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-   -   Problem with EBCM & BPMV (https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c5-tech/2056261-problem-with-ebcm-and-bpmv.html)

Marty2000 06-18-2008 06:41 PM

Problem with EBCM & BPMV
 
I took my 2000 in for service because the ABS and traction control warning lights were on. The dealer said that the EBCM was bad. I had him replace it. Then while driving shortly after the repair the lights came on again. Now he says that the BPMV is bad and it will cost $2300 to replace it. He got code C1243 this time.

I am a novice when it comes to Corvettes and need some help.
1. What is wrong.
2. Why did the problem not show when they replaced the electronic unit?
3. Any suggestions, is the BPMV repairable or must it be replaced?
4. What will happen if I do nothing and just drive the car?

Thanks,
Marty

Bill Dearborn 06-18-2008 08:33 PM

Depending on the original failure the diagnostic procedure leads the tech through a series of tests. Depending on the result of those tests the procedure could call for the replacement of the EBCM or both the EBCM and BPMV.

With Code C1243 the system has detected the pump motor running slowly this condition can cause the relay contacts in the EBCM to burn and if it had shown up on the original diagnosis probably would have resulted in both modules being replaced at that time.

There is no way to fix the BPMV so it needs to be replaced. Replacement means removing it from the hydraulic system so when it is replaced the brakes will have to be bled and the BPMV will have to be bled using a Tech 2.

If you do nothing your car will drive just fine. You will still have the base brake system which isn't affected by ABS system failures. However, you will not have ABS or Traction Control.

Bill

BlackZ06 06-18-2008 08:44 PM

SEARCH is your friend on the forum .....

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show...ighlight=C1243

If you're not mechanically inclined then you have 2 choices ...

1) Pay the dealer to fix the problem

2) Drive the car with no ABS or Traction Control (or Active Handling if you have the JL4 option) and the warning light on all the time. You have a brake system, just no safety aids.

:cheers:

Bill Curlee 06-18-2008 09:30 PM


Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn (Post 1565956157)
Depending on the original failure the diagnostic procedure leads the tech through a series of tests. Depending on the result of those tests the procedure could call for the replacement of the EBCM or both the EBCM and BPMV.

With Code C1243 the system has detected the pump motor running slowly this condition can cause the relay contacts in the EBCM to burn and if it had shown up on the original diagnosis probably would have resulted in both modules being replaced at that time.

There is no way to fix the BPMV so it needs to be replaced. Replacement means removing it from the hydraulic system so when it is replaced the brakes will have to be bled and the BPMV will have to be bled using a Tech 2.

If you do nothing your car will drive just fine. You will still have the base brake system which isn't affected by ABS system failures. However, you will not have ABS or Traction Control.

Bill

:iagree: Bill is correct! There are some of us C5 drivers that put our cars through their paces on a regular basis and that will frequently cause the ABS and or Active Handling system to activate and control the brakes. That BPMV "USAGE" keeps things from malfunctioning.

Most Corvette owners are happy just to drive their cars in a way that seldom causes the BPMV motor to function. This allows components inside the brake hydraulic system to stick or act sluggishly.

In an effort to save you some cash you may want to SAFELY try this:

On a day when the roads are wet, (wet roads cause less wear and tear on the car) find a "SAFE" place where you can apply the brakes hard enough to LOCK UP the brakes. Clear ALL the DTCs and once their cleared,,,accelerate to approx 35-40 MPH and brake at full force. This will cause the tires to loose traction and the ANTI LOCK system and or the Active Handling will or should operate. If the system does NOT work normally, and the tires lock up and loose traction, ABORT. If you set a DTC and get a message, turn the ignition off and back on , reset the DTCs and repeat.

If you cant get the system to work normally after 3-4 attempts to cycle the motor,,,,your going to need to bite the bullet and replace the BPMV.

If you attempt to do the braking procedure PLEASE make sure you do it in a SAFE and LEGAL place where you will NOT damage your car.

This has helped quite a few people get their EBTCM and BPMV back in operation without having to replace the BPMV. There have been a few people who it has NOT helped.

Ill let you decide if you want to safely attempt the procedure. :D

Bill C

anniv88 06-22-2008 01:28 PM


Originally Posted by Bill Curlee (Post 1565956946)
:iagree: Bill is correct! There are some of us C5 drivers that put our cars through their paces on a regular basis and that will frequently cause the ABS and or Active Handling system to activate and control the brakes. That BPMV "USAGE" keeps things from malfunctioning.

Most Corvette owners are happy just to drive their cars in a way that seldom causes the BPMV motor to function. This allows components inside the brake hydraulic system to stick or act sluggishly.

In an effort to save you some cash you may want to SAFELY try this:

On a day when the roads are wet, (wet roads cause less wear and tear on the car) find a "SAFE" place where you can apply the brakes hard enough to LOCK UP the brakes. Clear ALL the DTCs and once their cleared,,,accelerate to approx 35-40 MPH and brake at full force. This will cause the tires to loose traction and the ANTI LOCK system and or the Active Handling will or should operate. If the system does NOT work normally, and the tires lock up and loose traction, ABORT. If you set a DTC and get a message, turn the ignition off and back on , reset the DTCs and repeat.

If you cant get the system to work normally after 3-4 attempts to cycle the motor,,,,your going to need to bite the bullet and replace the BPMV.

If you attempt to do the braking procedure PLEASE make sure you do it in a SAFE and LEGAL place where you will NOT damage your car.

This has helped quite a few people get their EBTCM and BPMV back in operation without having to replace the BPMV. There have been a few people who it has NOT helped.

Ill let you decide if you want to safely attempt the procedure. :D

Bill C



Can the same thing be accomplished by doing a burnout and getting
the car to fishtail.
Would this cause the Active Handling to operate?

Gene Culley 06-22-2008 01:43 PM

Or, you could purchase the parts from me for much less and install or have them install!

50yrzo6 06-22-2008 03:45 PM


Originally Posted by BlackZ06 (Post 1565956293)
2) Drive the car with no ABS or Traction Control (or Active Handling if you have the JL4 option) and the warning light on all the time. You have a brake system, just no safety aids.

:cheers:

Can I assume there is no way to disable the warning that flashes up on the DIC?

BlackZ06 06-22-2008 03:56 PM


Originally Posted by 50yrzo6 (Post 1566003355)
Can I assume there is no way to disable the warning that flashes up on the DIC?

That's correct ... the warning messages will continue to appear everytime you start the car. However, you can then clear them to use the DIC to display other items (such as oil temperature) by pressing the RESET button. Each time you press RESET you will clear a message. Once you have cleared the messages the DIC is functional until such time as another message is issued.

The yellow AH/TC warning will stay illuminated while you drive the car.

:cheers:

BlackZ06 06-22-2008 04:05 PM


Originally Posted by anniv88 (Post 1566001885)
Can the same thing be accomplished by doing a burnout and getting
the car to fishtail.
Would this cause the Active Handling to operate?

While Active Handling uses the BPMV, it is only for a very short period to correct a "fishtail". Also, doing burnouts to exercise the BPMV is a costly way to do it ... lots of tire wear, and lots of drivetrain stress.

The best way to aaccomplish this is as the two Bill's point out ..... long hard stops that force the BPMV to run for several seconds at a time. And as pointed out, doing it on a slick road (wet, sandy, oily ... ) reduces tire wear and extends the time the BPMV has to operate.

:cheers:

backnblack2003z06 06-22-2008 04:58 PM

You can also use a Tech 2 to run the self test this will cycle everything inside the BPMV.

50yrzo6 06-22-2008 05:02 PM

Sorry to keep asking novice questions. Is there a fuse for the EBCM and/or BPMV? :o

BlackZ06 06-22-2008 05:10 PM


Originally Posted by 50yrzo6 (Post 1566004199)
Sorry to keep asking novice questions. Is there a fuse for the EBCM and/or BPMV? :o

The EBCM is powered through two circuits ..... in the underhood fuse block Fuse 5 (10 Amp) and Fuse 52 (40 Amp). The BPMV pump and solenoids receive their power from the EBCM. The relay (it is internal to the EBCM) that provides that power to the BPMV can fail, and sets DTC C1214 when it does.

