C3 AC-conversion for R12 ?
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
C3 AC-conversion for R12 ?
Hello all, I recently replaced a bearing in my 77's AC compressor because it was making noise a couple years back when I used it last. For the past couple of years, I have just not used the AC (I actually just removed the belt so it would not turn the pulley). Anyway, after recently replacing the bearing, the air blows hot although the clutch does kick in and turns the compressor. I obviously need to recharge the system. Does anyone know if there is a "drop in" replacement for the R12 without having to install a conversion kit to the system? I have contemplated replacing the compressor etc., to convert over to the R134A, but if there is a exact replacement for the R12, I would rather go that route to get it back up and running at a lower cost.
Thanks
Thanks
#2
Advanced
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Hello all, I recently replaced a bearing in my 77's AC compressor because it was making noise a couple years back when I used it last. For the past couple of years, I have just not used the AC (I actually just removed the belt so it would not turn the pulley). Anyway, after recently replacing the bearing, the air blows hot although the clutch does kick in and turns the compressor. I obviously need to recharge the system. Does anyone know if there is a "drop in" replacement for the R12 without having to install a conversion kit to the system? I have contemplated replacing the compressor etc., to convert over to the R134A, but if there is a exact replacement for the R12, I would rather go that route to get it back up and running at a lower cost.
Thanks
Thanks
#3
Team Owner
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R12 is still available to licensed AC technicians. If you want to convert to R134a, there are several do it yourself kits. Any competent automative AC shop can also do the conversion for you.
#4
Racer
Thread Starter
Thanks guys. I usually try to do as much as I can myself to save some $$$$'s which is why I was hoping there was a "drop in" refrigerant that I could buy myself and recharge the AC. I will do some checking around to see if any of the local shops in my area still have R12 and see what it will cost me. My guess is that the R12 won't be cheap, but with the heat we have had this summer, I gotta get that AC fixed so I can enjoy the car.
#5
Burning Brakes
I converted mine to R-134 in 2010. I did it so that I could get it charged/serviced anywhere, anytime....like in the middle of a road trip.
It will drop the temps 40-45 degrees depending on the outside temperature. I also switched many other items in the system to wring as much performance from it as I could.
Good Luck
It will drop the temps 40-45 degrees depending on the outside temperature. I also switched many other items in the system to wring as much performance from it as I could.
Good Luck
#6
Drifting
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Location: grand prairie texas
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I have been buying my R12 on craigslist for as low as $10 dollars a can from individuals and not needing the licence. They used to sell a substitute called freeze 12 but I have not seen it on sale for awhile. You mentioned your clutch is kicking in so you may not be have a refrigerant problem since your low pressure switch is not disengaging the compressor. Can you see any bubbles or any refrigerant movement in the sight glass on your right fender well?
#7
Race Director
Thanks guys. I usually try to do as much as I can myself to save some $$$$'s which is why I was hoping there was a "drop in" refrigerant that I could buy myself and recharge the AC. I will do some checking around to see if any of the local shops in my area still have R12 and see what it will cost me. My guess is that the R12 won't be cheap, but with the heat we have had this summer, I gotta get that AC fixed so I can enjoy the car.
Tom...
#8
Team Owner
The shop that's worked on our `73 said as long as all the components worked, don't change. They also said that R12 simply "cools better"- it was available locally and that's what we're running.
#9
Racer
Thread Starter
I have been buying my R12 on craigslist for as low as $10 dollars a can from individuals and not needing the licence. They used to sell a substitute called freeze 12 but I have not seen it on sale for awhile. You mentioned your clutch is kicking in so you may not be have a refrigerant problem since your low pressure switch is not disengaging the compressor. Can you see any bubbles or any refrigerant movement in the sight glass on your right fender well?
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Is anyone familiar with Duracool 12a ? A company in Canada makes this stuff. My brother called and talked to them yesterday and was told that this stuff is an exact drop in for R12. Just curious is anyone has heard of this stuff and or has used it?
#11
Drifting
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Throw the gauges on the system and see if there is any pressure diffenential between the high and low side. It sounds like your compressor has internally failed. If you do have a failed compressor you are going to have to replace the orifice tube which catches all the compressor trash and I would flush out the system and put a new acumulator on it. The accumulator and orifice tube are pretty cheap its a pain in the butt to get that accumulator out on the 77's. I have not heard of the duracool 12a but like I mentioned check the availibility of real r12 on craigslist and also found it plentiful for sale at automotive swap meets.
#12
Burning Brakes
77 was the change over year between VIR system and orifice tube. OP needs to determine which system he has. I suggest he take it to an AC shop for system test before going any further.
#13
Race Director
http://www.epa.gov/spdpublc/snap/ref.../macssubs.html
#14
Burning Brakes
With a conversion from r-12 you lose cooling capacity, about a 1/2 ton.I used to do refrigeration and have about 80 pounds of r-12. One 50 lb cylinder never open and a 50 lb that I have used from.If you buy a cylinder that has a black valve it may not be virgin refrigerant, if it has a green valve it has a check valve so you cannot recover refrigerant back into that cylinder. If you can buy r-12 for $10.00 that is the way I would go. For a restoration yes use 12. Before recharging get a vacuum pump. Pump system down. Break the vacuum with nitrogen, pump down again, break vacuum with nitrogen. then pump down and recharge. Assuming you have not found a leak while pumping system down.
#15
I have been buying my R12 on craigslist for as low as $10 dollars a can from individuals and not needing the licence. They used to sell a substitute called freeze 12 but I have not seen it on sale for awhile. You mentioned your clutch is kicking in so you may not be have a refrigerant problem since your low pressure switch is not disengaging the compressor. Can you see any bubbles or any refrigerant movement in the sight glass on your right fender well?
#16
Instructor
I got mine working with a product called Envirosafe. (Google it) Some members here may not agree, but it worked for me. I replaced the hoses and O rings, removed the V I R and cleaned out all the yuck. Got a rebuild kit from NAPA, (service kit no.208517) No problems in 3 years.
#17
Race Director
I did a search on the EPA site for Envirosafe and it appears that Envirosafe is R22a intended for use in industrial a/c systems and is a butane blend.
Wonder why a two year old thread was brought back to life
Tom...
Wonder why a two year old thread was brought back to life
Tom...
#18
Le Mans Master
I got mine working with a product called Envirosafe. (Google it) Some members here may not agree, but it worked for me. I replaced the hoses and O rings, removed the V I R and cleaned out all the yuck. Got a rebuild kit from NAPA, (service kit no.208517) No problems in 3 years.
Last edited by Wrecked82; 11-22-2014 at 06:22 PM.