What the best way to remove this broken bleeder screw
 

Ok I was bleeding the brake fluid earlier today and I finished up with the rear. When I go to the front left and try to remove it after a PB soak the screw just breaks off :eek: . This is the second time this has happened, first was with the thermostat housing bolt. After unsuccessfully trying to reverse drill that out (lack of a center punch), I just gasket tacked up the broken screw and just popped it back on and its holding up. Anyways I know there is no way I can do some stupid seal to this.

Ok, what should I do? The head broke off so I bet fluid will come out if I press the brakes. I can try to use these left hand drill bits from HF and since this already has a center hole I might have better luck than the thermostat. I've seen something called an Easy Out, should I try that? Or just buy another caliper. I just need this thing fixed up fast.

How should the reverse bit go? Get the size one smaller than the threads and go with that? Or go up from the hole one step at a time, each time going bigger.

http://a.imageshack.us/img844/7789/dsc01447p.jpg

http://a.imageshack.us/img825/5923/dsc01449.jpg

I would go with an ez-out. (Not one from China- when it breaks off you might have bigger problems) Be sure to use the correct size. You can warm up the caliper with a steam wrench VERY CAREFULLY. Don't get it super hot, just toast it a little.

fluid is not going to come out. Steve is right a good set out easy outs. On the thermostat housing bolt center punch and drill as large as you can go then try an easy out you may have to retap the thermostat bolt. I hate getting bleaders out usaly a pain in the a## that is one of the reasons when I need brakes I just buy loaded calipers. Here are a couple of things you can try. tap around the housing where the bleader goes in with a hammer (the vibrations may loosen up rust and coorosion around the threads and seat) You may have to take the caliper apart and use heat to get it out. good luck.

So fluid wont gush out of that when I press the brakes? Still sealed? If so I'd prefer to keep it like that for a while until I get some free time. If I do mess it up auto stores have to order the caliper , no one stocks it. It seems like almost everything I do to the car ends up taking 3 times as long as it should with various problems getting in the way and lots of improvising required.
What Easy Out would you guys recommend I try? There are also bolt extractors that are flat and there are plus sign ones.

need a 'brake bleeder screw repair kit'...~$5 at most auto parts stores...basically just a small brass pipe plug that is drilled/tapped for a new bleeder screw, must drill/tap your caliper for the pipe size of the repair gizmo ...if drilling and tapping small pipe size is not comfy DIY, take the caliper to an auto machine shop.

if it is still seated correct no fluid will come out

^ Ok great to hear, I think that bleeder screw repair kit is perfect. I've never tapped anything before but I'd love to give it a shot sometime. Gives me a reason to buy new interesting tools. In fact most things I'm doing to the car are first times. Thanks to all for the replies.

just remember do not mess up the seat in the caliper or it will be no good

If you didn't succeed in breaking it loose, no fluid will come out. However, go ahead and get the EZ out and extract the offending bleeder and put a new one in and finish the flush.

As mentioned before, you can apply a little heat if need (sparingly) and PB and it should back out without too much of a fight. Worst case scenario is you remove the caliper and take it to a machine shop.

:iagree: It looks like the broken part is a little below the surface of the caliper, so It should hold a little PB in there for a while. It should loosen up a little by the time you go after it with the easy out. Just don't drill too deep or you'll damage the seat.

A trick I learned 50 years ago to remove stuck fasteners. I have been using it ever since and shared this with many people who have used it also. Throw away all the canned blasters.

Heat the fastener, just enough to melt wax. Once the fastener is hot enough to melt wax, hold a candle on it and let the wax flow. Let it cool, then do all over. Real bad cases may require 3 heat and wax applications. Then remove the fastener. The melted wax will wick right into the threads of the fastener. The wax in the threads also lubes the fastener threads for easier removal.

DO NOT ! heat it to color change or anywhere near that. If you heat the fastener and the wax smokes and burns, your way to hot and the wax is melting and burning and not wicking in the threads. You want it just hot enough to melt wax in a nice flow. Give it a try.....you will love it.

8Valve

Interesting. I've heard this before but I always forget to try it.

If it shouldn't get too hot, would it be better to use a heat gun than a torch?

No, you will need a torch. There is a lot of heat sink in all the metal. A heat gun just wont cut it.

Remember this.......if your going to put any heat on that caliper, remove the brake line. You dont want to heat the caliper and brake fluid and develop pressure inside.

Believe me, the wax trick is a blessing from heaven. I remove fasteners on my trucks with the wax trick that most would torch off..........if they can get a cutting torch in there at the right angle.

8Valve

Be careful when using the easy out. Finally got my bleeder out AFTER I took a chunk out of the caliper as well. I've got an extra 93 caliper without pistons if you need it, walnut blasted, looks like it just came out of the factory.

the wax works. We had to separate a PTO unit on a 52 Ford Tractor. Every bolt was rusted fast. The wax worked, my grandfather showed me that trick, he was a con ed repair man and worked on rusted crap under the streets of Manhattan. They carried the wax and torch in their tool box

wouldn't it be easier to get a reman caliper for $50 locally.