:cheers:

TexasKidd 10-22-2008 05:17 PM

I have a similar problem - or maybe it's the same problem with a little bit of a twist.

Recently starting getting the ABS warning light and after a couple of weeks, took the car to my "trusted" mechanic. He changed the ($1600 parts and labor) EBCM and I got the car back. ABS light started coming on a day or two later so I took the car back to him. He put on another EBCM (first one was warrantable so no cost) We did the whole thing again. He put another EBCM on it, and everything fine for one day. Warning light started coming on again so I took it back to him. He didn't want to put on a third EBCM without trying to figure out if something else may be causing this problem. At this point, he did some testing and decided that it might be the BPMV and he wanted to take the car to the local Chev dealership. Chevrolet dealership says it's the BPMV causing the problem and it keeps ruining the EBCM's that are put on the car. Chev dealership also told me that my mechanic (they all know and respect each other) was not replacing the Pressure Switch along with the EBCM and he was supposed to be doing that. Chev dealer told me that in removing the pressure switch, it was all corroded where it attaches to the BPMV - like, the shafts where the bolts go. But, they say the BPMV was bad anyway regardless of corrosion on it.

After doing a little research, I've decided to let them replace the BPMV (parts & labor about $2,800 on top of the $1,600 I've already spent). I'm a weekend mechanic - and then some, but the whole thing sounded a little too complicated for me to mess with.

I'm sick about it all, and pissed off. I feel like GM just screwed me. I almost told them to put it back together and I'd drive without the ABS system. but, it's my wife's daily driver.

From all the research I've read, I want to complain that this is a safety issue that GM should recall and fix. Or, do I just have to suck it up and feel okay with pouring money into this car? Do I have to accept the notion that if I'm going to oen a corvette, I need to be willing to put a lot of money into it for these repairs? Do C6's have this problem? maybe I should trade it in on a C6.

fdxpilot 10-22-2008 07:14 PM


Originally Posted by TexasKidd (Post 1567566324)
I'm sick about it all, and pissed off. I feel like GM just screwed me. I almost told them to put it back together and I'd drive without the ABS system. but, it's my wife's daily driver.



Well, someone is screwing you, but it's the dealer. $2800 is at least twice what I would figure for replacing a BPMV.

Bill Dearborn 10-22-2008 08:39 PM

I agree you are getting screwed by the dealer if all you are getting is a BPMV. However, the price they quoted you sounds close to what a repair is if both the EBCM and BPMV are replaced. Since you have a bad EBCM on the car they are probably also replacing it. As far as they are concerned the EBCM isn't warrantied since your mechanic did the original replacement.

With modern cars that have the kinds of subsystems the C5 has going to your local independent trusted mechanic can be the wrong thing to do. A large number of them just don't have the test equipment and training required to work on cars with these systems. I have an 03 Tahoe with automatic level control/real time dampening/stabiltrack (active handling). I had a Service Ride Control message show on the DIC and asked the local Goodyear store to run the code for me while installing some tires as the codes are not accessible without a Tech 2. They couldn't read them and referred me to the dealer.

If your mechanic had followed the diagnostic procedures for these failures and he would have discovered the BPMV problem the first time around.

As far as it being a safety issue it isn't. There are plenty of cars on the road that get along fine without ABS/Traction Control/Active Handling. When these two modules fail the base brake system still works just fine you just don't have some of the really nice to have stuff.

Bill

TexasKidd 10-22-2008 10:57 PM

Ah ha! How much should I be paying for just the BPMV?

Bill Dearborn 10-22-2008 11:11 PM


Originally Posted by TexasKidd (Post 1567570568)
Ah ha! How much should I be paying for just the BPMV?

I am not sure. I have GMPP on my 03Z and when my EBCM went belly up last year the dealer tech found the BPMV had to be replaced as well. The total charge to GMPP was right around $3K. When the modulator is replaced the brake system including the modulator has to bled using a Tech 2 or similar high dollar tool that can operate the BPMV valves during the bleeding process.

Check GM Parts House to see how much the modulator costs.

Bill

87SAM 10-23-2008 09:11 AM


Originally Posted by TexasKidd (Post 1567570568)
Ah ha! How much should I be paying for just the BPMV?

