Yes, even at 400.

Tom Piper

Leaking schrader valves might be fairly common. In making my rounds yesterday visiting the usual auto parts chain stores I noticed many featured R-134A displays up front along with other fast moving A/C supplies like refrigerants, oil, leak detecting dye, A/C system stop-leak, R-134 can with gauge & quickie low side charging hose and a rack full of blister pack schrader valves!

[IMG]http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o...9412414_tp.jpg[/IMG]
The above is a schrader valve tool purchased recently at a bike shop in Ft. Lauderdale. I used it last week-end to tighten up the valve on my fuel rail.:thumbs:

......NO way......they are designed only to keep dust and dirt out...

.....i have one of these also but, that is good only for tightening or loosening...not good to replace a shrader w/out loosing the charge and if the shrader is leaking and is already tight, this is little good....

For an example, let's assume the cap has a flat end inside with the schrader valve that equates to 10% of a square inch.
At 400 Pounds Per Square Inch pressure inside the A/C system, there would be 10% of that, or 40 pounds of pressure, on the valve cap.

Tom Piper

.......sorry, don't buy it!....:nono:

I can't think of a single thing to add.

Tom Piper

96 LT1

I had to have my A/C evacuated and re-charged last month.

I tired adding 134 (thought system wasn't blowing cold enough) and the schrader valve wouldn't reseal. It continued to allow the 134 to spit out, even with the cap screwed on.

At the A/C shop, the owner told me he sees that problem very often. Seems that many times the valve won't re-seat, so it has to be changed.

So the remaining refrigerant in the system has to be released, system put on a vacuum pump, new valve installed, pressure tested and system recharged.

Cost me a couple of hundred $. I had to have it repaired since it was 100+F at the time.

Jake

.....neither can i.......:thumbs:

Unless that little rubbery butt plug failed completely I don't think the cap would ever see the full wrath of 200psi. While a small leak from that plug and the small volume between the plug and the cap itself could yeald higher pressures, I don't think it would blow it's cork.

...i DON"T agree.....:beatdeadhorse:

Actually, systems just blow up at the weakest part. There is a pressure relief valve on the rear of the head and the Nippo compressor seems to give up it's front seal rather easily. Otherwise, power is cut at 400 psi (you hope - no way to test some of the early switches). Point is that leaks you can see are leaking a lot (and maybe sucking something in when it's working).

Sorry, you are correct.:thumbs: