For all the E85 Gurus - help needed.
07-22-2016, 06:26 PM
#22
07-22-2016, 06:32 PM
#23
Drifting
boost pressure is really irrelevant. It is a measure of restriction. You could put that same YSI on 2 C5s and get different hp/tq at the same boost pressure if their plumbing and intercooler are different size and flow differently.
07-22-2016, 06:43 PM
#24
Very true. I am speculating as of now, but from people who run the same setup say around 10lbs of boost will get you to anywhere from 550-600. I will see what its like when I get it all on my setup but just want to make sure everything will work properly before I install everything.
07-22-2016, 06:57 PM
#25
Drifting
If you have a big head unit and want small boost then you could end up with a lazy car and not making power till the very end of your power band. If you want to make 550-600 you could be better off with a smaller head unit and pullied more aggressively. It will make power sooner and have a better power band.
Some guys pulley big head units aggressively but then use a restrictor plate to keep the hp number down. There are guys making around 800 on stock bottom ends.
Some guys pulley big head units aggressively but then use a restrictor plate to keep the hp number down. There are guys making around 800 on stock bottom ends.
07-22-2016, 07:02 PM
#26
Drifting
If you have a big head unit and want small boost then you could end up with a lazy car and not making power till the very end of your power band. If you want to make 550-600 you could be better off with a smaller head unit and pullied more aggressively. It will make power sooner and have a better power band.
Some guys pulley big head units aggressively but then use a restrictor plate to keep the hp number down. There are guys making around 800 on stock bottom ends.
Some guys pulley big head units aggressively but then use a restrictor plate to keep the hp number down. There are guys making around 800 on stock bottom ends.
07-22-2016, 07:09 PM
#27
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If you have a big head unit and want small boost then you could end up with a lazy car and not making power till the very end of your power band. If you want to make 550-600 you could be better off with a smaller head unit and pullied more aggressively. It will make power sooner and have a better power band.
Some guys pulley big head units aggressively but then use a restrictor plate to keep the hp number down. There are guys making around 800 on stock bottom ends.
Some guys pulley big head units aggressively but then use a restrictor plate to keep the hp number down. There are guys making around 800 on stock bottom ends.
This is similar to putting too big a turbo on a car. Sure, it'll make power, but not where you want it to be.
07-22-2016, 07:14 PM
#28
This right here is why you might not want a YSi for your application. A smaller head unit will be in its greatest efficiency range to provide you with better power over the entire curve.
This is similar to putting too big a turbo on a car. Sure, it'll make power, but not where you want it to be.
This is similar to putting too big a turbo on a car. Sure, it'll make power, but not where you want it to be.
Thank you again for all the info
07-23-2016, 01:39 AM
#31
Melting Slicks
my setup is a home made A&A i put together. full time E85
initially a nitrous car, so the secondary pump relay was activated with the nitrous activation switch, left the factory fuel system in place.
I put a check valve on the secondary, so I can run the factory system without it trying to return through the secondary system, when it's not in use. have to use the earlier style filter (non regulated) doing this setup.
modified the stock rail to make it return, 6AN if i remember correctly.
If i was doing it again, i'll get the A&A fuel hat thingy. just a bit cleaner and reversible install. This works if you have time and you're handy.
looking at you options now, UPP is pretty close to what I spend cost wise. But I have 10AN and higher quality parts routed a bit cleaner
can see some pics here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/842134...57634982291797
initially a nitrous car, so the secondary pump relay was activated with the nitrous activation switch, left the factory fuel system in place.
I put a check valve on the secondary, so I can run the factory system without it trying to return through the secondary system, when it's not in use. have to use the earlier style filter (non regulated) doing this setup.
modified the stock rail to make it return, 6AN if i remember correctly.
If i was doing it again, i'll get the A&A fuel hat thingy. just a bit cleaner and reversible install. This works if you have time and you're handy.
looking at you options now, UPP is pretty close to what I spend cost wise. But I have 10AN and higher quality parts routed a bit cleaner
can see some pics here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/842134...57634982291797
07-23-2016, 07:08 AM
#32
Melting Slicks
Boost depends on blower and cubic inches. My Novi 2200 only makes 7.5lbs boost on my LS3 418 with a 3.6" pulley and made 650rwhp. It does allow for a LOT of room to ramp it on up !! Plus the tuner set it at 16 degrees of timing (very conservative) and said it could easily handle 20-21 degrees. It would, of course, make more boost on an LS1, due to volume of air going into 346 cubic inches.
