Harmonic Balancer just failed...HELP
 

I have a 2005 auto coupe with 95k miles. So after reading past post it seems that I have to get an

ATI Super Harmonic Balancer
ARP bolt

Use NEW BOLT, with LOCTITE & new belts.

Does anyone have the part numbers for these parts? I'm doing the work my self...any special tools needed? How to articles? Tips from people that have done this before

2005 95K miles...

Check your tie rod ends and their rubber boots... This will be the time to replace them since you have the rack off and will need an alignment afterwards.

Time to replace the Anti-freeze

Replace the power steering fluid

Replace belts and pulleys

You can get to the water pump

Do not disconnect any lines going to the ABS pump.

You will need to get a Chrysler Harmonic Balancer puller.
You will need a longer bolt or the HB installer tool. The oem bolt is too short to install the new HB.

Put the new HB in the oven at 250. It will slide on a lot easier, about 1/2". Should be able to use the ARP bolt to pull it on then.

Good info^^^^^^^

This absolutely did not work!

Also, You want as many threads in the crankshaft as possible to slide the HB on. Get the right tool for the job.
Do not use the ARP bolt or a new OEM bolt to slide on the HB.
The New bolt goes on last after the HB is seated on the crankshaft.
It goes on last and then gets torqued. There is a reason why they call for a new bolt.
The service document says to use the old HB bolt to install the HB after the HB install tool is a its limit.


If you only have a few threads, you risk damaging your Crankshaft and that will be a whole lot of money.

Also, Replace the crank shaft main seal which seals the HB to the crank case.

Worked fine for me about two months ago.

Maybe luck...
I tried that tip, I saw it on the C5 forum.
The HB did not even make it an eighth of an inch...
Which I am OK with. I would rather have my Harmonic Balancer go on as tight a possible from the beginning to end.

A mechanic at the local Chevy dealer loaned me his longer bolt to install the new balancer so I didn't need to find the install tool.

This is a job I never ever want to do again.

there's a guy named froggy on youtube that has video of this repair. Maybe check it out.

Curious. Your VIN under 11039?

Thanks for the good advice. The Chrysler HB puller...is that a tool for chrysler specific cars or that's just how it's called?
I was going to replace all of the belts...but do I also need to replace the pulleys? (the pulleys are the round circles with/with out grooves where the belt goes correct)
Is it because they wear down over time?

Yes...Ends in 04868

You're going to go to your Auto parts store and ask them for a loaner Chrysler Harmonic Balancer tool.
Your HB doesn't have bolt holes for a generic HB puller.
A pulley puller will destroy the pulley and remove the pulley from the hub.
The Chrysler will allow you to hook the hub and has a shaft which goes into the crank.

The pulleys are spring loaded. They apply the correct tension to your belts.
At 95K miles, it is not a bad idea to replace these. They are under 20.00 each.

When I bought my car, My HB was bad.
It is not uncommon for me to drive a car 1000 miles in a day.
The first month of ownership of any car I buy, I go through everything and make sure everything works properly.

I have put 4000.00 in parts in my Vette since January.
That includes; HB, Tires, wheels, radio, Axle shafts, wheel bearings, fluids...
I have over 20K miles on my Vette since January.
It has not left me stranded, yet.
I will say one of my wheel bearings had me worried, but I did make it home.

Who ever gets my car at 200K miles will be a happy camper.

the rack has nothing to do with alignment

Mike, I assume you mean replace the belt tensioner, not the pulleys as you keep saying, correct? There's no reason to replace all the pulleys, but replacing the tensioner isn't bad advice at almost 100k miles.

Why do you HAVE to use an ATI HB? I went with the Power bond SFI version for Corvette's and could not be happier! I had Vengeance Racing in Cumming Ga do the work and could not be happier with them. they did it while I waited they came right in the 3 hours GM calls for and $95.00 an hour shop time even a blue collar guy like me can live with. My car 2006 MN6 LS2 and like I've always tried to tell you forum engineers, machines leak,make noise, smell funny, and not every thing spins like a precision lathe. With the new HB and arp bolt installed the HB and the bolt DOES NOT run in a perfect circle, that being said, before when the car was cold first drive of the day I had what is best described as a lifter tap is now gone! LS2's are known, for lack of a better word a "bent" crank snout. I had only wanted to change the HB because when cold the belt squeaked with the wobble the HB had.

you have idler pulley's and pulley's on the tensioner $20 bucks is cheap insurance, I love it $50.000 car and their always trying to do things on the cheap

Gotcha. :thumbs: The other poster simply said replace "the pulleys" which seems to imply all of them, which would include alternator, PS pump, crank and water pump, none of which should need replacing. Sorry for not saying that in my first post.

VIN's before 11039 were more prone to failure, and they started the redos with the diamond embedded washer at that time. (DEW). I haven't heard of any going bad after that repair. I had mine done (VIN 4997) during year 4 as I recall on extended warranty as a preventative measure.

The service bulletin says Alignment with HB replacement.
The rack is easier to move out of the way with the tie rods ends off.

When I did mine the tie Rod end boots were done, worn through... I had to get an alignment.
My rear tie rod end boots are gone now but not through the rubber just yet... That will require an alignment, as well.