C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Front Brake Line Won't Budge - Hidden Bolt?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-05-2016, 01:55 PM
  #1  
tjmaniez
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
tjmaniez's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2016
Location: KC, MO
Posts: 138
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
Default Front Brake Line Won't Budge - Hidden Bolt?

I am new to posting here but have been reading up on this site since buying my 76 about a year ago (lots of good advice). I am in the middle of a complete brake system overhaul. I bought the remanufactured calipers (stainless steel o-ring) from Ecklers and all new brake lines. Everything has gone fine except the front passenger steel brake line. I bought the pre-bent steel line, but cannot get the old one out. I got the part of the line out that comes from the Brake Proportioning Valve and took the bolts off the cross-member. Where I am struggling is where the line goes back up over the frame on the passenger side and out to where it attaches to the hose. I have tugged and pulled (and cussed) with no success. In reviewing the brake diagram it appears that I may be missing a bolt...but I don't see it on the car. Below is the diagram and the bolt in question. Does anyone have any advice or knowledge as to where this exactly is? Does it help if the wheels are off the ground (i.e. does it open some space up to be able to remove and put the new one in)? It just seems like such a tight fit, but I have read where others have done it with the body still on the frame.


Old 04-05-2016, 02:25 PM
  #2  
Alan 71
Team Owner
 
Alan 71's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes on 2,515 Posts

Default

Hi t,
WELCOME!
I'm glad you're here!
The brake line clip you circled is up under the a-arm cross shaft. That may be making it difficult for you to locate.
You can see it in this picture taken from the driver's side of the engine compartment.
Regards,
Alan

The following users liked this post:
cwwhk (04-07-2016)
Old 04-05-2016, 07:45 PM
  #3  
DonnieP73
Burning Brakes
 
DonnieP73's Avatar
 
Member Since: Mar 2013
Location: West Monroe Louisiana
Posts: 997
Received 518 Likes on 224 Posts
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified

Default

Alan's photo is great, this is on mine before engine reinstall.
You can make out the bolt below the shock tower on the cross
member.




Donnie
Old 04-11-2016, 04:50 PM
  #4  
tjmaniez
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
tjmaniez's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2016
Location: KC, MO
Posts: 138
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Thanks for the pictures, they certainly helped as I was able to find and remove the bolt. I am still having trouble just getting the line out due to the tight fit. Donnie I think your pic might help on that front as I can see how it weaves through there. Anyone else have any secret tips they had to removing it other than pulling the motor?
Old 04-11-2016, 06:10 PM
  #5  
Alan 71
Team Owner
 
Alan 71's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes on 2,515 Posts

Default

Hi tj,
Take a close look at Donnie's picture and the one I posted. Specifically at the clip you asked about.
Notice Donny's is turned 'down' from the bolt, while mine is turned 'up'.
This has to have an effect on how the line fits and also how it connects to the fitting for the transition to the rubber brake line.
So, check to see which position works best for your line.
Regards,
Alan
Old 04-18-2016, 09:27 AM
  #6  
tjmaniez
Instructor
Thread Starter
 
tjmaniez's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2016
Location: KC, MO
Posts: 138
Received 10 Likes on 7 Posts
Default

Update: This weekend I was able to get the car up on a lift. It took awhile, but I was able to yank the old line out and fish the new one in. With all new calipers and new shockers, it feels like a totally different car.
Old 04-18-2016, 09:31 AM
  #7  
Alan 71
Team Owner
 
Alan 71's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes on 2,515 Posts

Default

Hi t,
Good !!!
Being able to sense a difference helps make the work worth it!
Regards,
Alan
Old 07-22-2016, 11:00 PM
  #8  
128racecar
Racer
 
128racecar's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2013
Location: Indianapolis IN
Posts: 420
Received 139 Likes on 51 Posts
Default

Okay, I know this is an old thread, but I am looking at the same task. How tough is it to replace this line with the front end up on jack stands? How much stuff do I need to pull to snake this line in? Any tips would be appreciated.

Marc in Indy
72 Coupe, new in the garage
Old 07-23-2016, 07:11 AM
  #9  
Alan 71
Team Owner
 
Alan 71's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes on 2,515 Posts

Default

Hi 128,
Replacing the line isn't too bad a job.
What may be difficult will be getting the flare connections loose at each end.
Having the car on jack stands gives good access but be careful you don't jerk the car off the stands.
Good Luck.
Regards,
Alan

The location of 4 of the 5 brake line clips.


Typical access that jack stands give you.
The following users liked this post:
128racecar (07-23-2016)
Old 07-23-2016, 05:08 PM
  #10  
vmsns007
Instructor
 
vmsns007's Avatar
 
Member Since: Apr 2016
Location: Fishers Indiana
Posts: 207
Received 31 Likes on 11 Posts
Default

Marc - let me know if you could use a second set of hands. Happy to help out and also be able to use it as a dry run for myself later.

Originally Posted by 128racecar
Okay, I know this is an old thread, but I am looking at the same task. How tough is it to replace this line with the front end up on jack stands? How much stuff do I need to pull to snake this line in? Any tips would be appreciated.

Marc in Indy
72 Coupe, new in the garage
Old 07-23-2016, 10:51 PM
  #11  
128racecar
Racer
 
128racecar's Avatar
 
Member Since: Jun 2013
Location: Indianapolis IN
Posts: 420
Received 139 Likes on 51 Posts
Default

Alan- thanks for the advice. A miracle occurred, and after two weeks of PB Blaster and heating with a torch, the metal fittings at the rubber brake line ends broke free. A stroke of luck, as the fittings were equally stuck at the the distribution block as well, so changing out both front lines would have been a bear anyway. Once I get my calipers back from Lonestar, I can button things back up and get it on it;s (my) maiden voyage.

A quick plug for this handy little vise grip tool designed for nuts- got the job done when my trusty flare wrench couldn't get a grip.

http://www.lowes.com/pd/IRWIN-Vise-G...liers/50431804

Marc in Indy
72 Coupe 350 auto 4th owner 69K miles survivor
57 283/245 HP 4 spd with dealer installed 7300 FI, in the family since early 60s

Last edited by 128racecar; 07-23-2016 at 11:16 PM.
Old 07-24-2016, 08:00 AM
  #12  
Alan 71
Team Owner
 
Alan 71's Avatar
 
Member Since: Sep 2006
Location: Westminster Maryland
Posts: 30,173
Likes: 0
Received 2,878 Likes on 2,515 Posts

Default

Hi 128,
That tool looks like a good option IF there's room to get it in place!!!
Regards,
Alan

Get notified of new replies

To Front Brake Line Won't Budge - Hidden Bolt?




Quick Reply: Front Brake Line Won't Budge - Hidden Bolt?



All times are GMT -4. The time now is 07:56 PM.