66 427/425hp or 68 427/435 alum heads?
 

I was hoping for some feedback, I am looking to purchase either a 1966 Corvette, original 427/425hp convertible car (includes hardtop, all numbers matching, restored approximately 15 years ago including mechanical rebuild, side pipes) some documentation but missing tank sticker. Beautiful car, runs excellent, reportedly mileage 68k, around $71,000. The second car is a 1968 Corvette roadster convertible, approx. 69k miles, 427/435 hp car, 4-speed, no hard top, soft top only, with original Aluminum heads (less than 2% had this option), older restoration back in the 90's, looks gorgeous, numbers correct car, documentation of all previous owners back to day one. Both cars i would give a #2 rating, both are close to NCRS judging. The 68 can be bought for around $52,000.00. Checking current vintage car values the 66 is below the book by $5,000.00 or more and the 68 is below the book by about the same amount. Which would be a better investment based on the data i have given you? Both only going to be used for occasional weekend drives and to the shows. Thanks for any input.

Thanks, forgot about no tank sticker on 66, as far as mechanical skills, i'm ok but if needed i have access to some master techs who knows how to keep them tuned. Thanks

From a value perspective, I would favor the car with the better documentation. The 68 L89 is a fantastic car, but a C2 big block is much more special to me. Which do you prefer, C2s or C3s? The C2 generally will get loads more attention.

I have to begin with saying don't buy either car thinking they are a monetary investment. :thumbs: Buy it because you like it.
When you say they are "close to NCRS judging", I don't think that says a lot. NCRS judging results can be a very wide range, Top Flight, Second Flight, Third Flight etc. A Third Flight car can be far from original and/or can have a number of condition issues.
Have you had someone well versed in C2 and C3 cars examine them? I think that would be well worth the time and expense.
Now, comparing a C2 to a C3 will be subjective but IMO the C2 will be 'easier' to deal with. The C3 vacuum 'stuff' can be a headache. :hide:

66 and 68 big blocks
 

If you don't mind you might take a look at these two cars, both are listed presently on Ebay and there local Craigslist. #1) 1966 Corvette roadster 427/425hp (Item #271143169252) located in Richmond, VA., then the other vehicle #2) 1968 Corvette roadster 427/435 L89 Alum heads (Item #281050065322, located in Charlotte, North Carolina. Does any of the forum members have knowledge or know either of these cars? I'm presently checking to see if i cain't find a specialty car shop in the area who could do a pre inspection of these cars. Thanks for any help..

66 vs 68
 

My plans would be to have a pre inspection of these cars done first and if they checked out and i could reach an reasonable price, i would fly out and inspect the vehicles myself prior to closing the deal on either vehicles! I have talked to both sellers by phone in some length about the cars already. Thanks

One thing that surprises me is that the 68, being a near survivor (one re-paint), doesn't have a tank sticker. Did the owner check the tank? My 67 tank sticker is still on the tank - and readable looking from near the gas filler neck (mine is a survivor). A re-paint doesn't mean you have to drop the tank.

Short of cars like the 68 L88 or the 66 with M22, these are the top of the food chain for their respective years. Make sure you get the cars verified one way or the other.

Here are the links:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sting...exp=true#v4-37

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ROADS...orcev4exp=true

66 vs 68 purchase
 

The owner on the 68 says he had checked and the tank sticker was gone! Doesn't make since to me why this would be missing based on the history of the car and the importance and value of this piece of document being a L71 with L89 heads! Still working on getting the vehicles checked out. Based on market value reviews the 68 is valued around $61,000. at a #2 rating (L89 heads increase value 80%) and the 66 rated at around $75,000.00 at #2 rating. Thanks

66 or 68
 

Thanks for posting the Ebay links...:yesnod:

It bothers me that neither posted any meaningful underside pictures. A picture or the spare tire carrier doesn't reveal much. For those prices and general descriptions, and in this economy - I would be expecting to see a very clean, mostly unrestored (or restored) underside.

When I look at the engine pictures of the 66 and see some simple little mickey mouse items that are simple fixes, I wonder what else exists throughout the car and what shortcuts might exist. For example, the braided plug wires do not appear to bolted to valve covers on the spark plug end. Also, the clutch fan has been replaced by an aluminum spacer and a fixed fan blade. The first is a no cost fix and simple, so why not do it when selling the car? Clutch fan is low cost relative to the price of the car, so why leave it as is? I would proceed with caution....

66 vs 68 purchase
 

A lot of valid questions! I've asked both for photos of the undercarriage! Thanks

I don't have a 66 AIM handy but, the braided lines on '65 396 engines attached to the shields around the plugs. Was the change to the valve cover bolts done in '66 or '67?

The '66 states incorrect distributor. The '66 425hp car must have TI ignition system.If the TI system is not present it is costly to add if NCRS type judging is your goal. If signs of it was never present would lead me to believe that it is not an original 425HP car. There is also no emblem on the hood. Could be a sign of front end repair. Of course the owner could prefer the look of a clean hood and the TI system could be there and just an incorrect distributor.Just a couple things to have looked into. Pretty looking car though

Investing large sums of money in a project you know very little about doesn't look to be the smartest move. If you know anything about the hobby a few changes and creative stamping can make an interesting high dollar car. You seem to be intrigued about L-88 aluminum heads... I can set you up with a pair dated, coded 1967. If your not interested in cars, repairs, history, or just being a gear head..... maybe you should start with an average 30k car of the series you think you would enjoy and go from there. One could not lose but only gain in value and information. The hobby needs drivers, not bankers holding and waiting for a value increase. This forum contains many people with a common interest in the Chevrolet Division. It is not the place to seek " what's the best investment " for my personal wealth.

Have we now got a new classification of "near survivor" cars?

The '68 is great motor color combo. Would like to see a much better picture of that stamp pad. Which ever car you choose important to have it inspected by someone who specializes in these cars.

It changed for 1967. 1965 and 66 BB cars have the ground attached to the plug shields.