Gene has the 99-00 Pressure modulator valve for about $1400. List is $2150.

gtzy 10-23-2008 10:03 AM

You can get a used EBTCM Assembly with both componets for under $500.00

2000
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette Assm, w/o active brk cntrl-Verify 2845 $499 Auto Works, Inc. USA-WI(Madison) Request_Quote 1-608-222-3119 Request_Insurance_Quote

1998
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette 08D006 $450 Deluxe Auto Parts - KOLT USA-TX(Corpus-Christi) E-mail 1-800-654-3589
1998
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette ASSY AA4765 $400 Rockford Auto Parts USA-IL(Rockford) Request_Quote 1-815-964-3396 / 1-800-392-5595 Request_Insurance_Quote
1998
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette 4-98 A 126437 $375 Jones Auto, Inc. USA-IN(Orleans) E-mail 1-812-865-4161
1998
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette A NHA119 $350 Hokes Bluff Auto Parts USA-AL(Gadsden) E-mail 1-800-824-0202
1998
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette 2-98 A N0335 $350 M and M Auto Parts, Inc. USA-VA(Stafford) Request_Quote 1-800-586-5492 1-540-659-2023 Request_Insurance_Quote

1998
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette T0323 $350 Auto Parts of Shelby (Store #1 PRP) USA-NC(Shelby) Request_Quote 1-800-274-9124 Request_Insurance_Quote

1999
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette -5/99,5.7 09356961 080801 $350 Price Auto Parts USA-NC(Knightdale) Request_Quote 1-800-672-9211 Request_Insurance_Quote

1999
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette 2D,CP,RWD,ABS,5.7,6S PD,12 98 A K8543 $350 Donawitz Auto Parts USA-PA(New-Brighton) E-mail 1-800-248-1032
1999
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette 6 SP,RWD 082030 $350 Lambert Auto Salvage USA-MS(Booneville) E-mail 1-877-728-0409
1999
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette 03165 $350 All Star Import & American Auto USA-TX(Kennedale) E-mail 817-572-5009
1999
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette A 080077 $325 Newark Motor and Export USA-NJ(Newark) Request_Quote 1-866-589-7456 for Cars 1-866-589-5383 for Trucks and Vans Request_Insurance_Quote

2000
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette A 080045 $295 American Camaro & Firebird Auto Parts USA-OK(Warr-Acres) E-mail 1-888-833-4582
1999
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette 2D,4-99,ABS,RWD,5.7G ,CONV C 08296 $275 Kenny's Auto Wrecking USA-OH(Lima) Request_Quote 1-800-686-1871 Request_Insurance_Quote

1999
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette 20070202 $247.5 PRP- Midway Auto Parts, Inc. USA-MO(Kansas-City) E-mail 1-816-242-0100
1999
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette C/R 5.7L ABS 07I0654 $235 Kosiski Auto Parts, Inc. USA-NE(Omaha) Request_Quote 1-800-228-0053 Request_Insurance_Quote
1999
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette GOOD,ABS,CK FOR ACTIVE CONTROL 01304 $200 All Star Import & American Auto USA-TX(Kennedale) E-mail 817-572-5009
1998
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette ASSM, W/FRONT ABS BRAKE LOCK (OPT JAG), W/O ACTIVE BRAKE CONT A FW12801 $192.5 Elmers Auto Salvage - QRP Partner USA-WI(Fountain-City) E-mail 1-800-362-5004
2000
Anti-Lock Brake Parts
Chevy Corvette 7H2885 $175 Benn's Auto Parts USA-FL(Homestead) E-mail 1-305-247-3613

TexasKidd 10-23-2008 11:22 AM


Originally Posted by fdxpilot (Post 1567567911)
Well, someone is screwing you, but it's the dealer. $2800 is at least twice what I would figure for replacing a BPMV.


Well, I didn't sleep well last night. I know I'm getting screwed this time (I usually react faster, make better decisions, and fix myself).

I called two other Chev dealerships here in DFW area. One has EBCM for $925 and BPMV for $1,930. the other has EBCM for $1,070 and BPMV for $2,228. All these are before sales tax. Both dealerships are about $500 labor also.

