Fuel Vapor Canister Location
#1
Instructor
Thread Starter
Fuel Vapor Canister Location
My '96 LT4 is throwing "coffee grounds" up to the solenoid from the vapor canister & the new canister is on the way. The Haynes manual says the canister location is in the right rear wheel well behind a removable splash shield.
I've removed the wheel & for the life of me cannot see any kind of a splash shield or any area resembling where the canister would be. Pre-'92 apparently located in engine compartment, but now relocated
Any help on the location is appreciated.
I've removed the wheel & for the life of me cannot see any kind of a splash shield or any area resembling where the canister would be. Pre-'92 apparently located in engine compartment, but now relocated
Any help on the location is appreciated.
#2
From the FSM - remove R/R wheel/tire then splash shield #2, hoses #1 then canister #4 from bracket #3
Last edited by WVZR-1; 07-22-2016 at 05:00 AM.
#3
Burning Brakes
I had a problem on my 93. The line from it to the engine was plugged. I used a piece of wire with a hook on it and fed it down the hose turning it as I cleaned it along with shop vac to suck out the particles. It was time consuming but seemed easier than replacing the line. It is a hard plastic line and easily kinked if not careful. Put in new canister and hoses to fuel tank.
#4
Instructor
Thread Starter
From the FSM - remove R/R wheel/tire then splash shield #2, hoses #1 then canister #4 from bracket #3
Attachment 48002272
Attachment 48002272
Rob
#5
Instructor
Thread Starter
I had a problem on my 93. The line from it to the engine was plugged. I used a piece of wire with a hook on it and fed it down the hose turning it as I cleaned it along with shop vac to suck out the particles. It was time consuming but seemed easier than replacing the line. It is a hard plastic line and easily kinked if not careful. Put in new canister and hoses to fuel tank.
Replaced the canister & now will see how it goes. I used an air compressor to clear the line from the purge solenoid back to the canister (after disconnected) - fast & easy. Also used it on the purge solenoid & adjacent control valve to blow out.
#6
Instructor
Thread Starter
From the FSM - remove R/R wheel/tire then splash shield #2, hoses #1 then canister #4 from bracket #3
Attachment 48002272
Attachment 48002272
So I have a related question if you don't mind. The '96 canister was mounted with the line connections at the top & that is how I replaced it. My ZR-1's canister is mounted with the connections at the bottom, basically inverted from the '96. Since it only has 23,000mi, I have no reason to believe this isn't the original. My plan is to mount the replacement in the same manner.
Does this even matter? Is gravity a factor? Thx
#7
So I have a related question if you don't mind. The '96 canister was mounted with the line connections at the top & that is how I replaced it. My ZR-1's canister is mounted with the connections at the bottom, basically inverted from the '96. Since it only has 23,000mi, I have no reason to believe this isn't the original. My plan is to mount the replacement in the same manner.
Does this even matter? Is gravity a factor? Thx
Does this even matter? Is gravity a factor? Thx
Last edited by WVZR-1; 07-28-2016 at 05:10 AM.
#8
Instructor
Thread Starter
I believe I've always seen it mentioned in the FSM to purge lines with Nitrogen gas. I always assumed that was because it's "dry". Important?
The canister changed in '96 likely because of OBD2 diagnostics - your ZR-1 placement I believe is correct but it might be interesting to ask regarding both!! My '90 is still up front so I can't help. On the '96 - is there any signs of collision related damage to the rear where it maybe created an issue for replacement of the canister and MAYBE it was mounted upside down? I ain't ever looked or compared!
The canister changed in '96 likely because of OBD2 diagnostics - your ZR-1 placement I believe is correct but it might be interesting to ask regarding both!! My '90 is still up front so I can't help. On the '96 - is there any signs of collision related damage to the rear where it maybe created an issue for replacement of the canister and MAYBE it was mounted upside down? I ain't ever looked or compared!
Well, nitrogen or not, it's done without, so we''ll see what happens. Interesting thought that maybe the '96 s/b like the ZR-1 instead of vice versa. There is no sign of collision anywhere on on '96, it truly is pristine, top to bottom, front to rear. But the canisters are different for sure, possibly due to the OBD1/2 change. I'll see if I can find out more, but for now, I'll just do the ZR-1 like it is.
#9
I had the same problem of black carbon clogging up the throttle body from the charcoal canister. I plugged and disconnected the line at the throttle body and ended up cutting the charcoal canister to dump out the charcoal which would allow tank fumes to vent out that opening. But later I figured I could have probably gotten a metal fuel filter that had ports sized that would fit in the rubber line going from the charcoal canister to the solenoid. Didn't really care too much about it to spend a ton of money on replacing the charcoal canister with a new one.
#10
Instructor
Thread Starter
I had the same problem of black carbon clogging up the throttle body from the charcoal canister. I plugged and disconnected the line at the throttle body and ended up cutting the charcoal canister to dump out the charcoal which would allow tank fumes to vent out that opening. But later I figured I could have probably gotten a metal fuel filter that had ports sized that would fit in the rubber line going from the charcoal canister to the solenoid. Didn't really care too much about it to spend a ton of money on replacing the charcoal canister with a new one.
I guess there are all kinds of variations on how to circumvent the factory system. I'm in Cali & those emissions tests are tough, so not sure if a "mod" will trip the diagnostics, so I'm gonna try w/the new canister. So far, so good - have taken out on 2 runs & all OK...for now.
#11
Intermediate
I guess there are all kinds of variations on how to circumvent the factory system. I'm in Cali & those emissions tests are tough, so not sure if a "mod" will trip the diagnostics, so I'm gonna try w/the new canister. So far, so good - have taken out on 2 runs & all OK...for now.
I have a 96 currently and need to replace my charcoal/vapor canister... are they the same things?
thanks!
#12
Racer
Same things...there is charcoal inside the canister that processes fuel vapors. :-)
#13
Intermediate
okay perfect. My code was also for 1441, so I bought a new solenoid $15~ and a new canister (roughly $100) and we will see where it takes me now. By chance, if I broke the old crusty rubber lines feeding the solenoid, where do I find new ones?
#14
Racer
Can just use hose that is rated for fuel. Local parts place should be able to sell it to you by the foot. Get some extra to have around.
#15
Intermediate
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Joetrackside (04-14-2021)
#16
yes please help I’m under my 96 Grand Sport and can’t figure out how to get the vapor canister to release from it’s strap. How did you guys get it loose from the strap?
#17
A few years ago on my 89, I took the throttle body off and found it was packed with what looked like coffee grounds. I ended up figuring out the fuel canister had went bad. I ended up unplugging the line to the throttle body. I also got a piece of round wood to plug the fuel canister line at the throttle body. And I took the fuel canister out, cut it so I could dump out all of the coffee grounds and installed it. And so the fuel fumes I guess leaks out of the fuel canister. I didn't put a fuel filter on as I figured the fuel canister still being there would keep any large things from getting to the line in case of vacuum. Though what size fuel filter fits on that line?
#18
Intermediate