Advice needed for good street/strip setup - NJ 1/4 mile guys please step in ---->
05-02-2012, 02:51 PM
#1
Melting Slicks
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Opinions needed for good street/strip setup - NJ 1/4 mile guys please step in ----->
Rob Z, Gary, Paint it black vette, 98tadriver - I hope you guys read this:
I had the pleasure of meeting several of you last year during the ATCO track rental on 9/16/11.
I was the guy that made the ribs.
If was my first time ever on a track, and my setup and best time were as follows:
1998 A4 Vert w/ 2:73's
Stage II Jet Performance Module, Vararam CAI, TB coolant bypass, 180 stat, VR-3 velocity stack, Borla X-pipe and B&B Bullets (quad tips).
Tires: GY Runflats @ 25psi
R/T: .095
60': 1.977
330: 5.501
1/8: 8.354
MPH: 86.44
1000: 10.836
1/4: 12.953
MPH: 107.10
OK, so for 2012 I'm hoping to make it back to ATCO, and would like to start planning my next stage of upgrades. I mainly run the car on the street, and not too much highway. Only a couple thousand miles a year, tops (not my DD). My goal is to gain more SOTP and spirited driving on the street, and also be able to attend a couple track rentals a year and get into the low 11's (like 98tadriver for example). Before throwing more power into the motor, I'd like to beef up the drivetrain a bit first.
For the rear, I am considering an RKT56 built diff w/ 3.42 gears, and C6Z06 shafts, clutches, springs, pinion carrier, seals.
For the trans, I am considering a Yank 3200 stall converter.
Along with those two mods, I'm thinking of tying it all together with the following:
ECS - Trans Brace
Pfadt - Trans brace, sways, control arm poly bushing kit.
****-can the Jet Performance module, and get mail-order tune from ECS.
My question to those of you who have been there and done that, is would you recommend a different setup (3.73's, Yank 3600, etc...) or does the setup I have listed sound about right for street / occasional strip? I have since ditched the runcraps, and installed a set of Michelin PS2, 245/40-17 front and 315/30-18 rear. For track days I'll most likely mount drag radials in the back on extra wheels.
In order to better answer, I'll outline my future plans for 2013 as well:
XS power - LT headers and X-pipe w/cats
Pfadt - engine mounts
Elite Engineering - tunnel plate
Unknown - Intake / throttle body combo and appropriate fuel delivery upgrades.
160 degree stat
ECS - Dyno / street tune after swapping out 1998 PCM in favor of newer upgrade.
If you made it this far, thanks for reading and hopefully giving this some serious thought.
I had the pleasure of meeting several of you last year during the ATCO track rental on 9/16/11.
I was the guy that made the ribs.
If was my first time ever on a track, and my setup and best time were as follows:
1998 A4 Vert w/ 2:73's
Stage II Jet Performance Module, Vararam CAI, TB coolant bypass, 180 stat, VR-3 velocity stack, Borla X-pipe and B&B Bullets (quad tips).
Tires: GY Runflats @ 25psi
R/T: .095
60': 1.977
330: 5.501
1/8: 8.354
MPH: 86.44
1000: 10.836
1/4: 12.953
MPH: 107.10
OK, so for 2012 I'm hoping to make it back to ATCO, and would like to start planning my next stage of upgrades. I mainly run the car on the street, and not too much highway. Only a couple thousand miles a year, tops (not my DD). My goal is to gain more SOTP and spirited driving on the street, and also be able to attend a couple track rentals a year and get into the low 11's (like 98tadriver for example). Before throwing more power into the motor, I'd like to beef up the drivetrain a bit first.
For the rear, I am considering an RKT56 built diff w/ 3.42 gears, and C6Z06 shafts, clutches, springs, pinion carrier, seals.
For the trans, I am considering a Yank 3200 stall converter.
Along with those two mods, I'm thinking of tying it all together with the following:
ECS - Trans Brace
Pfadt - Trans brace, sways, control arm poly bushing kit.
