How to test discharging generator
Went for a cruise in the '61 and the ammeter gauge suddenly showed a discharge. I put a voltmeter on the few month old battery and the car was running off the battery at a little over 12 volts. No voltage change or charge when raising the RPM'S. How do I isolate the generator from voltage regulator as the culprit? Battery is good and holds a load test. Thanks
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I don't know how the 61 is set up but the same thing happened to me last year in my 59..... it was the voltage regulator for sure... my generator has never failed and it is 53 years old... I think I replaced the brushes once back in the 70's...
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Forum members 1snake and buns each provided detailed testing procedures on this a few years ago. If you are unable to find their posts, I will look them up when I return home.
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Originally Posted by BobT59
(Post 1580555226)
I don't know how the 61 is set up but the same thing happened to me last year in my 59..... it was the voltage regulator for sure... my generator has never failed and it is 53 years old... I think I replaced the brushes once back in the 70's...
the generator will need brushes replaced periodically, but it is pretty bullet proof,, bearings go out if its been sitting a while or not lubed ... i like teh old repair manuals for working on these old cars, its how they did it in the day.... |
Originally Posted by 62Jeff
(Post 1580555858)
Forum members 1snake and buns each provided detailed testing procedures on this a few years ago. If you are unable to find their posts, I will look them up when I return home.
Grounded the regulator field to the regulator case and no change in voltage. Jumped the generator regulator terminal to the regulator batt terminal and just a very very slight drop page in voltage. |
Originally Posted by BobT59
(Post 1580555226)
I don't know how the 61 is set up but the same thing happened to me last year in my 59..... it was the voltage regulator for sure... my generator has never failed and it is 53 years old... I think I replaced the brushes once back in the 70's...
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Any parts store should have the regulator, they are about $30.
If yours is the original, you can have it rebuilt, John Pirkle restorations does them. http://www.johnpirkle.com/ John passed away, but apparently his son is continuing the business. :cheers: Paul |
Originally Posted by jtranger
(Post 1580555984)
Bob, Where did you get the regulator and does it have to be polarized?
NAPA had the same one but was alittle more.... |
Originally Posted by jtranger
(Post 1580554952)
. How do I isolate the generator from voltage regulator as the culprit? Battery is good and holds a load test. Thanks
Polarizing Regulator Correct - with the engine off, use a U-shaped insulated wire and touch it briefly to the "Bat" and "Gen" terminals at the same time; you'll get a juicy spark, and you're done http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1566729014-post14.html Testing Generator #1
Testing Generator #2
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Thanks Jeff! I hadn't seen that one. :thumbs:
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Dump that POS mechanical regulator and go solid state...there is only ONE source for this conversion in a generator car: http://www.wiltonae.com/home/index.aspx
I was maybe the first person to do this conversion on a C1 (according to the owner of Wilton Electric) 4 years back and haven't touched it since. Even bought a spare conversion just in case (haven't needed it yet). Totally invisible swap too. Get prepared for the naysayers that will tell you their mechanical V/R from the Jurassic epoch has never failed in two hundred years. I wonder why some people on here even have tool boxes as everything on their car lasts indefinitely. |
Here is a quick way to check the generator (in or out of the car):
• Disconnect all wires from the generator • Disconnect the fan belt • Ground the field terminal to the generator frame • Connect the armature terminal to the battery +12V* • Connect the battery -12V terminal to the generator frame The generator should now start running as a motor and turn at approximately 1000RPM * If you connect an ammeter between the armature terminal and battery you should read approximately 4.7 to 5.6 AMP. Pierre |
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