Which bonding adhesive for metal to fiberglass??
 

Looking for a bonding adhesive to bond the front metal reinforcement to the fiberglass. This is the metal strip that sits in front of the headlights and goes from one side of the car to the other, it rivets and bonds to the underside of the fiberglass. A auto paint supplier had some Fusor 180 (I think 180 was the number) which they said might work but was not sure.....does anyone know of the standard adhesive that is used for this application. I'm heading to the store tomorrow and would like to pick something up.....thanks.

Re: Which bonding adhesive for metal to fiberglass?? (Rods77)
 

I used evercoat no. 870 (I think????). It is a two part epoxy with a 1:1 mixing ratio. It works good.

Re: Which bonding adhesive for metal to fiberglass?? (Rods77)
 

Rod,
I rebonded the headlight support using 3M Super Fast Urathane Part# 08609. This stuff is awesome.
I was instructed to use this stuff by a very reputable Vette restorer. He has used it for years with no problems.
You can buy this stuff at any 3M dealer. I got mine at Advance Auto.

Stew

Re: Which bonding adhesive for metal to fiberglass?? (Dalannex)
 

I used the Fusor on my 79 when I redid it two years ago. Not sure of the number, but check out ecklers fotr the right number. I was able to find it locally for a couple of $$ less the Ecklers and not pay shipping. Once you use the stuff you will keep it around the shop and be amazed on how often you can use it. That reminds me I'm almost out of fit

Re: Which bonding adhesive for metal to fiberglass?? (toyvet1)
 

Yeah, the Fuser stuff is OK. But if you all want to learn about BONDING, go to the West System website and learn about modern epoxy-glass techniques. We build boats with this stuff. It is much stronger and more resistant to molecular water invasion than is any polyester resin. If you follow instructions, West System is both superior and FOOL proof. The system is extremely versitile. Available at any marine store, but look at the website...WestSystem.com

Re: Which bonding adhesive for metal to fiberglass?? (plbart3)
 

I used West System on mine. We build cold-molded wooden boats with this and as plbart3 says, it is awesome.

Re: Which bonding adhesive for metal to fiberglass?? (Frank75)
 

Frank, I think the best help re fiberglass repair that anyone can post on this forum is West System info. Right now I have in front of me the rear jack/battery door assembly out of an '81. I was going to throw it out and get a new one, but the silver carpet was in good shape and faded to match the rest of the rugs. The doors were cracked and missing pieces and the frame was broken in half. Most of the hinge tabs were missing. In a word...junk.

But I like to mess with epoxy. I reinforced the edges of the frame with glass cloth (actually strips of old fiberglass curtains...any port in a storm) and straight 105/205 resin. Whenever I had extra resin I filled the spine between the doors with bits of cloth, sanding dust etc. You know the drill.

Then I took some plastic tubing I had from the model shop and glued it to the hinge faces on the doors, shaping everything with a Dremel. I could have used wood if I didn't have the plastic. I covered the voids using the refill tubes from ballpoint pens, which were cut away when the glue dried. A little filing and sanding and the door hinges fit the frame. I kept the wires in place and protected them from running glue with candle wax where necessary.

Son of a gun. Some 3M Marine Putty to get rid of the fake leather texturing, primer, 400 grit finish, and I'm putting the final coat of Rustoleum Dove Grey paint on the thing. And as they say, much better than new. I truly believe there is nothing you can't do with West System epoxy. Unless you are in the boat building business I guess it is hard to appreciate the superiority of epoxy over polyester. Paul

Corvette metal to fiberglass
 

Oem application 1984 to current
plio grip by valvoline - plastic panel 35 stock#8006
35 minute work time 1.5 hr clamp/sand time,2.0 hr paint time
lifetime warrn thru ashland corp.

Have multi customers using it with great results!

:iagree:
Composite to metal should be a urethane structural adhesive. Epoxy is old tech. Both exhibit equal strength failures, with the pliogrip being much less severe.
Rigid composite to composite should still be epoxy.
Ashland Pliogrip Structure Adhesive
Used by GM oem and repairs.

Here is the answer no one else will give. I have added many custom fiberglass tank extensions on metal motorcycle tanks and used a standard heavy duty industrial strength adhesive similar to liquid nails. In every instance under heavy use every single one is still looking perfect, none have ever come loose and it has been a lot of years on the first ones. The only difference is that I painted and sealed over them. I am not sure if that would work, but don't see why it would not. Just my 2 cents. :O)

plastic to metal adhesive
 

Your sucess with fiberglass to metal with the tanks on motorcycles is great - but for a more rigid situation such as inner fenders to chassis on corvetts - tubs - rear sections the plio grip by valvoline ease of workability and if it is for a paying customer,it is warranted for life if deemed a product failure,with 2 yr shelf life.qualities shop owners
admire. Much sucess with the bikes!

I used T21...made by LORD FUSOR. This epoxy bonds steel (that is primed) to fiberglass/SMC. Kinda pricey but it worked for me.

I recently did this same project. I had the rivet pops on the front end of my 72 I wanted gone. When I put it back together, I used West Six10. It's a 2 part mix that comes in a single tube just like standard caulk. It's mixed as it's dispensed. West sells a caulk gun designed for this tube, but you can make it work with a standard caulking gun. You just have to convince the tube to go into the gun. One tube was more than enough to do the header bar, cost me about $20, and I'm thrilled with it.

I understand. However I have also used it for flares on a 4X4 truck that went through years of extreme offroad use when I lived in Wyoming with no failure. I was just trying to present a cheap alternative fpr the DIY guy like myself. I need to quit citing examples on anything other than Vettes. :D

I have used 3M Structural Adhesive, two part system, works great, but you have to work fast.

I used this on mine with great results.

http://i56.tinypic.com/33bn5a8.jpg

This is what I used. Read the instructions. It's not suppose to be compatable with any polyester based fillers.

Removal of body from frame of an 07 c6
 

Does anyone know the procedure to remove the epoxy which holds the body to the frame,the current body suffered damage to the rear so i purchased a donor and dont know exactly where to start or how to begin the removal of the body from either car.

Any and all knowledge would be very helpful.


Thanks

Good morning Charles. Welcome to the forum, and thanks for asking your question... but this is the C3 section and your C6 is built and bonded differently than our cars. You've a better shot finding someone with direct experience with your car in C6 General, or over in the Paint and Body section where the pros hang out. Sounds like you have an exciting project going... have fun!

The fiberglass of the door on my 73’ has become partially unglued from the steel structure of the door. The adhesive failure is just above the mirror mount causing the mirror to shake on the road and when the door is shut (not the mirror mount being loose). The failure is a seam about a foot long and I am considering the Valvoline Pliogrip due to GM using it for so long. Where can I get this? And is this ok to use for this area of the car? What prep should I do? Get rid of the original glue and clean it with what? Thanks for the help!
BG