[Z06] No oil pressure after first start up - heads/cam
03-16-2016, 04:16 PM
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
No oil pressure after first start up - heads/cam
Well went to start it up...started right up but no oil pressure. Shut it down right away. The needle oil psi gauge stays at zero and the digital display reads "oil pressure XXX". I pulled the valve covers and it looks like fresh oil has made its way up there. Any ideas? I lowered the oil pan some so the pump would come out easily, had no issues taking it out or reinstalling it.
03-16-2016, 04:22 PM
#2
Team Owner
If it loos like oil is circulating...sending unit maybe?
03-16-2016, 04:30 PM
#3
Burning Brakes
When the sending units fail, they generally fail by pinning/maxing out the gauge.
You might have forgotten to connect it?
How did it sound otherwise? Noisy, more than expected?
I would open the valve covers, to inspect that all pushrods are engaging the rockers, check plugs for oil, etc...
You might have forgotten to connect it?
How did it sound otherwise? Noisy, more than expected?
I would open the valve covers, to inspect that all pushrods are engaging the rockers, check plugs for oil, etc...
03-16-2016, 04:52 PM
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
When the sending units fail, they generally fail by pinning/maxing out the gauge.
You might have forgotten to connect it?
How did it sound otherwise? Noisy, more than expected?
I would open the valve covers, to inspect that all pushrods are engaging the rockers, check plugs for oil, etc...
You might have forgotten to connect it?
How did it sound otherwise? Noisy, more than expected?
I would open the valve covers, to inspect that all pushrods are engaging the rockers, check plugs for oil, etc...
Its louder but I did heads, k501 cam, intake, exhaust, headers, msd, and nw 102 so it's not really comparable to before.
Seems like oil made it up to the valve covers but I did soak everything in oil before being installed. Had a fresh oil change and there was a tiny but oh dirty oil on the top of one of he valves so I assume it got pushed up but not sure.
Last edited by SuperchargedTundra; 03-16-2016 at 04:53 PM.
03-16-2016, 05:19 PM
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
Maybe 10 seconds. I just changed the oil today so it was filled back up as soon as it emptied
The oil that was in the oil cooler itself was empty for a while while it was off the car
The oil that was in the oil cooler itself was empty for a while while it was off the car
Last edited by SuperchargedTundra; 03-16-2016 at 05:20 PM.
03-16-2016, 05:24 PM
#11
Melting Slicks
Going to take a little more then 10 seconds to get oil in all those gallies, and especially if the cooler was off the car, either pre lube it, which I have no idea how to do on a LS engine or start it and give it a few more seconds. Common after a cam change, all the galleys are empty.
03-16-2016, 06:12 PM
#14
Instructor
Thread Starter
Would you assume if I have a new cam, lifters, push rods, rockers, springs ect and old and new oil made it to the top of the rockers the pump is functioning?
03-16-2016, 06:18 PM
#15
Melting Slicks
If you got a mixture of old and new oil the pump is working. If you didn't have oil pressure you would have a lot of valve train noise. Unplug the battery and re boot the computer
03-16-2016, 07:02 PM
#16
Team Owner
Pull injector fuses and crank until it has oil pressure.
03-16-2016, 07:18 PM
#17
If you go this route pull the plugs too.
If you prelube it, still pull the plugs and valve covers. While the prelube is pressurized with a wrench roll the motor over, keep tabs on your push rods and rockers, when you see oil on all of them, then and only then would I fire it up. I don't think I would try the starter, by hand would be the best, my $.02. Since you had other changes to the oil system, it may take time to fill the filter and cooler as well.
I'm doing my heads right now and new lifters are going in, I'll prelube the snot out of it before I fire it up.
If you prelube it, still pull the plugs and valve covers. While the prelube is pressurized with a wrench roll the motor over, keep tabs on your push rods and rockers, when you see oil on all of them, then and only then would I fire it up. I don't think I would try the starter, by hand would be the best, my $.02. Since you had other changes to the oil system, it may take time to fill the filter and cooler as well.
I'm doing my heads right now and new lifters are going in, I'll prelube the snot out of it before I fire it up.
03-16-2016, 07:26 PM
#18
Instructor
Thread Starter
I'm going to give this a try...seems like a safer idea then letting it run. Should I bother to prelube the engine before doing this? There is old and new oil getting under the valve covers so I think oil is pumping up just not reaching a pressure yet...hopefully
03-16-2016, 07:29 PM
#19
Instructor
Thread Starter
If you go this route pull the plugs too.
If you prelube it, still pull the plugs and valve covers. While the prelube is pressurized with a wrench roll the motor over, keep tabs on your push rods and rockers, when you see oil on all of them, then and only then would I fire it up. I don't think I would try the starter, by hand would be the best, my $.02. Since you had other changes to the oil system, it may take time to fill the filter and cooler as well.
I'm doing my heads right now and new lifters are going in, I'll prelube the snot out of it before I fire it up.
If you prelube it, still pull the plugs and valve covers. While the prelube is pressurized with a wrench roll the motor over, keep tabs on your push rods and rockers, when you see oil on all of them, then and only then would I fire it up. I don't think I would try the starter, by hand would be the best, my $.02. Since you had other changes to the oil system, it may take time to fill the filter and cooler as well.
I'm doing my heads right now and new lifters are going in, I'll prelube the snot out of it before I fire it up.
03-16-2016, 07:56 PM
#20
Melting Slicks
ive got the proper adapters to pre-lube mine through the port under the drivers side front of the motor.
I have researched the pre-lubing so much and everybody says on a dry sump you MUST pre-lube as the pump may or may not pull oil at all. They say on the wet sump cars the pump will usually pull oil from the pickup in the pan.
I am planning to pre-lube as well as crank without plugs in for a few 10 second cycles before starting.
I have researched the pre-lubing so much and everybody says on a dry sump you MUST pre-lube as the pump may or may not pull oil at all. They say on the wet sump cars the pump will usually pull oil from the pickup in the pan.
I am planning to pre-lube as well as crank without plugs in for a few 10 second cycles before starting.