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manual 60' list....

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Old 08-09-2012, 09:10 PM
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LSOHOLIC
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Originally Posted by PRE-Z06
Heavier clutch is easier to launch as well and the moi helps on shifts IMO if the track is holding...
Originally Posted by PRE-Z06



Also I'll add getting a clutch that 60' the best may not last the longest. I believe rattg ram twin organic only held up to 20 passes. I dont claim to be a great, but did put all the different combos in the 1.5x just had to make little driving adjustments for it to happen. Sincerely, Chris
yep...yeah I hear ya..........heavier is easier....but is it quicker with an experienced driver ??

It would be interesting to hear every bodies opinion on the weight issue....regardless of clutch manufacture or base material. Some is good put to much of a good thing is bad....LOL
Old 08-09-2012, 09:18 PM
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123sugey
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How about light weight rotating assembly rods pistons etc ?! Lighter is better. Would this be true and equal with a flywheel/clutch ?
I love the motor singing up there with a light flywheel
Old 08-09-2012, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by LSOHOLIC
[B]

yep...yeah I hear ya..........heavier is easier....but is it quicker with an experienced driver ??

It would be interesting to hear every bodies opinion on the weight issue....regardless of clutch manufacture or base material. Some is good put to much of a good thing is bad....LOL
The lighter clutch has to be launched at a higher rpm to cut the same 60' from my experience, this of course induces more heat from more slippage necessary to match wheel speed with engine rpms. A lighter clutch also makes it easier to bog the car or blow the tires off depending of course on your power curve and the track prep. If you always run at track rentals then it may be easier to be consistent. The 22lb clutch was great for road racing because of the faster acceleration/deceleration and rev matching, but not drag racing imho. The dyno gains of the super light clutch didn't show up at the track.
Old 08-09-2012, 10:40 PM
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Originally Posted by PRE-Z06
The lighter clutch has to be launched at a higher rpm to cut the same 60' from my experience, this of course induces more heat from more slippage necessary to match wheel speed with engine rpms. A lighter clutch also makes it easier to bog the car or blow the tires off depending of course on your power curve and the track prep. If you always run at track rentals then it may be easier to be consistent. The 22lb clutch was great for road racing because of the faster acceleration/deceleration and rev matching, but not drag racing imho. The dyno gains of the super light clutch didn't show up at the track.
Yeah I was kind of being a smartazz........but contrary to this ^^^^, a bog I can see, but a heavier flywheel would actually "hit" the tire harder, thus blowing the tires off...IMO.
LOL...just like everything in life....moderation is key...LOL...To light and it sounds like a F1 car leaving the pits (reving to 6k just to move the car an inch)..go the other way (heavy) and it hits like a ton of bricks...jumping out of the hole.

"Flywheels in motion tend to remain in motion."
"Flywheels at rest tend to remain at rest."
"It is hard to stop a flywheel, the heavier it is, the harder yet."

"And it is rotational inertia (moment of inertia) times rpm that gives you the kinetic energy." (Power= T * rpm)


Good read.....
http://www.popularhotrodding.com/fea...e/viewall.html



Thanks.............
Old 08-09-2012, 11:13 PM
  #45  
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The flywheel is primarily an inertia device. As the flywheel spins it stores energy or inertia that helps move the mass of the vehicle as you engage the clutch.

Factory flywheels are designed to apply the optimum amount of stored energy to provide good drivability for the vehicle. Vehicles with smaller engines have relatively heavy flywheels due to the extra inertia needed for a smooth transition to engagement. Reducing the weight of the flywheel, while increasing performance, could reduce the drivability of the vehicle.

Under racing conditions, the flywheel weight can be used to control the inertia applied to the drivetrain. For instance, if a vehicle tends to ‘bog’ upon engagement of the clutch, increasing the flywheel weight will increase the inertia needed to launch the vehicle smoothly. Too much flywheel weight may cause excessive inertia to be applied, causing the tires to spin. Reducing flywheel weight under this condition will reduce the inertia applied to the vehicle and allow smoother acceleration.

Aluminum flywheels are used in drag racing high horsepower applications which require the clutch to slip as the vehicle leaves the line. Steel flywheels are used primarily in street driven vehicles.

Other load factors can effect flywheel selection, such as rear gearing or transmission gearing. With the abundance of gearing choices available today, it is possible to use almost any flywheel if the proper selection of gears is made. This was not always the case – in the 70’s when the gearing choices were not available, racers had no choice but to use the flywheel weight to control the vehicles on launch. It is more efficient to use a light flywheel and proper gearing than to use tall gearing and a heavier flywheel.

What is the rear end gearing? Lower (higher numerically) gears will make engaging the clutch easier, while higher gearing requires the clutch to be slipped more on takeoff for a smooth transition.

Selecting the proper flywheel helps you achieve the drivability you desire for your vehicle. Heavy street cars will benefit from a heavier flywheel to generate the inertia to get you moving. An aluminum flywheel will not generate as much inertia to move the vehicle, and thus it would be necessary to slip the clutch more on takeoff. Some street vehicles may benefit from a lighter flywheel, but only if there is enough rear gear to help you transition the clutch smoothly without excessive slippage.

