Do I have to sand hood all the way down
#1
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Do I have to sand hood all the way down
I am about to paint the hood on my 81. The paint on it is in good shape so do I have to sand it all the way down before prime it?
#2
Team Owner
You're the judge, but if the body and paint are GOOD, then scuffing should do it.
#4
Race Director
It also depends on how many time the hood has been painted.
I agree...gettign the paint 100% dull will normally do just fine...but not knowing what is going on under what you are scuffing ...may come back and show up. There is a limit to how many mils of paint a panel should have on it to hold out against environmental issues.
I usually check the paint thickness at the edge of the panel...and also the side of this how is s good indicator that IF someone did paint it previously...if the paint wants to flake off....it causes me to have a concern IF they prepped the rest of the panel correctly for proper adhesion.
DUB
I agree...gettign the paint 100% dull will normally do just fine...but not knowing what is going on under what you are scuffing ...may come back and show up. There is a limit to how many mils of paint a panel should have on it to hold out against environmental issues.
I usually check the paint thickness at the edge of the panel...and also the side of this how is s good indicator that IF someone did paint it previously...if the paint wants to flake off....it causes me to have a concern IF they prepped the rest of the panel correctly for proper adhesion.
DUB
#5
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Originally Posted by DUB
It also depends on how many time the hood has been painted.
I agree...gettign the paint 100% dull will normally do just fine...but not knowing what is going on under what you are scuffing ...may come back and show up. There is a limit to how many mils of paint a panel should have on it to hold out against environmental issues.
I usually check the paint thickness at the edge of the panel...and also the side of this how is s good indicator that IF someone did paint it previously...if the paint wants to flake off....it causes me to have a concern IF they prepped the rest of the panel correctly for proper adhesion.
DUB
I agree...gettign the paint 100% dull will normally do just fine...but not knowing what is going on under what you are scuffing ...may come back and show up. There is a limit to how many mils of paint a panel should have on it to hold out against environmental issues.
I usually check the paint thickness at the edge of the panel...and also the side of this how is s good indicator that IF someone did paint it previously...if the paint wants to flake off....it causes me to have a concern IF they prepped the rest of the panel correctly for proper adhesion.
DUB
#6
Race Director
The paint now is all original and to be honest it is in really good shape. The reason I am painting it is because I cut the front out to make a scoop so it has the be repainted. So I guess that brings up another question since the paint is in such good shape do I really need to prime it since I'm going back with the original color or can I just scuff it and spray over top of it?
Applying a sealer would be helpful...but it is not required....kinda like how when I shoot clear on new Corvette panels that I properly scuffed and I am blending the basecoat into...I do not need to prime on it or even seal on it. The clear can go right back on the clear and stick like crazy as long as it is prepped to 100% dull...and I would use 500 grit wet....if the paint is textured a lot...or possibly use a WET gray Scitch-Brite pad and Comet/Ajax cleanser to get it all dull.
I do not know what type of paint are using so it is hard to say exactly what to prep it with.
DUB
Last edited by DUB; 01-27-2017 at 07:20 PM.
#7
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Originally Posted by DUB
If the paint is how you say it is....you can prep and clean it and paint right on it.
Applying a sealer would be helpful...but it is not required....kinda like how when I shoot clear on new Corvette panels that I properly scuffed and I am blending the basecoat into...I do not need to prime on it or even seal on it. The clear can go right back on the clear and stick like crazy as long as it is prepped to 100% dull...and I would use 500 grit wet....if the paint is textured a lot...or possibly use a WET gray Scitch-Brite pad and Comet/Ajax cleanser to get it all dull.
I do not know what type of paint are using so it is hard to say exactly what to prep it with.
DUB
Applying a sealer would be helpful...but it is not required....kinda like how when I shoot clear on new Corvette panels that I properly scuffed and I am blending the basecoat into...I do not need to prime on it or even seal on it. The clear can go right back on the clear and stick like crazy as long as it is prepped to 100% dull...and I would use 500 grit wet....if the paint is textured a lot...or possibly use a WET gray Scitch-Brite pad and Comet/Ajax cleanser to get it all dull.
I do not know what type of paint are using so it is hard to say exactly what to prep it with.
DUB