****-can the Jet Performance module, and get mail-order tune from ECS.
My question to those of you who have been there and done that, is would you recommend a different setup (3.73's, Yank 3600, etc...) or does the setup I have listed sound about right for street / occasional strip? I have since ditched the runcraps, and installed a set of Michelin PS2, 245/40-17 front and 315/30-18 rear. For track days I'll most likely mount drag radials in the back on extra wheels.
In order to better answer, I'll outline my future plans for 2013 as well:
XS power - LT headers and X-pipe w/cats
Pfadt - engine mounts
Elite Engineering - tunnel plate
Unknown - Intake / throttle body combo and appropriate fuel delivery upgrades.
160 degree stat
ECS - Dyno / street tune after swapping out 1998 PCM in favor of newer upgrade.
If you made it this far, thanks for reading and hopefully giving this some serious thought.
Last edited by DropTheTop; 05-03-2012 at 08:26 AM.
05-03-2012, 12:33 AM
#2
Procharged F1X 7.18 @ 197
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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11
Rob Z, Gary, Paint it black vette, 98tadriver - I hope you guys read this:
I had the pleasure of meeting several of you last year during the ATCO track rental on 9/16/11.
I was the guy that made the ribs.
If was my first time ever on a track, and my setup and best time were as follows:
1998 A4 Vert w/ 2:73's
Stage II Jet Performance Module, Vararam CAI, TB coolant bypass, 180 stat, VR-3 velocity stack, Borla X-pipe and B&B Bullets (quad tips).
Tires: GY Runflats @ 25psi
R/T: .095
60': 1.977
330: 5.501
1/8: 8.354
MPH: 86.44
1000: 10.836
1/4: 12.953
MPH: 107.10
OK, so for 2012 I'm hoping to make it back to ATCO, and would like to start planning my next stage of upgrades. I mainly run the car on the street, and not too much highway. Only a couple thousand miles a year, tops (not my DD). My goal is to gain more SOTP and spirited driving on the street, and also be able to attend a couple track rentals a year and get into the low 11's (like 98tadriver for example). Before throwing more power into the motor, I'd like to beef up the drivetrain a bit first.
For the rear, I am considering an RKT56 built diff w/ 3.42 gears, and C6Z06 shafts, clutches, springs, pinion carrier, seals.
For the trans, I am considering a Yank 3200 stall converter.
Along with those two mods, I'm thinking of tying it all together with the following:
ECS - Trans Brace
Pfadt - Trans brace, sways, control arm poly bushing kit.
****-can the Jet Performance module, and get mail-order tune from ECS.
My question to those of you who have been there and done that, is would you recommend a different setup (3.73's, Yank 3600, etc...) or does the setup I have listed sound about right for street / occasional strip? I have since ditched the runcraps, and installed a set of Michelin PS2, 245/40-17 front and 315/30-18 rear. For track days I'll most likely mount drag radials in the back on extra wheels.
In order to better answer, I'll outline my future plans for 2013 as well:
XS power - LT headers and X-pipe w/cats
Pfadt - engine mounts
Elite Engineering - tunnel plate
Unknown - Intake / throttle body combo and appropriate fuel delivery upgrades.
160 degree stat
ECS - Dyno / street tune after swapping out 1998 PCM in favor of newer upgrade.
If you made it this far, thanks for reading and hopefully giving this some serious thought.
I had the pleasure of meeting several of you last year during the ATCO track rental on 9/16/11.
I was the guy that made the ribs.
If was my first time ever on a track, and my setup and best time were as follows:
1998 A4 Vert w/ 2:73's
Stage II Jet Performance Module, Vararam CAI, TB coolant bypass, 180 stat, VR-3 velocity stack, Borla X-pipe and B&B Bullets (quad tips).
Tires: GY Runflats @ 25psi
R/T: .095
60': 1.977
330: 5.501
1/8: 8.354
MPH: 86.44
1000: 10.836
1/4: 12.953
MPH: 107.10
OK, so for 2012 I'm hoping to make it back to ATCO, and would like to start planning my next stage of upgrades. I mainly run the car on the street, and not too much highway. Only a couple thousand miles a year, tops (not my DD). My goal is to gain more SOTP and spirited driving on the street, and also be able to attend a couple track rentals a year and get into the low 11's (like 98tadriver for example). Before throwing more power into the motor, I'd like to beef up the drivetrain a bit first.
For the rear, I am considering an RKT56 built diff w/ 3.42 gears, and C6Z06 shafts, clutches, springs, pinion carrier, seals.
For the trans, I am considering a Yank 3200 stall converter.
Along with those two mods, I'm thinking of tying it all together with the following:
ECS - Trans Brace
Pfadt - Trans brace, sways, control arm poly bushing kit.
****-can the Jet Performance module, and get mail-order tune from ECS.
My question to those of you who have been there and done that, is would you recommend a different setup (3.73's, Yank 3600, etc...) or does the setup I have listed sound about right for street / occasional strip? I have since ditched the runcraps, and installed a set of Michelin PS2, 245/40-17 front and 315/30-18 rear. For track days I'll most likely mount drag radials in the back on extra wheels.
In order to better answer, I'll outline my future plans for 2013 as well:
XS power - LT headers and X-pipe w/cats
Pfadt - engine mounts
Elite Engineering - tunnel plate
Unknown - Intake / throttle body combo and appropriate fuel delivery upgrades.
160 degree stat
ECS - Dyno / street tune after swapping out 1998 PCM in favor of newer upgrade.
If you made it this far, thanks for reading and hopefully giving this some serious thought.
I don't think they liked the ribs since they aren't responding.
Now that I have dispensed with the humor. The most important thing is that you had a great time at ATCO and that you have a well laid out plan to improve the performance of your car.
There is nothing wrong with the mods you listed and of course there are other options you can take. I would do the 2013 mods in conjunction with the 2012 mods if it is in your budget. Your listed mods should put you in the 11's.
05-03-2012, 02:38 AM
#3
Team Owner
1998 A4 Vert w/ 2:73's
Stage II Jet Performance Module, Vararam CAI, TB coolant bypass, 180 stat, VR-3 velocity stack, Borla X-pipe and B&B Bullets (quad tips).
Tires: GY Runflats @ 25psi
For the rear, I am considering an RKT56 built diff w/ 3.42 gears, and C6Z06 shafts, clutches, springs, pinion carrier, seals.
For the trans, I am considering a Yank 3200 stall converter.
Along with those two mods, I'm thinking of tying it all together with the following:
ECS - Trans Brace
Pfadt - Trans brace, sways, control arm poly bushing kit.
****-can the Jet Performance module, and get mail-order tune from ECS.
My question to those of you who have been there and done that, is would you recommend a different setup (3.73's, Yank 3600, etc...) or does the setup I have listed sound about right for street / occasional strip? I have since ditched the runcraps, and installed a set of Michelin PS2, 245/40-17 front and 315/30-18 rear. For track days I'll most likely mount drag radials in the back on extra wheels.
In order to better answer, I'll outline my future plans for 2013 as well:
XS power - LT headers and X-pipe w/cats
Pfadt - engine mounts
Elite Engineering - tunnel plate
Unknown - Intake / throttle body combo and appropriate fuel delivery upgrades.
160 degree stat
ECS - Dyno / street tune after swapping out 1998 PCM in favor of newer upgrade.
Stage II Jet Performance Module, Vararam CAI, TB coolant bypass, 180 stat, VR-3 velocity stack, Borla X-pipe and B&B Bullets (quad tips).
Tires: GY Runflats @ 25psi
For the rear, I am considering an RKT56 built diff w/ 3.42 gears, and C6Z06 shafts, clutches, springs, pinion carrier, seals.
For the trans, I am considering a Yank 3200 stall converter.
Along with those two mods, I'm thinking of tying it all together with the following:
ECS - Trans Brace
Pfadt - Trans brace, sways, control arm poly bushing kit.
