Big block intake install
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Big block intake install
I'm getting ready to install the intake onto my LS5 tomorrow. Is there any special that I should do? It's going stock, but likely will not use that rubber gasket for the China wall. I bought the permatex gray gasket maker in place of the rubber.
Should I do anything special for the bolts that go into the water jackets or in the lifter valley area? Should I use any thread locker (blue loctite) or anti seize?
Should I use anti seize on exhaust manifold bolts?
If it helps I have the copper anti seize.
Should I do anything special for the bolts that go into the water jackets or in the lifter valley area? Should I use any thread locker (blue loctite) or anti seize?
Should I use anti seize on exhaust manifold bolts?
If it helps I have the copper anti seize.
#3
Le Mans Master
Member Since: Oct 2002
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I would use pipe dope on all the bolt threads. U can buy it at the hardware store for a buck a tube or you can spend $5 or more for name brand Teflon sealer.
Sealing the intake ensures all the crankcase blow-by goes through the PCVvalve and of course seals any bolts that may enter a water jacket (unlikely).
Sealing the intake ensures all the crankcase blow-by goes through the PCVvalve and of course seals any bolts that may enter a water jacket (unlikely).
#4
Race Director
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When I got this 454 it had a torker on it that did kill the low end and leaked vacuum
the fellow I swapped engines with gave me a performer and I installed it but I did what I have done for 30 years without issue but this is just me others might just call this hack job,
I do not use any end gaskets at all, I run a big bead of silicone sealer the good one on both ends and allow it to skin up a little, the side gaskets in place I carefully set down the intake then use that silicone on the bolts too,
Silicone oozes out and I allow it to dry then trim it if needed with exato blade,
I do use anti seize on the header bolts.
the fellow I swapped engines with gave me a performer and I installed it but I did what I have done for 30 years without issue but this is just me others might just call this hack job,
I do not use any end gaskets at all, I run a big bead of silicone sealer the good one on both ends and allow it to skin up a little, the side gaskets in place I carefully set down the intake then use that silicone on the bolts too,
Silicone oozes out and I allow it to dry then trim it if needed with exato blade,
I do use anti seize on the header bolts.
#5
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You're on the right track. The grey sealer (The Right Stuff or equivalent) works great...but so will the black. Make sure what you have "likes" oil...some don't.
I use Permatex Aviation Sealer (parts stores have it) around the intake ports and water ports. If I was going to put something on the threads, I'd use it too...but I usually don't.
JIM
I use Permatex Aviation Sealer (parts stores have it) around the intake ports and water ports. If I was going to put something on the threads, I'd use it too...but I usually don't.
JIM
#6
Melting Slicks
I'd be really gentle on tightening the upper bolts. I've seen them break, or at least crack, the manifold casting. No problem with the ones the go near the intake ports.
#7
Team Owner
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St. Jude Donor '05
unless the bolts go into water jackets no sealer needed
Have always just run a bead front and rear, this time used cork and permatex brown gasket maker, been yrs not an ounce of leakage looks cleaner too. Either way doesnt matter
Have always just run a bead front and rear, this time used cork and permatex brown gasket maker, been yrs not an ounce of leakage looks cleaner too. Either way doesnt matter