XSPower Longtube Header Thread
#1
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
*SALE* XSPower Longtube Header Thread *Sale from 9/28 - 10/4*
Well guys, the first guys to pick up a set of XSPower headers had them delivered ahead of schedule and dropped off yesterday! Post your reviews, questions, install questions/tips/help, etc here! Hope everyone is pleased with the service!
-Jon
-Jon
Last edited by Superman09; 09-29-2015 at 03:17 PM.
#2
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Here is the process I followed to remove my stock exhaust. I just made some notes of what I did and put them together for any of you that may want some direction of how to get the stock exhaust off. This is what I did!
1.) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2.) Remove Oil Fill cap and Fuel Rail Covers http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00030.jpg
3.) Remove spark plug wires from coil packs, simply pull out. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00031.jpg
4.) Having another buddy to tackle one side of the engine bay while you tackle the other is very beneficial/time saving if you can trust their work! http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00037.jpg
5.) Disconnect connection on both coil packs. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00034.jpg
6.) Remove bolts connecting coil pack brackets to valve covers (10mm) http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00035.jpg
7.) Remove coil packs on brackets from the valve covers. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00039.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00043.jpg
8.) Remove oil dipstick tube on passenger side. (10mm bolt on manifold) http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00048.jpg
9.) Disconnect AIR fittings from manifolds on both sides. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00046.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00049.jpg
10.) Remove the accessory belt
11.) Remove alternator from bracket (2 large bolts) set alternator aside http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00075.jpg
12.) Safely raise vehicle leaving enough room to work under. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00050.jpg If you do not have access to a lift, refer to owner’s manual for proper instructions on lifting your Corvette.
13.) Remove 3 nuts/bolts on each side connecting the stock H-Pipe to the manifolds http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00051.jpg
14.) Remove the 2 bolts holding the stock H pipe up to car http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00053.jpg
15.) Remove O2 sensors in the H pipe, leave harnesses connected http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00055.jpg
16.) Remove 2 bolts per side connecting stock H pipe to your catback http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00057.jpg
17.) Support the H pipe while you remove the last 2 bolts connected to the spring mounts which will allow the h pipe to be removed http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00058.jpg
18.) Remove the H pipe http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00061.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00064.jpg
19.) Disconnect O2 sensors at the ends of each stock exhaust manifold
20.) Relocate to top of vehicle in engine bay
21.) Remove 10mm bolts connecting the manifolds to heads http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00047.jpg
22.) Remove stock exhaust manifolds out the top http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00068.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00073.jpg
23.) Now is a great/easy time to remove sparkplugs if you choose install new ones at this time.
24.) Your stock exhaust system is now removed!
25.) Move back under the vehicle
26.) Remove the 2 bolts holding starter to the block on the passenger side along with the 2 nuts holding the electrical connections.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00070.jpg
27.) Remove the starter wiring *note what attaches where*
28.) Remove the starter
29.) Place the passenger side header up into place, do not bolt down.
30.) With the header up into the engine bay now, slide the starter over the collector. If the header wants to fall out, having someone hold it here works well.
31.) Re-attach wiring to the starter with the header up into the engine bay but still completely unbolted.
32.) Bolt the starter up to the engine with the header still loose.
33.) With the header still loose, install your front O2 sensors
34.) Now bolt the header down to the engine, still leaving somewhat loose for fitment.
35.) Headers install from the BOTTOM
36.) Install drivers side header from the BOTTOM.
37.) Before bolting the header to the engine, install your front O2 sensor.
38.) Bolt the drivers side header to the engine, leaving somewhat loose for fitment.
39.) Fit the X-pipe up into the header collectors. With help, have someone hold the X-pipe while you re-install the rear O2 sensors and complete the next few steps.
40.) Use Copper Spray Gasket on the ball and socket flanges of the header collectors and X-pipe, loosely bolt the X-pipe to the headers. Using high-temp thread locker on these bolts is recommended.
41.) Moving back, slip the mid-pipes over the X-pipe and hang using the factory spring mounts.
42.) Connect the rear mid-pipes to the catback, don't forget the gasket!
43.) Moving forward, tighten the headers down the engine using proper torque and torquing method.
44.) Tighten the X-pipe down to the header collectors ensuring EVEN tightening to both side to draw the X-pipe in straight to prevent leaks.
45.) Install clamps to the X-pipe to Mid-pipe connection and tighten.
46.) Tighten the Mid-pipes down to the catback
47.) Go over all connections making sure they are properly tightened with everything aligned.
48.) After a heat cycle of the system, it is recommended to re-check all connections to make sure they are tight as the heat with expand the system.
49.) Re-install all factory items such as dipstick, plug wires, coil packs, alternator, and anything else that may have been removed for the removal of the stock system or the install of the new system.
-Jon
1.) Disconnect negative cable from battery.