Remember what the flywheel’s job is – to help you get the car accelerating smoothly. If you have ever driven a vehicle and tried to pull off in second gear, you know you had to slip the clutch significantly more to get moving than if you started in low. This is the same effect you would notice if the flywheel is too light.~per Pat Norcia
Old 08-09-2012, 11:33 PM
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It's a finer line of getting it right with a lighter flywheel because the engine will rev faster and you should be accelerating into the launch
Old 08-14-2012, 09:09 PM
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Originally Posted by PRE-Z06
It's a finer line of getting it right with a lighter flywheel because the engine will rev faster and you should be accelerating into the launch
So........while the clutch is fully engaged the use of a light weight clutch and flywheel assembly is definitely advantageous.
But during the shift phase the heavier clutch and flywheel can pay back a greater amount of stored energy than the light weight setup can.
If more rpm is used with the setup then the difference in stored energy can be compensated for.

The $64,000 question is does the stored energy of the heavier setup, which is available for launch and each subsequent upward shift, compensate for the reduced output during the clutch engagement periods.

I only scenario I could see where a heavier flywheel would payoff is when the first gear is very high and there is no chance of a decent 60' time without the aid of a massive amount of stored flywheel energy.

I will get back to you on my outcome..........and obviously this is not only affected by the mass involved but also by the distance from the center of rotation....thus the slower it can be accelerated by a given torque... ~per D.V.



Thanks..............
Old 08-15-2012, 11:46 AM
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Exactly, you have a good grasp now just put it to practice. Looking forward to your results, let me know if you come down this way.
Originally Posted by LSOHOLIC
So........while the clutch is fully engaged the use of a light weight clutch and flywheel assembly is definitely advantageous.
But during the shift phase the heavier clutch and flywheel can pay back a greater amount of stored energy than the light weight setup can.
If more rpm is used with the setup then the difference in stored energy can be compensated for.

The $64,000 question is does the stored energy of the heavier setup, which is available for launch and each subsequent upward shift, compensate for the reduced output during the clutch engagement periods.

I only scenario I could see where a heavier flywheel would payoff is when the first gear is very high and there is no chance of a decent 60' time without the aid of a massive amount of stored flywheel energy.

I will get back to you on my outcome..........and obviously this is not only affected by the mass involved but also by the distance from the center of rotation....thus the slower it can be accelerated by a given torque... ~per D.V.



Thanks..............
Old 08-30-2012, 08:14 PM
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Thanks for the 60's list. Hoping to get under that 1.46 with winter.
Old 08-30-2012, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by TransAm2002
Thanks for the 60's list. Hoping to get under that 1.46 with winter.
No problem..... I just hated sifting through the original 60' list trying to decide who was auto and was not. And by the way Capthuff does an excellent job with the list and his plate is full.

And if anyone has a 60 to add just post it......and I will update it.



Thanks............
Old 12-24-2012, 11:50 PM
  #51  
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Here's mine.

c5z novi2200 347 forged, bais ply ,rxt clutch.
Old 12-25-2012, 12:17 PM
  #52  
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Please add mine:
1.478 60' NA
MT bias ply 16"
Exo-Skel

Last edited by 123sugey; 01-02-2013 at 05:19 PM.
Old 01-02-2013, 02:50 PM
  #53  
1badfrc99
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1.43 with 26x11.50x16 mt et street on CCW drag pack. Textralia OZ700
Old 01-25-2013, 07:45 PM
  #54  
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Great 60's guys......

Updated......1badfrc, power adder ??

Thanks.......
Old 01-26-2013, 12:30 AM
  #55  
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Nitrous is my power adder
Old 01-26-2013, 01:44 PM
  #56  
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Sorry.. I had MT ET streets on my pass not slicks
Old 01-26-2013, 03:12 PM
  #57  
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10-4....corrected.....

Thanks.....

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To manual 60' list....

Old 05-22-2015, 08:21 PM
  #58  
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Put my car on the Manual list please. Thanks

BTW, the tire used were ET Streets. Power adder is a P-1 Blower.

Thanks
Old 05-23-2015, 10:46 AM
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Brings back some memories, a few updates as you said you'd be back later and it's 2015 lol...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-z06-discussion/2780168-10-369-in-1000ft-da-1-45-60ft.html

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-z06-discussion/1794944-the-c6-z06-fast-list-83.html#post1585505061

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-tech-performance/3558451-new-6-speed-c6z-na-stock-bottom-record.html#post1588202727

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-z06-discussion/3557495-canadian-c6-z06-n-a-cam-only-new-pb.html#post1588188313

Post 1805
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-z06-discussion/1794944-the-c6-z06-fast-list-91.html#post1589098510

Post 1796
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-z06-discussion/1794944-the-c6-z06-fast-list-90.html#post1589077532

Post 1587
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-z06-discussion/1794944-the-c6-z06-fast-list-80.html#post1584465878

Post 1740
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-z06-discussion/1794944-the-c6-z06-fast-list-87.html#post1587778025

Post 7
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-z06-discussion/1794944-the-c6-z06-fast-list.html#post1561648101

Post 1774
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c6-z06-discussion/1794944-the-c6-z06-fast-list-89.html#post1588286387

Need a c7 section as well now...

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c7-z06-discussion/3606303-fasterproms-worlds-first-9-second-2015-c7-z06-9-87-138mph.html

Last edited by PRE-Z06; 05-23-2015 at 11:03 AM.
Old 05-23-2015, 12:59 PM
  #60  
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Sure thing Tsab and PRE-ZO6. I will definitely update the list.

Now, not sure if I will find the time on Memorial day weekend but I will update it soon.



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