Wider Spark Plug Gap with Pertronix Ignition?
I'm going to swap the old points and condenser for a Pertronix Ignitor II system. One of my friends told me that I should widen the spark plug gap. Do you all agree? And if so, what should the new gap be?
Thanks! |
False. The pertronix unit is not an HEI unit. The spark is the same intensity as with the points.
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:iagree: Keep it at .035". Wider gaps are good for lean emissions tuned engines but not helping you with a regular HP application.
Try it both ways and see for yourself. It's free. :) -Mark. |
Originally Posted by stingr69
(Post 1567149136)
:iagree: Keep it at .035". Wider gaps are good for lean emissions tuned engines but not helping you with a regular HP application.
Try it both ways and see for yourself. It's free. :) -Mark. I ran one for a couple of years and found .035 to be fine - nothing gained with a wider gap at all. It will run fine till the Pertronix up and dies on you....... |
The gap is based on the capabilities of the coil/ignition system. If you haven't changed the coil, don't change the gap.
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Originally Posted by pws69
(Post 1567149566)
:iagree:
It will run fine till the Pertronix up and dies on you....... I couldn't think of a better storage place for mine other than inside the distributor- where I couldn't lose or forget them. I did have to remove the pertronix piece to make room but amazingly, the car runs perfectly without it, year after year. Who knew?:rofl: |
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
(Post 1567154824)
Good point. Standard advice is to keep your old points and condenser with you at all times for an emergency roadside repair.
I couldn't think of a better storage place for mine other than inside the distributor- where I couldn't lose or forget them. I did have to remove the pertronix piece to make room but amazingly, the car runs perfectly without it, year after year. Who knew?:rofl: |
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
(Post 1567154824)
Good point. Standard advice is to keep your old points and condenser with you at all times for an emergency roadside repair.
I couldn't think of a better storage place for mine other than inside the distributor- where I couldn't lose or forget them. I did have to remove the pertronix piece to make room but amazingly, the car runs perfectly without it, year after year. Who knew?:rofl: :thumbs: |
Originally Posted by 69427
(Post 1567155648)
Hey, Mike. You're killing me here. :rofl:
Not only that, but I now had the problem of where to store the removed pertronix unit, as that had now become my emergency back up unit for when the points and condenser failed unexpectedly. Well that was a long long time ago and I'm still waiting for an unexpected failure so I finally put the petronix unit back in a box and stuck it on my 'waste of money, what was I thinking' shelf in the garage. It's getting very crowded there. :thumbs: |
Originally Posted by Tele_Man
(Post 1567148980)
I'm going to swap the old points and condenser for a Pertronix Ignitor II system. One of my friends told me that I should widen the spark plug gap. Do you all agree? And if so, what should the new gap be?
Thanks! |
I realize the Pertronix kit will not improve performance. Only a true conversion to HEI will. However, I decided not to convert to HEI because it will change the stock appearance of my engine. I'm switching to Pertronix purely to remove the maintenance of points/condenser. It's not a huge expense and I thought it would be worth a try. I don't put a lot of miles on this car and I'm assuming the Pertronix reliability will be acceptable.
I'm also going to change the coil to the Pertronix model called the Flame-Thrower II, which is rated at 45,000 volts. Given this, should I still keep the spark plug gap at 0.035"? Thanks for all your help. |
I have a pertronix unit in a non vette aplication, been in for several years and it has given no problems at all. I don't care what anybody says , it starts easier , idles better.... in short does everything better than points. and you keep the stock look. its been several years but i think my plug gap is .045............not 100% sure though.
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Originally Posted by Tele_Man
(Post 1567188078)
I realize the Pertronix kit will not improve performance. Only a true conversion to HEI will. However, I decided not to convert to HEI because it will change the stock appearance of my engine. I'm switching to Pertronix purely to remove the maintenance of points/condenser. It's not a huge expense and I thought it would be worth a try. I don't put a lot of miles on this car and I'm assuming the Pertronix reliability will be acceptable.