****-can the Jet Performance module, and get mail-order tune from ECS.
My question to those of you who have been there and done that, is would you recommend a different setup (3.73's, Yank 3600, etc...) or does the setup I have listed sound about right for street / occasional strip? I have since ditched the runcraps, and installed a set of Michelin PS2, 245/40-17 front and 315/30-18 rear. For track days I'll most likely mount drag radials in the back on extra wheels.
In order to better answer, I'll outline my future plans for 2013 as well:
XS power - LT headers and X-pipe w/cats
Pfadt - engine mounts
Elite Engineering - tunnel plate
Unknown - Intake / throttle body combo and appropriate fuel delivery upgrades.
160 degree stat
ECS - Dyno / street tune after swapping out 1998 PCM in favor of newer upgrade.
The 3200 stall and 3.42 gears will make for an awesome street/strip combo while retaining great fuel economy and quieter highway traveling (lower RPMs). But the 3600 stall and 3.73 gears will make it even quicker and since you're going in there already that's what I would suggest going with.Drag radials will be a must for the track after the converter and gears go in and a set of skinnies will help reduce ETs a little more and grab some extra MPH.
LOL
Oh we certainly LOVED the ribs, they were awesome and helped make an already awesome track rental that much better, thanks again DropTheTop.
05-03-2012, 08:22 AM
#4
Melting Slicks
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Location: No place to legally ride ATV's NJ
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You're definitely on the right track in my opinion. The 3200 stall and 3.42 gears will make for an awesome street/strip combo while retaining great fuel economy and quieter highway traveling (lower RPMs). But the 3600 stall and 3.73 gears will make it even quicker and since you're going in there already that's what I would suggest going with.
Drag radials will be a must for the track after the converter and gears go in and a set of skinnies will help reduce ETs a little more and grab some extra MPH.
The 3200 stall and 3.42 gears will make for an awesome street/strip combo while retaining great fuel economy and quieter highway traveling (lower RPMs). But the 3600 stall and 3.73 gears will make it even quicker and since you're going in there already that's what I would suggest going with.Drag radials will be a must for the track after the converter and gears go in and a set of skinnies will help reduce ETs a little more and grab some extra MPH.
As for the skinnies, I read some people are using the GTO spares with M&H 185/55/17's. This sounds like a nice way to have a couple spares in the event I get a flat, and also have an affordable track setup. Can you actually drive on the street with those tires, like 20 miles or so??
I'm glad you enjoyed the ribs!
05-03-2012, 08:55 AM
#6
AMP Racing
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13.49 is the roll bar limit. That is sometimes overlooked at some events on some tracks - so I've heard... But I wouldn't count on it.
OP, your plan is a good one. Converter and gears first with a good tune from the guys at ECS and your car will wake up nicely. It'll still be a joy to drive anywhere as well. I would likely stick with 3.42 gears, as they will be a nice change from what you're used to and with your long term goal of FI.
If you were going for a max effort NA build, I'd certainly suggest a larger stall and shorter gears.
Put a good drag radial on it for your track visits.
Low 11s is not an easy task to do with just bolt ons.
Good luck with your quest.
OP, your plan is a good one. Converter and gears first with a good tune from the guys at ECS and your car will wake up nicely. It'll still be a joy to drive anywhere as well. I would likely stick with 3.42 gears, as they will be a nice change from what you're used to and with your long term goal of FI.
If you were going for a max effort NA build, I'd certainly suggest a larger stall and shorter gears.
Put a good drag radial on it for your track visits.
Low 11s is not an easy task to do with just bolt ons.
Good luck with your quest.
05-03-2012, 09:07 AM
#7
Melting Slicks
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^ Well, I'm not completely sure I want to go FI in the future. I'm actually thinking mid 11's with H/C setup will more satisfy my desire for that old muscle car feel and sound. Maybe go with the 3.42's but step up to the 3600 stall??
Any idea if running with a Smoothline hardtop would be a legal option over a roll bar?
Any idea if running with a Smoothline hardtop would be a legal option over a roll bar?
05-03-2012, 09:43 AM
#8
AMP Racing
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At most tracks, a smoothline (or other brand) hardtop is good to 11.50
3.42 with a 3600 stall sounds like a good idea.
