Redvette_22

I have a 72 Coupe and I'm trying to repaint the bezels around the Speedo, Tach, AC switch/vents and some steering column parts. All the parts are originally the same color I'm repainting to, but in each case I have fisheye problems. I have used different prep methods on each piece, and still have the same issue. The rattle can states that it has primer already in the paint mixture, and I've even gone to the extent of buying a "primer only" rattle can, and still got the same results...still using different prep methods in each case. I would appreciate any recommendations or suggestions on how to do this.

SG Lou

Fisheye is usually always a silicone contamination problem but I have seen oil cause the same problem. Did you clean the parts well with a degreaser such as Prep-Sol before you started painting ?

Naphtha is also a good degreaser if you can't find Prep Sol

DUB

First off.... if years and years of using an interior spray protectant CAN migrate INTO the actual paint ..and thus...it will fisheye.

3 ways of stopping this.

1.) Apply a VERY LIGHT COAT of paint...and I mean very light. You may need to apply 10 coats. But what this is doing is allowing the paint to go on but in such a light film that it can not have enough of itself to create a fisheye. REMEMBER...lighter/thinner coats dry faster than a good coat that was pounded on heavy.

Then...once you have it to color and enough coats on it you can begin to increase the amount you apply. BUT...BE CAREFUL...if you get impatient and put too much paint on too soon...the solvents in the aerosol paint will work their way down to you FIRST coat you applied and ..WHAM....FISHEYES. It is hard for me to type out a tutorial on using aerosol paints...but IF you feel the texture is getting too rough. All I can say it has so much to do with the temperature at the time of painting the part...the temperature of the paint itself and the distance from the part you are spraying and teh travel speed of the can when applying it.

2). Remove the paint...thus meaning strip all paint of these parts and start from scratch.

3.) All the wax and grease remover, Dawn, degreaser, etc will not stop this because as like I wrote...the actual paint is now contaminated with silicone. The ONLY other way is to use mixed automotive paint that you spray out of a paint gun and add fisheye eliminator to it...but...that also may not work if the contamination is that bad....and that also is a less than desirable method...but some peoepl choose to do it that way.

I will let you decide.

DUB

****DISCLAIMER****
By applying the paint on lightly as described in option 1...You are trying to get around an evident problem....so if the paint flakes off in a few months. You were warned due to possible lack of proper adhesion due the coats of paint could not achieve a good bite due to being applied very lightly. Seeing how I am not there to see how they are prepped...I am just saying...it can happen.

Josh67

I've used a product called polycracker to clean unpainted interior parts that had been contaminated with silicone.

porchdog

hot soapy water with dawn soap .

DUB

I still have some from when the dealership applied that B.S. paint protectant and if you had to paint the car...you HAD TO get that silicone crap off...because if you did not do it....the paint would literally fly off in sheets. Funny thing also was the paint would not fisheye if you did not remove it with the polycracker. It WAS the only thing that worked because many of us in different body shop tried everything and nothing worked as well as the 'polycracker' stuff.

DUB