I'm also going to change the coil to the Pertronix model called the Flame-Thrower II, which is rated at 45,000 volts. Given this, should I still keep the spark plug gap at 0.035"? Thanks for all your help. http://i35.tinypic.com/2wgestz.jpg |
i dont have a pertronix on my vette yet but my 68 mustang has had one for 6 years now and it cranks within 2 spins every time and has never faltered.
as far as a wider gap. doesnt the pertronix require a full 12v and a full 12v coil instead of the 6v coil that is oem. which would allow a wider gap on the plug. the only reason why i dont have one in my vette yet is because i see multiple ones listed for the vette and i am not sure which one is better. |
Originally Posted by Tele_Man
(Post 1567188078)
......................
I'm also going to change the coil to the Pertronix model called the Flame-Thrower II, which is rated at 45,000 volts. Given this, should I still keep the spark plug gap at 0.035"? Thanks for all your help. |
The stock coils used for point-style ignition is much weaker than the Petronix Flamethrower. Pre 1974 coils ran off 5-8 volts with the use of a resistor wire or a ballast resistor. Too much juice would fry the contacts in the points assy. The Flamethrower coil needs the full 12v which means more juice to plugs.
Also, the Flamethrower and Ignitor combo will rev way past what a single points set-up will. I've had it up to 7000 RPM in a 327 car without missing a beat. A dual-point distributor will barely do 7000 and no way will typical single points system go 7000. If RPM is HP, then the Ignitor is definetly a performance upgrade. Plus, I'm going to guess tens of thousands of these units have been sold and the failure rate is low. FWIW. |
Originally Posted by 73, Dark Blue 454
(Post 1567193584)
Also, the Flamethrower and Ignitor combo will rev way past what a single points set-up will. I've had it up to 7000 RPM in a 327 car without missing a beat. A dual-point distributor will barely do 7000 and no way will typical single points system go 7000.
the stock, single points distributor on my '65 I've had often at the 6500rpm redline without missing a beat and a few times I've had the car well beyond that with the tach buried which put it at 7500rpm without missing a beat, no points float, and still pulling strong. This is a 100% stock L76 327/365hp motor.
Originally Posted by 73, Dark Blue 454
(Post 1567193584)
Plus, I'm going to guess tens of thousands of these units have been sold and the failure rate is low.
FWIW. |
Originally Posted by BarryK
(Post 1567195384)
not true
the stock, single points distributor on my '65 I've had often at the 6500rpm redline without missing a beat and a few times I've had the car well beyond that with the tach buried which put it at 7500rpm without missing a beat, no points float, and still pulling strong. This is a 100% stock L76 327/365hp motor. but not as low as the failure rate of points.......... of which millions have been sold and used over decades with great reliability. |
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
(Post 1567195807)
You're correct on both 'points' Barry- but I believe you're wasting your time. Many people would rather believe in marketing cra*p than common sense and experience. :thumbs:
i've beat this point to death on WAY too many threads but people still insist on wasting their money on these conversion kits regardless. I truely believe the ONLY people that really benefit from these kits are the vendors selling them. And for the people that say they have seen an improvement in easier starting, better idle, or better performance, they would have seen the identical improvement by simply overhauling/rebuilding their point distributor back to correct tolerances. The conversion kits are simply masking overriding problems in the distributor such as too much endplay on the mainshaft causing dwell to fluctuate, etc The ironic part is that generally it would have cost them LESS to rebuild the distributor than the electronic conversion kits cost them and they'd have overall better reliability with the stock points. Go figure! As for less maintenance, if taking an extra 5 minutes once a year to check and set dwell when checking and setting timing during your annual "Spring tune-up" is too much extra work than they probably shouldn't be owning an older classic car anyway - buy a new C6 and just drive it. :rolleyes: Hmmm, wonder how many responses I'll get from THIS response. I'm sure it ain't gonna be pretty! :D |
Originally Posted by Mike Ward
(Post 1567195807)
You're correct on both 'points' Barry- but I believe you're wasting your time. Many people would rather believe in marketing cra*p than common sense and experience. :thumbs:
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