Next time, I will put the wife in the old beat-up pick-truck, send these parts to someone to fix, and do it myself.

I appreciate everyone's input and think I've learned a lesson. I hate it when I feel I'm being taken advantage of.

TexasKidd 10-23-2008 11:38 AM

Will this fix my traction control? The warning light has been coming on to, off and on.

fdxpilot 10-23-2008 06:17 PM


Originally Posted by TexasKidd (Post 1567574855)
Well, I didn't sleep well last night. I know I'm getting screwed this time (I usually react faster, make better decisions, and fix myself).

I called two other Chev dealerships here in DFW area. One has EBCM for $925 and BPMV for $1,930. the other has EBCM for $1,070 and BPMV for $2,228. All these are before sales tax. Both dealerships are about $500 labor also.

Next time, I will put the wife in the old beat-up pick-truck, send these parts to someone to fix, and do it myself.

I appreciate everyone's input and think I've learned a lesson. I hate it when I feel I'm being taken advantage of.

If you check one of the forum vendors, GMPartshouse, I think the BPMV is $1414 for an 01-04. Walking up to the parts desk of a dealer as a member of the general public requires a large jar of lube. Check these guys. I couldn't find it in the '04 year section but it was in the '02 section.

http://www.gmpartshouse.com/

TexasKidd 10-24-2008 09:21 PM


Originally Posted by TexasKidd (Post 1567575073)
Will this fix my traction control? The warning light has been coming on to, off and on.


Yes, at least it did fix my traction control.

John_Mac 09-09-2009 05:26 PM

Do dealers actually fix this problem?
 
There has been a lot of discussion of this problem on the sites. Are there good examples of letting the dealer fix the EBCM/BPMV problem and it actually works again?

I don't think I am alone in thinking this is a black hole for fix something, then something else, then something else. At the costs involved, you have to wonder if it is worth it.

fdxpilot 09-10-2009 05:13 PM


Originally Posted by John_Mac (Post 1571436919)
There has been a lot of discussion of this problem on the sites. Are there good examples of letting the dealer fix the EBCM/BPMV problem and it actually works again?

I don't think I am alone in thinking this is a black hole for fix something, then something else, then something else. At the costs involved, you have to wonder if it is worth it.

Both modules were replaced by my dealer (Chuck Hutton Chevy, Memphis TN) in 2005 under the GMPP extended warranty. My cost was the $100 deductible. Since then, I have had no further problems, although I only have about 38K mi on my 02.

Obviously, if you're paying the total cost yourself, you might want to go the "repair the module (absfixer.com)" or DIY replacement route.

Bill Dearborn 09-10-2009 05:49 PM

Both of my modules were replaced by the dealer in 2007. GMPP picked up the complete cost of the repair. Two years later and no issues.

Bill

TurboBerserker 09-10-2009 06:31 PM


Originally Posted by 50yrzo6 (Post 1566003355)
Can I assume there is no way to disable the warning that flashes up on the DIC?

Only if you don't have EFI or HPT

PLDouglas 09-10-2009 11:05 PM

EBCTM repair
 
Sorry to hear about your problems. Electrical problems in your Corvette can be really agravating and hard to solve. I had the code 1214C problem, with the lights on the dash a couple of months ago. Went through all of the simple checks first, like checking all 13 of the grounds in the Vette, checking the fuses and conections at the battery.

Finally determined that the problem lay only with the EBCTM. I removed it and sent it off to ABSFIXER for repair. In less than a week, and for the total price of $150, I received my module in the mail. I quickly installed it and was very pleased that the lights were gone and the braking-handling-traction system were fixed. My 2002 Vette and I are very happy. ABSFIXER.com totally rocks!

2000BC 09-11-2009 11:39 AM


Originally Posted by Bill Curlee (Post 1565956946)
:iagree: Bill is correct! There are some of us C5 drivers that put our cars through their paces on a regular basis and that will frequently cause the ABS and or Active Handling system to activate and control the brakes. That BPMV "USAGE" keeps things from malfunctioning.

Most Corvette owners are happy just to drive their cars in a way that seldom causes the BPMV motor to function. This allows components inside the brake hydraulic system to stick or act sluggishly.