2.) Remove Oil Fill cap and Fuel Rail Covers http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00030.jpg
3.) Remove spark plug wires from coil packs, simply pull out. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00031.jpg
4.) Having another buddy to tackle one side of the engine bay while you tackle the other is very beneficial/time saving if you can trust their work! http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00037.jpg
5.) Disconnect connection on both coil packs. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00034.jpg
6.) Remove bolts connecting coil pack brackets to valve covers (10mm) http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00035.jpg
7.) Remove coil packs on brackets from the valve covers. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00039.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00043.jpg
8.) Remove oil dipstick tube on passenger side. (10mm bolt on manifold) http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00048.jpg
9.) Disconnect AIR fittings from manifolds on both sides. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00046.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00049.jpg
10.) Remove the accessory belt
11.) Remove alternator from bracket (2 large bolts) set alternator aside http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00075.jpg
12.) Safely raise vehicle leaving enough room to work under. http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00050.jpg If you do not have access to a lift, refer to owner’s manual for proper instructions on lifting your Corvette.
13.) Remove 3 nuts/bolts on each side connecting the stock H-Pipe to the manifolds http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00051.jpg
14.) Remove the 2 bolts holding the stock H pipe up to car http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00053.jpg
15.) Remove O2 sensors in the H pipe, leave harnesses connected http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00055.jpg
16.) Remove 2 bolts per side connecting stock H pipe to your catback http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00057.jpg
17.) Support the H pipe while you remove the last 2 bolts connected to the spring mounts which will allow the h pipe to be removed http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00058.jpg
18.) Remove the H pipe http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00061.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00064.jpg
19.) Disconnect O2 sensors at the ends of each stock exhaust manifold
20.) Relocate to top of vehicle in engine bay
21.) Remove 10mm bolts connecting the manifolds to heads http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00047.jpg
22.) Remove stock exhaust manifolds out the top http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00068.jpg http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00073.jpg
23.) Now is a great/easy time to remove sparkplugs if you choose install new ones at this time.
24.) Your stock exhaust system is now removed!
25.) Move back under the vehicle
26.) Remove the 2 bolts holding starter to the block on the passenger side along with the 2 nuts holding the electrical connections.
http://i291.photobucket.com/albums/l...a/DSC00070.jpg
27.) Remove the starter wiring *note what attaches where*
28.) Remove the starter
29.) Place the passenger side header up into place, do not bolt down.
30.) With the header up into the engine bay now, slide the starter over the collector. If the header wants to fall out, having someone hold it here works well.
31.) Re-attach wiring to the starter with the header up into the engine bay but still completely unbolted.
32.) Bolt the starter up to the engine with the header still loose.
33.) With the header still loose, install your front O2 sensors
34.) Now bolt the header down to the engine, still leaving somewhat loose for fitment.
35.) Headers install from the BOTTOM
36.) Install drivers side header from the BOTTOM.
37.) Before bolting the header to the engine, install your front O2 sensor.
38.) Bolt the drivers side header to the engine, leaving somewhat loose for fitment.
39.) Fit the X-pipe up into the header collectors. With help, have someone hold the X-pipe while you re-install the rear O2 sensors and complete the next few steps.
40.) Use Copper Spray Gasket on the ball and socket flanges of the header collectors and X-pipe, loosely bolt the X-pipe to the headers. Using high-temp thread locker on these bolts is recommended.
41.) Moving back, slip the mid-pipes over the X-pipe and hang using the factory spring mounts.
42.) Connect the rear mid-pipes to the catback, don't forget the gasket!
43.) Moving forward, tighten the headers down the engine using proper torque and torquing method.
44.) Tighten the X-pipe down to the header collectors ensuring EVEN tightening to both side to draw the X-pipe in straight to prevent leaks.
45.) Install clamps to the X-pipe to Mid-pipe connection and tighten.
46.) Tighten the Mid-pipes down to the catback
47.) Go over all connections making sure they are properly tightened with everything aligned.
48.) After a heat cycle of the system, it is recommended to re-check all connections to make sure they are tight as the heat with expand the system.
49.) Re-install all factory items such as dipstick, plug wires, coil packs, alternator, and anything else that may have been removed for the removal of the stock system or the install of the new system.
-Jon
Last edited by Superman09; 08-02-2011 at 09:29 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Rlb2002vette (02-14-2018)
#3
Racer
Thanks Jon for the write up its really appreciated for those of us who will do our own install, since you stopped at the starter, did you put the headers on from the top or bottom, and did you need to put the engine tune in immediately after the install.
Gator
Gator
#4
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Both headers in from the bottom! I ran it for a couple weeks without a tune. Tossed a code since I deleted my AIR but that was all, everything ran great with no issues!
#5
Instructor
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Buffalo NY
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I received my set on Friday, and I am very impressed with the quality of these headers. Monday I will be installing them on my Z06, and I will post pictures/videos.
Superman09 also provides GREAT customer service, I bugged the **** out him
EDIT: Added question below
Did you use the gaskets that came with the kit or new OEMs?
Superman09 also provides GREAT customer service, I bugged the **** out him
EDIT: Added question below
Did you use the gaskets that came with the kit or new OEMs?
Last edited by TheBigK; 05-29-2010 at 02:15 PM.
