gccch

PLEASE HELP! I had to bring up this older thread again as I am still failing to get this right. I seem to be conversing with myself for some reason..

old part=========

While I wait for parts to fix my fuel leaks I need some help with the adjustment of my steering column. I painted it and re-installed but the collar the wheel mounts to is too close to the column. The manual shows an adjustment screw for the gap but I failed to check if it was even present when I had it out. I don't know what tool is supposed to fit and can't seem to find anything to engage. Could it be missing? Any tips that don't involve taking the column out again?

DUB

Remember to ALWAYS POST the YEAR of what you are working on...because your avatar is NOT the car that you are dealing with this steering column for...CORRECT?

I guess it is a standard column and NOT a tilt column....correct??? SO I am not going to type out what to do until I know what we are dealing with.

POST a photo of the area of your concern.

DUB

gccch

Sorry, DUB. I no longer own that 70 but it was my first..

It's my 64 with standard column. The screw is supposed to point toward the driver and is accessed by a hole on the tapered collar that houses the blinker switch and horn switch. The access hole is on the passenger side of the column and is shown in the repair manual with an adjustment screw. The gap between the wheel collar and the tapered collar is supposed to be .07 to .12 inch adjusted by this screw. I scoped the hole and it seems to go nowhere and I can see no threads. I must be missing something.

Thanks,

plaidside

I just did my column in my 64 last year and I had the same thoughts when I looked in the shop manual. GM changed the design to four tabs on the tube that go into a retainer and that holds the column bowl.
Joe

http://www.zip-corvette.com/63-67-c2...-retainer.html

http:// http://www.zip-corvette.com/...haft-tube.html

buns

I believe what you are referring to is the "wedge" that goes inside the bell. Apparently, it was only used in 1963, although Doc Rebuilds old catalogs said it was used from '63 to '66. I bought one thinking mine was missing from my '66. Still can't figure out how it is attached.

I'm guessing you have the '63 service manual and the '64 supplement so the supplement probably doesn't show that the wedge was discontinued.

Doc Rebuilds online catalog doesn't show the wedge so I'm guessing it is no longer available.

Picture below of a 2008 capture of Doc Rebuilds catalog.





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Frankie the Fink

And that drawing includes and upper bearing 'spring' which is actually a cylindrical bushing in '63. I see that mistake a lot in exploded midyear steering column diagrams... At least this one has the 'disclaimer' in fine print at the bottom..

gccch

Thank you for reminding me to check my 64 supplement. Maybe it is not mentioned in there at all but I usually forget to check. Nice diagram.. it would be nice to have one that is dead on correct for 64-66. So far I don't have any interference. Hopefully it will stay that way.

Tooth Doctor

If you end up needing a little more gap, you can loosen the column clamp on the outside of the firewall and the column clamp under the dash and move the column in.

DUB

the clamp and spring on the shaft on the firewall side of the column is how I set the gap between the hob that the steering wheel attaches and the housing that hold the turn signal switch,etc.

In the illustration above....SPRING 'K' and SPRING 'JJ' work against one another...and this is how you set the gap.

AND YES. making sure the main mast jacket tube is secure when setting the gap at the hub is also helpful.

DUB

buns

For future reference:



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gccch

This is great stuff, guys. Thank you!

71scgc

I like the Dr. Rebuild catalog diagrams for a quick reference. I wouldn't rely on them for something definitive. The item descriptions will indicate which year that item is intended for, so you need the whole page for that.

I like them because they're quick and easy to find, and sometimes that's all you need. I've always thought their catalog kinda belongs in your reference library as well as your catalog library.

Carter

gccch

There does not appear to be an upper spring in the 66 diagram. Is this correct also for a 64?

buns

According to the Doc Rebuild catalog, that spring is '67 and '68 only. No spring for you.





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gccch

OK, I need some more help on this. I had the steering column together and working enough to get the car aligned and driveable (but not legal without directionals and horn). Now I am trying to rework it to get it right. So far my directional switch is working and my horn will blow. So close.

But, I am still struggling with the gap between the steering wheel hub and the mast jacket. I will be moving the mast jacket toward the steering gear box. Got that. What does the steering wheel stop against? It looks like the bearing is sandwiched between the plastic housing of the directional switch and the plastic directional cam release. Or is the steering wheel supposed to hit a hard stop on the shaft?

Also, is there anything special about the screws holding the horn button to the steering hub? They look like ordinary machine screws. Is the length critical?

Thanks all for the advice. Once I get past this all I need is wipers to get my inspection sticker allowing me to hit the roads.

gccch

OK, I have the steering column mast jacket mounted further in toward the firewall. Steering wheel seems to be fine without interference now. BUT....

I'm wondering if I have the right parts for a 64. Here are some pics of my horn contacts. The horn works if I jump it, but this contact pin can only be installed from the top side of the steering hub, where the AIM and Service Manual show it being installed form the underside. Also, the contact pin does not make the connection inside the pin assembly until it is depressed well past the surface of the directional cam. I'm trying to show this in the second pic. Can anyone tell me if I have a 64 steering hub here?

gccch

I am still struggling. First, I have answered the question about the horn contact pin. It has continuity even when extended.

But my trouble with getting the column tight (so there is no lateral play) and a proper gap between the hub and the column is really challenging me.

I verified the hub and horn switch are correct and good. It all seems to go together fine but it seems the hub goes too deep into the top housing. Maybe the bearing is too sloppy?

I thought I had it today after getting my wipers installed and working. Went for a short drive to see if I could get an inspection sticker and ended up driving home with my horn blowing on and off due to all the play in the column. Very humiliating.

My parts match the post above by buns. I seem to have everything stacking up in the right order.

One big question: what is the proper orientation of the directional release cam? It is mounted to the underside of the hub. Does the elongated plastic sit to the left or right? I'm thinking to the right based on the position of the directional switch mechanism slightly angled counterclockwise. But I can find no guidance in my AIM or repair manual 1964 supplement.

Does anyone know of a step by step article with pictures?

buns

I'm pretty sure the cancelling cam can only go on one way. Link below may be of some help. From DZVette (Dave Zuberer).




http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...Components.pdf



http://lbfun.com/Corvette/Tech/vettetech.html

gccch

Thanks, buns. This is very helpful. I have all of these parts, but the canceling cam in the picture has a green piece on the end of it which Mine does not. Mine is simply tapered at the end (like the second picture). Not sure what to make of that.

When I was suggesting the cam can go in backwards, I am referring to it's rotatonal position. So it can be set up on the left or right as you are driving straight down the road. If I assume he has his lined up straight I can get the orientation from the final page.

Good document!
Greg

buns

I have no idea what that green piece on the cancelling cam in the picture is, but it's not part of the assembly. I'm guessing that is just something Dave used to hold the all the pieces together for the photo shoot.