66jack

I need new window springs in my 66....

How hard is it to wind these up and get the correct tension?

DUB

Power window regulator??? If it is... it is not a big deal because the spring only rotates about 3/4's of a full turn. The spring obviously is under tension to aid in raising the door glass...so it would be wise if that you get it secured in a vise so when to remove the motor AFTER you have placed a bolt in the linkage to hold it ( there will be a hole in the linkage arm and regulator housing that will line up for this)...so when you apply manual force to get your bolt out...you slowly release the tension and you will see the spring can ONLY go in one way.

DUB

66jack

Should have mentioned they are NOT power window's...


Is it the same process for manual?

DUB

I am having a TOTAL BRAIN FART because when the power window motor is removed the regulator can spin....but I for the life of me can not remember IF you can get the regulator to spin so the teeth of the gear can allow the regulator to rotate.

A photo who help clear this 'fart' up.

DUB

66jack

Dont have photos as the 'scissors/regulators' still in door...

buns

I'm thinking you would need a special tool to change the spring. I also can't say as I've seen new ones for sale. My regulators are out of the car if you need more pics.




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DUB

Thanks for the photo!!!

If this were in my shop. And knowing how much tension is on that spring. due to doing so many power window regulators which are basically the same principle.

I would crank the regulator so I could put a bolt in the large hole to the LEFT of the splined shaft on the realtor that you put your window crank handle on.

Then I would drill out the rivets that hold the splined crank handle shaft cover and remove it...which would free up the regulator main gear when it is removed. Then carefully remove the bolt I installed while at the same time keeping tension on the long arm of the regulator that has "LH' written on it in the photo. SLOWLY allow the long arm to swing and release the tension on the spring....put on a new spring...and then reverse the procedure.

I would then ...more than likely before I put the new spring back on.... figure out what type of fastener I would use to replace the tubular rivets I drilled out. I do know I would not use a regular blind pop rivet. I would either go back in with the correct tubular rivets due to have the rivet set to set them correctly...or stainless steel machine bolts and nuts.

DUB

buns

I take that back. Zip has them. #DR-581.

66jack

Why must you take this part off?

After you put the 'bolt' in place to hold tension, why can't you remove spring with 'tool'?

DUB

Keep in mind I do so many power window regulators....And knowing how STOUT that spring is under tension....I choose not to try to use a 'tool'. I have not seen a tool for this ...and there may be one out there that saves the 'drama' that I wrote.

I am sure there may be way around it...I was just giving the safe way so the spring does not fly out and do damage. This spring is NO JOKE...it is under a lot of tension.

DUB

buns

Jack, here is a better picture of the spring, and a picture of a new spring. Getting the old one off would not be a problem, but it appears that the new spring would need one full revolution to wind it up. That would be difficult.

On the other hand, new springs are $26.00, but you can get a complete regulator for $100.00.




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66jack

Thanks 'dub', 'buns'...for the pics and the process on installing the springs..

DUB

I do not think that is ONE full revolution...But I may be wrong...but I think I am correct...it is less that one full revolution.

More than likely it is about half +/- a revolution by how the new spring looks in relation to the spring that is still on the regulator.

DUB