roger55

I've got a 2008 and it has a some small chipping in the front from normal highway usage. I'd say it has about a 20 chips total, all small. Two on the driver mirror, one on the hood and the rest on the very front. It's a 26K mile car and other than the chips, the paint is in super condition.

I bought a can of touch-up paint from Automotive Touchup along with some of their Microdabbers. Today I tried to touch up 2 chips in the driver door mirror. Looked worse than just leaving them alone so I polished it back off. I didn't even try to dab any clear on top because I knew this wasn't working with just the color. No harm done as it is just as it was but I'm beginning to think I wasted my money on the paint. I think the color match is probably OK but the metallics don't lay down well at all making the color in the chip appear off. The metallics in this paint are so heavy that they will never mix up totally in the can. They just stay in darker swirls no matter how much you mix it. It's obviously only designed for spraying and not touching up with a dabber.

I think this color may be one that is almost impossible to improve the looks of a chip. I know there are 2 other options out there I could try. One is the Dr. Colorchip and the other Lanka but I wonder if either is worth trying on Atomic Orange.

Any advice will be appreciated.

DUB

I can say...I can get a good match on just about any color...which also depends if the person is willing for me to spend time tinting and test the color by shooting spray out cards...which in some cases can take DAYS.....BUT...I have dealt with the Atomic Orange and it is a RAT BASTARD....the color shifts so much on the angles that getting it to be correct at every angle is a royal PAIN.

I know I would NEVER expect that me using a touch up paint would do any good due to attempting to get the metallic/pearl dispersion correct so it does not look like a booger on the car is about impossible. And I am really good with a paint brush. But I know where to draw the line...because I have a really good eye for color and if it is not right..I feel I am just wasting my time.

Keep in mind there are 'things ' in paint matching that are called VARIANTS. These variants are the different Atomic Oranges that came out of the factory because there is NO WAY that the Atomic orange shot on one day is the EXACT SAME as the Atomic Orange shot a month or two later. SO....these 'color chip' companies have no clue on knowing which variant you have....so...the color will more than likely NOT match.

Keep in mind each variant is a color that is different from the actual PRIME color that the car is supposed to be painted. The color can have more white, black, blue, green, red and yellow in it depending on the color itself. It can be CLEANER and LIGHTER on the angle. SO.....here is something I would really like for you to take the time to do.

CALL 1-800-647-6050. That is PPG/Nexa support. Wait till you hear the prompter that will let you get to the color library or the information about paint colors. PLEASE have you "WA" paint code number handy. I believe it should be a WA-418P. THAT is very important. When you get to the color library....they ill ask you which system. ASK for 'NEXA 2K'. Then ask them how many variants they have for that color ( Atomic Orange) Then ask them for 'PPG DBU' and PPG Global'...and see how many variants that they have for teh atomic orange in those paint systems. It may shock you and will confirm what I just spent the time to type is valid.

NOW...PPG has a color lab that can take a part of your car and get you a color that is a 'bendable match'. Often times paint and body shops will send in panels so the color can be derived. This dose take time but what it does is makes it so the variant database is saved and IF another panel off an Atomic Orange car panel comes in and one of the previous mixed variants that the color lab has already done and saved did match it...THEN...That color will be added to the variant decks I have that are filled with thousands of colors. Because as I was told...it takes TWO panels of the same variant to make it onto an actual painted color chip for me to look at.

DUB

roger55

Thanks for all that time it took for you to give me your thoughts.
I understand what you are saying about trying to get a match for a general repair but my chips just aren't bad enough to justify filling them and do a spray blending with blending clear, base and clear which I guess is the way a shop would deal with them.
I guess my goal would just be to make some level of improvement by using a dabbing method. With the base paint I have, it is way more of a problem with the metallics than it is a paint match. I can't get the metallics to spread out at all like they do in a spray. They just bunch up and make it look too dark. So what I'm trying to do wont work even if the paint were miraculously a perfect match.

DUB

NOT REALLY...it may require you to obtain some of the solvent used in your touch up paint ( which should be able to be found in the MSDS sheet that HAS to be on that product)....add a drop or two to some of it you put in a super cup or cap off a water bottle and then try it again.

It has so much also to do with possibly changing your technique...in regards to how much actual paint you are trying to apply. I am sure you are aware of this but just keep in mind that there is no rule saying that you have to have the brush loaded up and the paint dripping off of it to apply it. Trying to brush in a paint that was atomized when it was applied DOES take a bit of messing around with.

DUB

roger55

Thanks Dub. You went from saying impossible to me trying some different techniques and I may try doing what you say. The paint already seems very thin already though. This paint from Automotive Touchup may be pre thinned. I don't know.

Have you ever tried the Dr. Colorchip stuff? They must have some sort of proprietary paint as it's a fast dry, slow cure product.

I posted over in the C6 general section and just asked if anybody has ever tried to touch up AO themselves. Nobody has answered that has done it. I was hoping that someone would answer that's tried either the Dr. Colorchip or Lanka product versus the method I'm trying.

dmaxx3500

can we get touch-up from GM?,,if so use that,and find a book of paper matchs,and use that for a brush

clean the chip with isopropal alcohol,then dab in a little paint,let it dry and dab in a little more

o'ya make sure its warm 65-75 degs,and leave it in the sun afterwards to dry

roger55

Yes, I believe this is the one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-GM-A...FX1c1q&vxp=mtr

Those don't need clear coat and is what is recommended to use with the Lanka system. Their special solvent flattens and blends in the paint from the touch-up pen but doesn't affect the surrounding original finish.

This is an option on the table for me but would sure like to hear from someone who has tried it first.

Btw, you might want to try the MicroDabbers instead of book matches. I've done it that old way before many times but these MicroDabbers are definitely better.

dmaxx3500

MicroDabbers,might work,but paper matchs are free,but i'll order some to try

roger55

$7.95 for 100 is almost free!

DUB

I use actual artist brushes...some with only 5 or 6 hairs. Which may seem to be a joke..but in some small chips...that brush is what does the trick.

Sometimes the touch-up paint may need to sit and flash off and thicken a but. Once again...it is all about testing and seeing what works.

Honestly..as I wrote..I do not care where you get your paint from...due to the known variants...getting one that is a perfect match is just dumb luck.

I am quite sure you will achieve what you are looking for.

DUB