I'm not too sure I'd take any advise from me though. I've never driven a stalled auto until 4 days ago... I have a 4000 Yank and 3.42s. It's a bit different than I expected - even though I'm not sure whhat I expected. I do like it though.
I have a mild cam and my heads had a valve job and milling at D&F Perfromance in Berlin NJ.
I built my car for one purpose - to run 11.50 in any weather conditions (except snow)
It's probably a bit overkill, but I wanted to err on the side of overkill, as opposed to not running 11.50 in 95+ degree weather.
3.42 with a 3600 stall sounds like a good idea.
I'm not too sure I'd take any advise from me though. I've never driven a stalled auto until 4 days ago... I have a 4000 Yank and 3.42s. It's a bit different than I expected - even though I'm not sure whhat I expected. I do like it though.
I have a mild cam and my heads had a valve job and milling at D&F Perfromance in Berlin NJ.
I built my car for one purpose - to run 11.50 in any weather conditions (except snow)
It's probably a bit overkill, but I wanted to err on the side of overkill, as opposed to not running 11.50 in 95+ degree weather.
05-03-2012, 09:53 AM
#9
Le Mans Master
At most tracks, a smoothline (or other brand) hardtop is good to 11.50
3.42 with a 3600 stall sounds like a good idea.
I'm not too sure I'd take any advise from me though. I've never driven a stalled auto until 4 days ago... I have a 4000 Yank and 3.42s. It's a bit different than I expected - even though I'm not sure whhat I expected. I do like it though.I have a mild cam and my heads had a valve job and milling at D&F Perfromance in Berlin NJ.
I built my car for one purpose - to run 11.50 in any weather conditions (except snow)
It's probably a bit overkill, but I wanted to err on the side of overkill, as opposed to not running 11.50 in 95+ degree weather.
3.42 with a 3600 stall sounds like a good idea.
I'm not too sure I'd take any advise from me though. I've never driven a stalled auto until 4 days ago... I have a 4000 Yank and 3.42s. It's a bit different than I expected - even though I'm not sure whhat I expected. I do like it though.I have a mild cam and my heads had a valve job and milling at D&F Perfromance in Berlin NJ.
I built my car for one purpose - to run 11.50 in any weather conditions (except snow)
It's probably a bit overkill, but I wanted to err on the side of overkill, as opposed to not running 11.50 in 95+ degree weather.
05-03-2012, 10:04 AM
#10
Safety Car
13.49 is the roll bar limit. That is sometimes overlooked at some events on some tracks - so I've heard... But I wouldn't count on it.
OP, your plan is a good one. Converter and gears first with a good tune from the guys at ECS and your car will wake up nicely. It'll still be a joy to drive anywhere as well. I would likely stick with 3.42 gears, as they will be a nice change from what you're used to and with your long term goal of FI.
If you were going for a max effort NA build, I'd certainly suggest a larger stall and shorter gears.
Put a good drag radial on it for your track visits.
Low 11s is not an easy task to do with just bolt ons.
Good luck with your quest.
OP, your plan is a good one. Converter and gears first with a good tune from the guys at ECS and your car will wake up nicely. It'll still be a joy to drive anywhere as well. I would likely stick with 3.42 gears, as they will be a nice change from what you're used to and with your long term goal of FI.
If you were going for a max effort NA build, I'd certainly suggest a larger stall and shorter gears.
Put a good drag radial on it for your track visits.
Low 11s is not an easy task to do with just bolt ons.
Good luck with your quest.
So, with the mods in my .sig, I hope to get booted the first full pass. I won't put a bar in it until I need to. Problem is, I have been breaking the rules at my track for 30 years, they won't be looking the other way! Ha!
Of course my car hasn't turned a tire yet. Turned out to be a bigger project than I thought......another month or so.
Ron
05-03-2012, 04:30 PM
#11
Le Mans Master
My goal is to gain more SOTP and spirited driving on the street, and also be able to attend a couple track rentals a year and get into the low 11's (like 98tadriver for example). Before throwing more power into the motor, I'd like to beef up the drivetrain a bit first.