In an effort to save you some cash you may want to SAFELY try this:

On a day when the roads are wet, (wet roads cause less wear and tear on the car) find a "SAFE" place where you can apply the brakes hard enough to LOCK UP the brakes. Clear ALL the DTCs and once their cleared,,,accelerate to approx 35-40 MPH and brake at full force. This will cause the tires to loose traction and the ANTI LOCK system and or the Active Handling will or should operate. If the system does NOT work normally, and the tires lock up and loose traction, ABORT. If you set a DTC and get a message, turn the ignition off and back on , reset the DTCs and repeat.

If you cant get the system to work normally after 3-4 attempts to cycle the motor,,,,your going to need to bite the bullet and replace the BPMV.

If you attempt to do the braking procedure PLEASE make sure you do it in a SAFE and LEGAL place where you will NOT damage your car.

This has helped quite a few people get their EBTCM and BPMV back in operation without having to replace the BPMV. There have been a few people who it has NOT helped.

Ill let you decide if you want to safely attempt the procedure. :D

Bill C

I'm getting the C 1243 H BPMV code constantly now, even after resets, so I tried your solution today (pouring rain). I skidded on and off for 50 miles resetting the codes occasionally to no avail. Now I'll try sending out the EBTCM for the fix. On the positive side I can state that Vredestein Tires are EXCELLENT in the wet! Had to do 50mph to 60 mph skids to get some time on the BPMV. Straight as an arrow!:cheers:

87SAM 09-11-2009 11:54 AM


Originally Posted by 2000BC (Post 1571457604)
I'm getting the C 1243 H BPMV code constantly now, even after resets, so I tried your solution today (pouring rain). I skidded on and off for 50 miles resetting the codes occasionally to no avail. Now I'll try sending out the EBTCM for the fix. On the positive side I can state that Vredestein Tires are EXCELLENT in the wet! Had to do 50mph to 60 mph skids to get some time on the BPMV. Straight as an arrow!:cheers:

With the C1243 code, there is a very good chance that it is not the fault of the EBCM.

TEXHAWK0 09-11-2009 12:16 PM


Originally Posted by TexasKidd (Post 1567566324)
I'm sick about it all, and pissed off. I feel like GM just screwed me. I almost told them to put it back together and I'd drive without the ABS system. but, it's my wife's daily driver.

I have driven cars for decades and never activated the ABS. In fact, you can still buy some GM cars that don't have ABS.
Even when it activates, some people who have never experienced how violent it can be, are spooked and do not let the system work.
Sometimes I wish my Z06 did not have ABS, Active Handling, or any of these systems that are supposed to "save me".:(

Etrpcs 08-13-2016 01:44 PM

Traction Control system
 

Originally Posted by Bill Dearborn (Post 1565956157)
Depending on the original failure the diagnostic procedure leads the tech through a series of tests. Depending on the result of those tests the procedure could call for the replacement of the EBCM or both the EBCM and BPMV.

With Code C1243 the system has detected the pump motor running slowly this condition can cause the relay contacts in the EBCM to burn and if it had shown up on the original diagnosis probably would have resulted in both modules being replaced at that time.

There is no way to fix the BPMV so it needs to be replaced. Replacement means removing it from the hydraulic system so when it is replaced the brakes will have to be bled and the BPMV will have to be bled using a Tech 2.

If you do nothing your car will drive just fine. You will still have the base brake system which isn't affected by ABS system failures. However, you will not have ABS or Traction Control.

Bill

Bill

My car will just have the Traction system kick in and I have to shut it off to drive. There are no diagnostics codes that show up so I cannot identify the problem. Any ideas?

Etrpcs 08-13-2016 02:49 PM


Originally Posted by 8VETTE7 (Post 1592840152)
Did you PULL the codes or just expect to see them pop up in the DIC?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SviRjIsy9G4



OR



http://www.c5forum.com/ayc/dtcdic.php

I did try to pull the codes and there were no codes listed. I also brought it to a local mechanic to plug it in and he did not get any codes either.