#6
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2006
Location: DuBois PA
Posts: 5,987
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I got ALOT of compliments on these Headers today at the Track, one instructor said mine was one of the best sounding cars he has heard PERIOD!
Everybody, please keep us updated as to how your installs go. I installed mine from the top, although my car was on a lift we had it lowered to simulate a jackstand install... These were tested fitted on several different cars to make sure that they are as neutral as possible, but feedback good or bad is appreciated!
Everybody, please keep us updated as to how your installs go. I installed mine from the top, although my car was on a lift we had it lowered to simulate a jackstand install... These were tested fitted on several different cars to make sure that they are as neutral as possible, but feedback good or bad is appreciated!
#7
Instructor
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Buffalo NY
Posts: 177
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I got ALOT of compliments on these Headers today at the Track, one instructor said mine was one of the best sounding cars he has heard PERIOD!
Everybody, please keep us updated as to how your installs go. I installed mine from the top, although my car was on a lift we had it lowered to simulate a jackstand install... These were tested fitted on several different cars to make sure that they are as neutral as possible, but feedback good or bad is appreciated!
Everybody, please keep us updated as to how your installs go. I installed mine from the top, although my car was on a lift we had it lowered to simulate a jackstand install... These were tested fitted on several different cars to make sure that they are as neutral as possible, but feedback good or bad is appreciated!
Did you use the gaskets from the kit or new OEMS?
#8
Le Mans Master
Member Since: May 2006
Location: DuBois PA
Posts: 5,987
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St. Jude Donor '11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I reused mine as they were only 2 or 3 years old, I had put on new OEM gaskets when I installed my old Headers...
Thanx for the upcoming updates!!!!!!!!!!!
Tim
Thanx for the upcoming updates!!!!!!!!!!!
Tim
#9
Burning Brakes
since im on the other end of the country i will get mine on tue or wed, won't get to installing them til I get my heads and cam kit in so i get to do one big install its gonna be like a totally different vette
#10
Jon's service really is top notch... These shipped so fast my head was spinning.
They won't be on until the 14th. I'll report back on the gains from the dyno tune I'm getting at the same time.
They won't be on until the 14th. I'll report back on the gains from the dyno tune I'm getting at the same time.
#11
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
Thanks guys, I appreciate it! Keep me posted as to how the install goes for you guys! Also any questions feel free to post up or shoot me a PM and I will help you out! Also if you have my number feel free to call at any time with install questions or anything. If you don't have my number and would like it, shoot me a PM!
#12
Burning Brakes
Put mine in Friday night. 5.5 hours by myself on jackstands. Would have been about 4 hours if I would have REMEMBERED TO NOTE WIRING LOCATION ON THE STARTER!!! That was a dumb move on my part, and I really wasted a lot of time there.
Both went in from the bottom with no jacking of the motor necessary. Very smooth install, I would rate it 3 out of 10 as far as difficulty.
Both went in from the bottom with no jacking of the motor necessary. Very smooth install, I would rate it 3 out of 10 as far as difficulty.
#13
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
sweet Jack! Glad to see you got them on the car so fast Wish I could have been there to give you a hand, we could have knocked it out in just a couple hours! But thanks for the post, glad to hear everything went smoothly and all fits great!
#14
Instructor
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Location: Buffalo NY
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Put mine in Friday night. 5.5 hours by myself on jackstands. Would have been about 4 hours if I would have REMEMBERED TO NOTE WIRING LOCATION ON THE STARTER!!! That was a dumb move on my part, and I really wasted a lot of time there.
Both went in from the bottom with no jacking of the motor necessary. Very smooth install, I would rate it 3 out of 10 as far as difficulty.
Both went in from the bottom with no jacking of the motor necessary. Very smooth install, I would rate it 3 out of 10 as far as difficulty.
#15
Racer
Do you really have to remove the altenator and accessary belt? I thought you only had to remove the starter? I will be doing the install on a lift.
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
#16
Former Vendor
Thread Starter
-Jon
#17
Instructor
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Location: Buffalo NY
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Got the headers in from the bottom on both sides, using supplied gaskets. For those with a Quicktime bell housing the headers will touch the bell housing. The passenger side O2 has a few mm of space around it while the driver side O2 has more then enough room. The supplied clamps for the back of the xpipe will be replaced due to them hanging down, could not fit them the other way. Will be looking for smaller overall size (but still 3" diameter) clamps. Had to use some s.s. nuts/locking washers/bolt for the axle back connection.
Took some time to clean up some wires, zip tied, placed heat material on etc. Will be finishing install on Wednesday night...
Headers look nice!
Took some time to clean up some wires, zip tied, placed heat material on etc. Will be finishing install on Wednesday night...
Headers look nice!
#20
Instructor
Member Since: Jul 2004
Location: Buffalo NY
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The hardest part was taking the stock system off That dam back bolt was such a PITA!!! The drivers side went in like cake, and the passenger side was not cake but def not hard. Getting the starter back in place and wired up (hopefully correctly) was tricky.