Shift Cable Replacement Procedure Question
 

Hey guys. I just became another victim of the dreaded broken shift cable. I had to manually shift the trans linkage the other day to get home praying I wouldnt need to use reverse. :ack: The cable itself broke on the back side of the bracket that bolts on to the trans itself. Ive seen the 'official' procedure on how to replace it but something tells me you shouldnt have to remove the hpipe and tunnel plate for this job. Question, has anyone here ever fished or fed the new cable through by using the old cable to pull it through or even a electricians fishing tape? I dont see why you cant pull it through from the back side. Its short and somewhat of a straight shot and the cable should be flexible enough for this, just feed it through the console where the shifter is. So, anyone try this? Sounds easier and better than removing all that crap :crazy:. Any help or advice/ideas would be greatly apreciated!:bigears

Btw, I have an aftermarket xpipe which allows me to remove the rear section of pipe allowing me access to the cable bracket on the trans.

Wow, does everyone here just allow themselves to get rapped by the dealership or a shop or are there some mechanicaly inclined DIY guys here? No one?

If you would learn how to use ADVANCED SEARCH you could have found this yourself in a fraction of the keystrokes.

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c5-t...o-replace.html

I did read it. One guy had the same idea but didnt try it. Guess I'll be the first.

Let us know how it works out. I have an 00 auto, and have been dreading the time when mine breaks.:cheers:

My 23-year old son replaced mine a few months ago. he did have to drop the tunnel plate. I think becaseu the cable was fastened inside the tunnel, but don't hold me to it.

When you buy a new cable it comes with the bracket that attaches to the bell housing on the trans. Thats the only bracket visible and since its not too long it seems to be the only one. I guess I'll find out too. Thnx.

Will do. Should be an intresting weekend project.

Job was a PITA but easy if you know your way around hand tools. I removed the xpipe and tunnel plate. From there you can see the cable is on a bracket that attaches to the inside of the tunnel. then theres the bracket on the trans. You can access the shifter cable under the car, no need to remove the center console like some might think. Just snap cable to bracket in tunnel, then to ball joint on shifter, bolt on rear bracket to trans and snap on to trans linkage. Make sure shifter and trans are in N and lock tab in place. Tips, I added a ziptie to the plastic piece that snaps on to linkage therefore preventing it from breaking the tab there or coming out of position. I have big hands and had no problems so most guys should be fine. Total job took me about 3hrs with me taking my time. If I had a lift it could be done in 1hr. Good luck guys.

gear shift is sliding freely too
 

99 Vette automatic. The gear shift is sliding freely. I crawled under the car, and saw the back plastic clip on the trans was still connected. I went up to the front, and can't see a thing, so I am guess that what the problem is. I would like to ''see'' the cable end somehow before I go ripping into it, and find out it's something else. Anyone have any ideas? or pictures? The exhaust has a bunch of bolts on it, but it looks like it can be taken off. Tunnel ram has a 20 bolts, but they don't look bad either. Some of the exhaust bolts are rusty. Just wondering if this is too big of a job for me or not, I'm guessing. Any info would be helpful. Thanks. :cheers:

do you guys have a part number for that cable?

the tunnel plate and mid pipe are easy to get off..35 bolts or so but 20 of them are 8 MM on the tunnel plate and can be removed with a standard drill if you don't have air. Just break them loose real quick with a ratchet and then zip them all off/on with a drill/driver/air ratchet.

then zip em' back down and snug/torque with a ratchet. the mid pip should be 8 bolts total right in front of your face if you're under the car. I would think it would make the shift cable removal/re routing a snap after just having this all out for a TT bushing swap

it'll probably take you the same amount of time as it will to pull the console..15-20 minutes

:bigears

I don't mean to hijack this thread, but is there a way to adjust the shift cable? I have to drop mine into 3rd gear to get it to engage in gear. Then, I can put it back in drive...

Yep. I believe I you the procedure, when you broke the cable last time.

It works!! wooooooohoooo
 

Changed my Transmission cable today on my 99 Automatic, and it works fine!! Thank you!! Here are a few of my tips. Make sure you remember which way the bracket on the rear exhaust goes, or you'll end up with it not working (ask me how I know) : ) The wires for the O2 sensors need to be unclipped. You don't have to take anything out of the 02 sensors. When re routing, and hanging the new cable, the cable has 2 things you squeeze to release it from its hanger, and a wire clip has to come out first. Otherwise, these slide in, and slide out. I fought with the hangers for an hour. I clipped on the new stuff, and had my wife move the gear shift selector so I could get the exact spot the new cable needed to be at in the rear. All in all it wasn't bad, but it does take a while. The bottom is the way to go on putting on the new cable. Don't mess with the top gear shift lever..It's easy on the bottom end. That's it. Thanks again for all your help everyone. :cheers:

Could you elaborate on this? I have to replace my cable as well. The shifter is self explanatory, but how can you tell whether the transmission is in neutral? Lucky for me my shift cable broke in my garage in park and not somewhere else.

Thanks for any help. Kind a new to working on cars and having fun learning at 50! :)

I'm dying to know the answer to this as well

The FSM does not provide that guidance. If it were me, what I would do is to locate Park at the tranny by moving the shift input lever there. It should be the detent that is most forward towards the front of the car. Should be easy to verify since the tranny should lock up and the wheels should not rotate. I would then move the shift lever two detents to Neutral.