Etrpcs 08-13-2016 03:35 PM


Originally Posted by 8VETTE7 (Post 1592840673)
No info in your post or your profile about the car....:toetap:

What year? If pre-2001 does the car have the AH RPO?? ( JL4)

Next time the symptoms happen observe the message(s) if any that appear in the DIC while the symptom is occurring and post back here.

Also pull over as soon as possible after the symptoms occur and pull the codes BEFORE you shut off the engine. To pull codes with the engine running you must first use the reset button to clear all messages displayed in the DIC. Then pull codes as normal. Some codes are not saved to memory once the ignition is turned off. Post what you find.

Sorry it is a 1998 and yes has AH PRO. It is an intermitant problem and I have to disable the traction control to continue driving. I will pull over and post back the error message I get as you suggested. Thansk Im hoping someone can help.

Etrpcs 08-13-2016 04:00 PM


Originally Posted by 8VETTE7 (Post 1592840766)
Are you disabling TC or AH???

IF TC then what size tires are you running front and rear? Not having the proper tire size stagger rear to front can cause TC to step in when it should not and that does NOT set codes because it is doing what it should.

If AH then problems with the Steering Wheel Position Sensor can cause AH to activate when it should not. When the SWPS is beginning to fail it will often NOT set codes until the failure is more complete.

I did just buy the car and they said they put new tires on. What should I be running in front and rear? The only thing I can disable is the traction control on the console. How can I tell if its the TC or AH?

Etrpcs 08-13-2016 04:09 PM


Originally Posted by Etrpcs (Post 1592840837)
I did just buy the car and they said they put new tires on. What should I be running in front and rear? The only thing I can disable is the traction control on the console. How can I tell if its the TC or AH?

I just checked an I have 265/35ZR18 on the rear. They say the specs call for 275/40Zr18. Would this effect the traction control?

Etrpcs 08-13-2016 04:11 PM


Originally Posted by 8VETTE7 (Post 1592840888)
Tire size depend upon the wheel size(s)you are running. I can't tell you what size you should be running if I don't know the wheel size(s). On a previously owned car (and anyones guess how many previous owners) the wheels may not be factory any longer.

That is why I asked you to tell US what sizes are on the front and rear.

If you have AH as you said then putting the car into Comp mode is turning off the AH.

Again we don't know exactly what you are doing/turning off so you need to tell US and not US tell you.............

I am turning off the traction control on the middle console. I just posted the tire size 245/45ZR17 front and 265/35ZR18 rear

Etrpcs 08-13-2016 04:37 PM

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...4dab368e0.jpeg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...0540ad545.jpeg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...c03e05076.jpeg

Originally Posted by 8VETTE7 (Post 1592840967)
I edited my previous post but that will not make a difference in your problem.

TC is being enabled due to the tire sizes you are running.

General rule of thumb for the C5 is that the overall diameter of the rear tire needs to be 1/2" to 1 1/2" LARGER than the overall diameter of the front tire to avoid TC issues.

The OD of the front 245/45-17 is 25.6"

The OD of the rear 265/35-18 is 25.3"

So your rear tires have a smaller overall diameter than the front. To run that setup you will have to disable TC every time you start the car.

THere are definitely tire combinations that can be run on the 17" front and 18" rear wheels that will not cause that problem.

What wheels does the car have?? Factory "wagon wheels"?? Factory thin spokes?? Aftermarket wheels? If aftermarket wheels do you know the width of the front and back wheels???

I believe they are the stock rims.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.cor...bb9e3405f.jpeg

Etrpcs 08-13-2016 04:55 PM


Originally Posted by 8VETTE7 (Post 1592841084)
Nice looking car.

THose are the OEM "wagon wheels". OEM tire sizes were:

Front- 245/45-17
Rear- 275/40-18

The front tire now on the car is correct. The rear tire that is OEM size will have an overall diameter of 26.7" or just over an inch taller than those on the rear of the car now.

If you bought the car from a dealer and they put those sizes on the car I would go back and get them to install the correct rear size. If it was a private party deal then I would talk to the seller and see if you can reach some mutually agreeable adjustment. JMHO

Thanks so much for the information. I did buy it from a private party so not sure if I have any recourse. As an FYI a private mechanic and local dealer neither one had an answer. But that explains why there is no a recode because it is doing what it was intended to.

Thanks again!


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