You can get a 3:42 Z06 rear installed for about 1200 at a local shop, the seat of the pants (SOTP) will amaze you for a while going from the 2:73's to 3:42's alone!
My question to those of you who have been there and done that, is would you recommend a different setup (3.73's, Yank 3600, etc...) or does the setup I have listed sound about right for street / occasional strip?
I had the 2:73's then 3:42's and now the 3:73's. I went with the Z06 rear and a little later just upgraded to 3:73's. I would recommend putting in the higher stall and 3:73's ONLY if you were taking it to the track more then once or twice a year ...
For track days I'll most likely mount drag radials in the back on extra wheels.
In order to better answer, I'll outline my future plans for 2013 as well:
XS power - LT headers and X-pipe w/cats
Pfadt - engine mounts - not needed
Elite Engineering - tunnel plate
Unknown - Intake / throttle body combo and appropriate fuel delivery upgrades.
160 degree stat - not needed I know some tuners like the lower temp stat but the motor runs (optimal) at about 183* - i'm running 185* stat but have EWP
ECS - Dyno / street tune after swapping out 1998 PCM in favor of newer upgrade. Good idea but the PCM may not be needed yet ... we changed my PCM mostly because my "98" didn't like to be data-loged and would shut-down when shifting into second while trying to collect data on runs. You will pick up a little but the $$$ could be used elsewhere in the motor to build Hp ..., My "98" ran a 10.76 with the older PCM
my 2 cents
Last edited by Rob Petyo; 05-03-2012 at 04:35 PM. Reason: added times
05-03-2012, 04:49 PM
#12
Melting Slicks
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^ Thanks, some great info there. That's just the kind of feedback I'm looking for.
I figured on the Pfadt engine mounts when I get the headers put in. They take so much shake out of the motor, I figured what a great time to do it. Why aren't they needed?
If I don't really need the 160 stat, I'll just leave the 180 stat in.
As for the PCM, I just figured for a couple hundred more bucks for the upgrade, ECS could have more tuning options. I'll confirm with them when the time is right.
Thanks Hot_Wheels!
I figured on the Pfadt engine mounts when I get the headers put in. They take so much shake out of the motor, I figured what a great time to do it. Why aren't they needed?
If I don't really need the 160 stat, I'll just leave the 180 stat in.
As for the PCM, I just figured for a couple hundred more bucks for the upgrade, ECS could have more tuning options. I'll confirm with them when the time is right.
Thanks Hot_Wheels!
05-03-2012, 04:59 PM
#13
Le Mans Master
Don't get me wrong, I think the Pfadt work well at my power level. Paint it Black also has them! We replaced the motor mounts when things started to go "BANG" in the rear from the torque catching up in the drive-train. If you get to that level ... you will definitely know what *-bang-* I'm talking about. They do shake the car slightly more and any vibrations sometimes can be seen through your side and rear-view mirrors.
05-03-2012, 07:11 PM
#15
AMP Racing
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An option for a happy medium on engine mounts are the Hinson Motorsports urethane mounts. I just put a set in my car. My build is more geared towards street able fun as opposed to max effort like hot wheels and PIB.
But with 157,000 miles on my stock ones, they were shot.
But with 157,000 miles on my stock ones, they were shot.
05-03-2012, 07:25 PM
#16
Melting Slicks
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Hmmm....interesting. I'll look into those, thanks. I definitely think I should replace the stock mounts with something better, before shoehorning LT headers.
05-03-2012, 08:33 PM
#19
Le Mans Master
the nature on the harder polyurethane doesn't allow the control arms to absorb shock/vibrations like the OEM rubber ones.
it's stiffer but mine handles like its on rails especially with the hotchkis sway bars. it also keeps the rears flatter/straighter on the ground (trying to keep more rubber on the track).
my 2 cents
it's stiffer but mine handles like its on rails especially with the hotchkis sway bars. it also keeps the rears flatter/straighter on the ground (trying to keep more rubber on the track).
my 2 cents