07-23-2016, 04:59 PM
#33
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I have a Lonnies Double Pumper in my car. Yes it's twin pumps, but their feed lines intersect before going to the factory bucket and exit line. So you're restricted to 3/8" single line (-6) coming out of the factory bucket connection still. On E85 you'll restrict your capability there.
07-24-2016, 12:15 AM
#35
my setup is a home made A&A i put together. full time E85
initially a nitrous car, so the secondary pump relay was activated with the nitrous activation switch, left the factory fuel system in place.
I put a check valve on the secondary, so I can run the factory system without it trying to return through the secondary system, when it's not in use. have to use the earlier style filter (non regulated) doing this setup.
modified the stock rail to make it return, 6AN if i remember correctly.
If i was doing it again, i'll get the A&A fuel hat thingy. just a bit cleaner and reversible install. This works if you have time and you're handy.
looking at you options now, UPP is pretty close to what I spend cost wise. But I have 10AN and higher quality parts routed a bit cleaner
can see some pics here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/842134...57634982291797
initially a nitrous car, so the secondary pump relay was activated with the nitrous activation switch, left the factory fuel system in place.
I put a check valve on the secondary, so I can run the factory system without it trying to return through the secondary system, when it's not in use. have to use the earlier style filter (non regulated) doing this setup.
modified the stock rail to make it return, 6AN if i remember correctly.
If i was doing it again, i'll get the A&A fuel hat thingy. just a bit cleaner and reversible install. This works if you have time and you're handy.
looking at you options now, UPP is pretty close to what I spend cost wise. But I have 10AN and higher quality parts routed a bit cleaner
can see some pics here
https://www.flickr.com/photos/842134...57634982291797
07-24-2016, 12:17 AM
#36
Boost depends on blower and cubic inches. My Novi 2200 only makes 7.5lbs boost on my LS3 418 with a 3.6" pulley and made 650rwhp. It does allow for a LOT of room to ramp it on up !! Plus the tuner set it at 16 degrees of timing (very conservative) and said it could easily handle 20-21 degrees. It would, of course, make more boost on an LS1, due to volume of air going into 346 cubic inches.
07-24-2016, 12:19 AM
#38
Yeah that's what I'm thinking.. I think it can run what like 26lbs at 825 HP? I feel like that would be plenty of power for me. I don't want to full out on this car but I do want to have a fun amount of horsepower
07-24-2016, 03:35 AM
#39
Le Mans Master
I would keep the YSI... It would be dumb to trade it for a 1500... That guy is hustling you.
No reason to not use the YSI...they are very efficient and make good power. Pulley it to where you want to stop making power...you could also put a restrictor in the air inlet so you can still spin the YSI fast enough to make some midrange.. However, I have never heard of a YSI being lazy, regardless of what pullies are on it.
Not to mention, in 6 months you'll want more power and wish you had kept the YSI to make 900-1k.
For now, pulley it to make 9-10 psi on a stock motor and make an easy 600.
No reason to not use the YSI...they are very efficient and make good power. Pulley it to where you want to stop making power...you could also put a restrictor in the air inlet so you can still spin the YSI fast enough to make some midrange.. However, I have never heard of a YSI being lazy, regardless of what pullies are on it.
Not to mention, in 6 months you'll want more power and wish you had kept the YSI to make 900-1k.
For now, pulley it to make 9-10 psi on a stock motor and make an easy 600.
07-26-2016, 06:10 PM
#40
I would keep the YSI... It would be dumb to trade it for a 1500...
No reason to not use the YSI...they are very efficient and make good power. Pulley it to where you want to stop making power...I have never heard of a YSI being lazy, regardless of what pullies are on it.
Not to mention, in 6 months you'll want more power and wish you had kept the YSI to make 900-1k.
For now, pulley it to make 9-10 psi on a stock motor and make an easy 600.
No reason to not use the YSI...they are very efficient and make good power. Pulley it to where you want to stop making power...I have never heard of a YSI being lazy, regardless of what pullies are on it.
Not to mention, in 6 months you'll want more power and wish you had kept the YSI to make 900-1k.
For now, pulley it to make 9-10 psi on a stock motor and make an easy 600.
^^^^ I 100% agree with everything above.
Keep the YSi. I can promise you, you will regret getting rid of it for a smaller blower. Just a matter of time. You'll want more power eventually.