB
Simply put....I would use Vette Panel adhesive on these gaps to close them in where needed....assuming that the panels are flush when the door is closed. If they are not...then depending on how bad the panels are out of flush...and shimming can not bring them closer....then VPA can be used for that also. I can see how the fiberglass has been ground back slightly right at the point of this feature line.
NOW..if the door has been adjusted the best it possible can be...thus the wider gaps at the front of the door can not be closed up a bit.......and the car is on level ground with the tires on it all aired up as they need to be.
I can only see one area that raises a concern with me on using the VPA on it and it is at the front door gap and it is ON the door itself. it is in your first photo and barley made it into the shot. It is the body feature line below you bottom written measurement of what looks like 0.150..
Knowing that getting the doors to fit so weatherstrips will work and the door glass post work can be a task in itself.
Finding gap that you are trying to get to is one thing..BUT..do not forget....you will be applying other stuff on these panels.....so...if you gelcoat the car...then prime it..then basecoat/clearcoat it....all these layers WILL close up these gaps especially if the painter does like I do and make a conscience effort to make sure I apply these products to these areas so the gaps will close in some. I know how wide I can make my gaps because I have tested and knwo how thick I apply all of these products when I paint one.
Hopefully this helped...if not...let me know.
DUB
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Dale002 (01-23-2017)
#3
Melting Slicks
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Member Since: Jul 2010
Location: Between Tally and Gatorville ,Florida
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BUT..do not forget....you will be applying other stuff on these panels.....so...if you gelcoat the car...then prime it..then basecoat/clearcoat it..
DUB,
I kind of forgot about these steps. Thanks for reminding me. I think I will try to see if I can move the door a bit fwd and shoot for a wider gap within the specs. May need to clean up the door rater than adding material. I was also thinking that if I did need to add vpa that I would first use it to make sure the stationary parts are straight and flat then add to the door..
DUB,
I kind of forgot about these steps. Thanks for reminding me. I think I will try to see if I can move the door a bit fwd and shoot for a wider gap within the specs. May need to clean up the door rater than adding material. I was also thinking that if I did need to add vpa that I would first use it to make sure the stationary parts are straight and flat then add to the door..
Last edited by Dale002; 01-23-2017 at 09:11 PM.
#5
Race Director
I ALWAYS try to NOT apply Vette Panel Adhesive (VPA) to the door edge. I do...but it depends on how far I have to build it out.
Yes I use tape but there are so many different ways of using tape...I would need to see an exact area that it is being used on in order to add any more comments. It is not so 'cut and dry'.
DUB
Yes I use tape but there are so many different ways of using tape...I would need to see an exact area that it is being used on in order to add any more comments. It is not so 'cut and dry'.
DUB