Lowering Issue
 

Lowered my GS a few days ago, and cranked all four all the way counter-clockwise. I have a quarter inch difference between the front right, and front left, with the left side at 5" from bottom of the splitter, right at 5 1/4". Any idea why that would be?

Have u put some miles on after?...may need to settle
Did u count the turns u put on each bolt...equal?

Not a whole lot, been raining, and nasty here. I cranked them to their max, so counting wasn't a concern. I suppose I may need to let it settle more, and then re-adjust as needed. I should probably measure at the puck sites, instead of the splitter, now that I think of it.

Rain here too...better than snow i guess :canadaflag:

Yes and once you get her even dont forget to re align...

Yeah, only have about 100 miles on it, so no fear of tire wear yet. I'll get it realigned in the next month or so.

That's the way it is...too many variables makes it tough to have exact height on both sides when going equal turns. Not really a big deal...if it bothers you, raise the lower side up to accommodate.

Why not just adjust them the way you want them? Also realize that equal height at each corner does not mean equal weight and equal weight is a big factor in handling.

Did you have someone else measure with you in it? Your weight could throw it off even more.
Jeff

The reason is because you "cranked all four all the way" instead of turning each bolt an equal number of turns AND you are taking your measurements from exterior bolt on parts instead of the specific suspension parts the factory uses.

First, there's no guaranty your car was setup correctly from the factory and simply turning the bolts an equal number of turns (or all the way) is no guaranty the setup will be correct. Also, measuring off body panels isn't ideal either. I haven't done it with a stock suspension in a long time but there are specific steps and procedures to follow when adjusting the setup. This isn't complete but check tire pressures. Also note that the diameter of worn tires can differ quite-a-bit from side to side. You must also 'settle' the suspension before and during the measuring/adjusting process....and it is a process of measuring, adjusting, re-settling the suspension, measuring and adjusting again). It also helps immensely to have a dead level, drive-on lift to use....you want the car perfectly level when measuring and adjusting. Instead of measuring off of a body part or panel, try measuring off a hard point on the frame. I've often used what looks like an oval rivet head near to each of the oval frame slots on the frame (where jacking pucks go). These aren't subject to the variations of body panels. Frankly, with the stock suspension and measuring from a hard-point, a quarter inch variation may be the best you're going to get. Good luck!

In other words, did the job terribly and now things are not right.

Go somewhere that knows what they are doing, get it corner balanced as well as you can and get an alignment done.

You guys are funny....its not like its some sort of elaborate process. Lower and go....and corner balance on what I assume the OP has a fully street car...come on. BTW..you do not throw the alignment off that much when lowering on stock bolts, and if alignment was off..it was probably messed up from the start.

It SHOULD be an elaborate process. The height and corner weights are set at assembly and changing the height changes wheel alignment and corner weight. Corner weight isn't important for street driving but alignment is important. Tires are expensive.

Terribly huh? I wonder if it was right from the factory, because we all know every Vette comes from the factory perfect, alignments on the spot, etc, right? I don't plan on racing the car, or taking it to it's top speed, it's a street car, I don't much care if it's so tight, that a bird s**t throws the balance off. It also aint my first Vette, I've lowered my previous three without wheels falling off, the engines exploding, or body parts melting. I was simply asking how each bolt being turned to the same end distance, could result in a quarter difference.

:iagree:


if you lowered all 4 all the way down and it doesn't sit even after a few miles, I would probably rejack it and make sure all 4 bolts are all the way down. Perhaps you didn't relieve quite enough stress off 1 of the sides so the bolt didn't go as low as the others? Just throwing out a guess here

Not bothered, just curious. I'll drive it some, let it settle, and re-adjust as needed.

Static corner weights are not set at Bowling Green. Sounds like the OP is lowering his car for a better look.

Let me be a little more clear...I'm not complaining, or upset, I was simply asking a question about how bolts with the same number of threads, turned to their max, be it up/down, can have such a difference. I didn't do anything that can't be undone, and have destroyed nothing. I also mentioned in my second post, that I probably should have measured off the frame. No big deal, and no reason for some to be condescending. I've drive the car some, let it settle, re-adjust, let it settle, and when I feel I have it where I want it, I'll have it realigned. Not setting the car up for a nascar title run :willy:

Exactly, there was a huge gap between the fenders, and wheels, I was trying to narrow that some. Which I've done on my 08 Coupe, my 08 Z06, my 11 Coupe, and now this one.

Appreciate it. And it could be my garage floor aint perfect either, who knows. You'd think some of these guys are crew chiefs, and you are f***ing with their title chase :rofl: