gkull

A pan can fit and be 9 inches deep and hit the pavement on speed bumps or even going into a gas station.

Vettes need a shallow front pan to clear the steering and 8.5 or less rear.


My headers are lower than my pan so my headers will scrape before I take out the oil pan. I think stock vette pans are something like 7.0 inches.

I would talk to Dart about what fits a little M block

RDCRIS

I have a 434 dart little m block. If your cylinders and pistons are ok leave it alone, otherwise bore it to a 434.

KJL

Other than cost, is there a another reason why you have this opinion?

KJL

I currently have a Moroso 7 quart pan for stroker motor. It fits just fine but is a low dollar unit, no kick out rails or windage screens.

KJL

Looked into it further, My old pan was a Moroso MOR-20195 and it had a 8.25" depth and accepted a max stroke of 4.125. It hung low but never knocked it off.... Calling Milodon in the morning. I def want the unit thta has the windage "Stuff" mounted in the pan.

RDCRIS

Nope cost would be the only reason, 7 cubes is 7 cubes it's your motor. You should do what makes you happy because in the end if your not happy with the 427 you'll always will think you should have done the 434.

I went with the 434 after speaking with the people I bought it from and a guy had just built a 434 that went into a 66 vette and they said it turned out to be nice combo for him. Cubes are one thing but if the rest of the parts don't take advantage of the cubes it's money not well spent.

I built this motor in 2004 and haven't had a problem with what so ever, put a lot of good parts in the bottom end and top end, it regularly sees 7000rpm knock on wood no troubles. I run a JESSEL shaft rocker set-up and solid roller cam that spec's out at
.675 in / .624 ex from Howards Cams. It idles at 900rpm no problem.


What's your goal with this motor?

bluedawg

If your going with one of the better pans, the windage try mounts to the mains using milodons studs and if your having the mains line honed you might want that done with the studs that come with the tray.

KJL

I guess it is what everybody wants, kick a$$ power and torque at all rpms, the ability to idle like a kitten and smoke the tires off of the car upon demand, shake the neighbors windows every time I fire her up with that 3" exhaust, be able to brag how much bigger mine is than yours at local car shows and have my future grandchildren say what a crazy MF Pepe was. I don't plan on going quietly into the night.

Seriously, I am planning a similar build to yours. How much work are those solid rollers? Do they require frequent adjustment?

I have no idea what the new cam specs will be as of yet. This car will not be raced. I am having Tony Mamo port a set of AFR 245's for me and grind the cam, also going the shaft rocker route. The bottom end if I recall has eagle H-Beam rods and 4340 crank and Ross flat top pistons. Have you have the car or engine on a dyno?

KJL

Looks like I will have to settle with one less than better then. I am not a fan of bolting stuff to the main caps. interferes with torquing etc.

StraubTech

If you are going with the AFR245 then you will have to go solid roller as the that head requires an offset lifter. Hyd rollers do not come in offsets. I don't recommend an .842" offset lifter for endurance so you really need to go to a .903" lifter to take the side clearance load the lifter will see since the .903" has a larger wheel. Lifter bores will have to be machined in the block to accept the larger lifter.

KJL

Great.....$$$ Thanks for the heads up. If you ever find yourself in Atlanta, please let me know. If I have any money left at the end of this I will take what is left, fill my tank and buy you a beer....or two.

KJL

I did some checking and found an article in CarCraft that says the AFR 245 NPP head, if 0.550" offset rockers are used, standard lifters can also be used. Still concerned about the durability and not sure what is involved with checking lifters for wear. the 0.903's still may be the way to go.

StraubTech

I witnessed this attempt by an engine builder late last year to try that. Tried going hyd roller on center. It spit pushrods out on the dyno and spit them out in the car after they "ground some clearance" in the head. It was an "abortion".

Fix, .180" offset lifters, heads came back off engine for clearance grinding, cam changed out to solid roller.

68post

Strauby, what's your take on the solid bushing roller wheels , better than needle bearings ??

I would think a street application would almost warrant their use !? Or are there better oiling lifters that equal these ?

Thanks, TK

StraubTech

The Morel patented the bushing lifter back around 1990. Since then the patent is out and other have begun the long journey of figuring out what they need to use to build bushing lifters.

Bushings have their place but one thing all must undertand, they do wear out and have to be rebuilt. Some think you put these in and your done. NOT the case. I feel the bushing is the choice if you have an aggressive cam profile that requires a high spring rate and you need longevity out of it.

If I had the choice of a .842" Bushing lifter or a .903" needle bearing...I would go .903".

KJL

The 245 AFR ported heads from Tony Mamo arrived Friday. They are really more works of art than anything. Engine is at Bary Grimes getting checked out and over-bored to 434 cc. Cam, shaft rockers and ported Titan intake to arrive shortly.

pauldana

Milidon 7qt pan.

510RWHP 427

TheSkunkWorks

Not my project, but certainly I wouldn't get caught up in bench racing mentality over 7 CID in a less than all-out racing for money engine build, especially at the cost of unnecessarily over-boring perfectly good cylinders. My $.02, YMMV.

MotorHead

My general rule of thumb is if it doesn't need an overbore then leave it. That way the block is still good for more rebuilds. The HP gained in 7 cubes is miniscule compared to the HP you are going to make with those heads and a solid roller cam.

KJL

Paul, thanks for the pic. I contacted Milodon and they recommended a slightly different pan than that for me. I haven't taken it out of the box yet but I believe it is a 6 quart unit with the windage tray bolted into the pan #30908). Is that an older pic of your car? I thought you had an after market cross member? I am going with the BTO unit. I will need to spend some time dialing in my drive line angles as well.