Need to jack up my C6 to do a brake job
I've read multiple threads about using pucks, crossbeams, etc., and it all seems like overkill.
I have 4 jack stands and a low profile jack. Can I just use a cut 2x4 and the jack to lift the entire front and slide under my jack stands? Then do the same for the back end? Or do I need to do one corner at a time? I want to do this tonight and I don't want to spend $100+ on something I don't really need. looking for real advice, not the safety crew telling me I need to spend an additional $200 before I can jack up my car. Thanks, CF |
I have a twin post at the house so whenever I need to pull off more then 1 wheel I just put it on that, however if I need to just pull off 1 wheel I will jack just that corner. I made pucks out of Delrin plastic for my jack and lift. I don’t see why a 2x4 wouldn’t work though. I have never jacked by the aluminum cross members I bet it’s pretty hard to get a jack all the way under the front one, especially with the air dam. Probably a lot easier to get to on the rear one, just be careful since they are aluminum. I would recommend going around to each corner and jacking on the factory lift points, knock that brake out then move onto the next one, one at a time that way you are safe and don't have to worry about damaging your car.
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Thanks for the input. Maybe I'll do just one wheel at a time. Was thinking it would be quicker if the car was up in stands itself. Maybe do an oil change at that time as well.
Wonder if I can lift one side, put it on stands, then lift the other side and put it on the remaining stands.... |
Originally Posted by CitznFish
(Post 1578319727)
Thanks for the input. Maybe I'll do just one wheel at a time. Was thinking it would be quicker if the car was up in stands itself. Maybe do an oil change at that time as well.
Wonder if I can lift one side, put it on stands, then lift the other side and put it on the remaining stands.... A brake job can be done one wheel at a time. An oil change can be done lifting the front drivers side. |
I use hockey pucks on my jack saddle and usually lift, and place jack stands, one side of the front at a time. I then use a 1x3x6 piece of oak on the jack, centered on the rear cross member, to lift the rear. Works great. You can lift the front, using this center lift, if you get the car up on "planks" so you can get the jack under. I would highly recommend getting a set (four or more) of used hockey pucks. I use them in the garage and take a set with us when we travel. I don't trust "Billie Bob" to lift my car without them. :D
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Did my brakes -- calipers, lines, pads -- this winter and jacked it up as you describe -- front and back.
However, I needed the pucks to place the jackstands. I guess I could have used the jackstands on the cross members, but that is where I was jacking from, so that's a problem. Plus, I wanted the stands out wider for stability. You can certainly do one wheel at a time, but much easier if all four are up, especially if you need to bleed the system. JMHO |
found this..
http://www.bugmanweb.com/c6/c6images...ackdiagram.jpg http://www.bugmanweb.com/c6/c6images...rontcenter.jpg http://www.bugmanweb.com/c6/jack.html So I'll try that route.... |
I need to remove my horizontal springs so I can put Coil over shocks on. And change the rotors to cross drilled. Any Ideas on jack for this application at home?
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GM only recommends you lift the C6 at the four areas they show in the Owners manual. Those four areas do not include the frame rails or the center of the aluminum crossmembers.
http://www.chevrolet.com/assets/pdf/...12corvette.pdf Check pages 10-5 & 10-6. Even though I have two 4-post lifts, when I want to remove the wheels to really detail the wheel wells I do it in my driveway so I don't make a mess in the garage. I have a pair of ramps that I made(required in order for me to get a jack under the front of my Z06) that I made from 2X12's stacked two high(3" of lift). I run the car up on the ramps and then I have a spreader bar I made from a 2X6 with 1/4" thick plywood pads(5.5" X 5.5") on the ends. The pads match the two points on the aluminum crossmember where GM says to jack the car. I then use my floor jack and raise the car, then I put the jack stands under the ends of the spreader bar. Removing the wheels is then a breeze. |
There is a guy on here, funvette-1nc, I think, who is doing a front wide body, after his fell off a jack doing the brakes. I have been reticent to jack mine, it just seems unstable on 4 stands at the crossbeams to me. To the point that i'm looking for a good scissor lift...That being said, a bunch on guys on here use the crossbeams and rocker jack points with no issues. Do a search for lifting, there is plenty...
Take your time and be careful, good luck! |
Originally Posted by Kiser64
(Post 1579647454)
There is a guy on here, funvette-1nc, I think, who is doing a front wide body, after his fell off a jack doing the brakes. I have been reticent to jack mine, it just seems unstable on 4 stands at the crossbeams to me. To the point that i'm looking for a good scissor lift...That being said, a bunch on guys on here use the crossbeams and rocker jack points with no issues. Do a search for lifting, there is plenty...
Take your time and be careful, good luck! |
What about drive up ramps, are they worth it?
This is the first car I have owned that sits this low and I like others am very skilled in the garage, but dont want to take a chance and mess up something by accident. |
Race Ramps are not inexpensive. But most forum members who have purchased them agree that the ramps are safe and convenient to use, easy to handle, and worth the price.
We offer custom two-stage incline Race Ramps that get excellent customer reviews on this forum. We currently have some special priced bundles for the two-stage incline ramps, accessory ramps and wheel cribs. http://www.reverselogic.us
Originally Posted by TJay74
(Post 1579648179)
What about drive up ramps, are they worth it?
This is the first car I have owned that sits this low and I like others am very skilled in the garage, but dont want to take a chance and mess up something by accident. |
Also food for thought...if you are going to remove the rotors for any reason...the caliper mounting bolts you need to remove can be a pain unless you have it on a lift.
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I have owned a ton of C5's and C6's. Have done at least 7 complete rotor and pad changes, last summer was the first time I have used hockey pucks, only because I don't want to wreck my side skirts on my ZR1. Just jack it up on those lift points and put stands under those recommended places shown above and you will be fine. :cheers:
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Its just a car, anyone with a half of a brain can use just a jack and throw a stand under the a-arn. One wheel at a time. People that are scared not using pucks shouldn't work on a car.
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I drive up on these home-made wooden ramps, then jack up the rear under the crossmember (with a 2x4 on top of the jack), and put the plastic ramps under the rear wheels. If I was to do a brake job, I would just raise up one end of the car at a time, and use jackstands.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67...E12A6D5B78.jpg http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a67...B952D812AC.jpg |
With all due respect, just because I'm asking questions does not make me stupid, or unable to work on my car. Did you just wake up one morning and know everything, I know I didn't.
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Thanks guy, this is a big help. I've been a contractor for 40 years. I can make these, Thanks
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Originally Posted by speedraider
(Post 1579651845)
Its just a car, anyone with a half of a brain can use just a jack and throw a stand under the a-arn. One wheel at a time. People that are scared not using pucks shouldn't work on a car.
People too obtuse to recognize their own ignorance should not work on cars. :cheers: |
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