NewbVetteGuy

I'm going to include 1.6 ratio roller rockers in my top-end rebuild slotted for fall or Winter 2017, BUT I figured that I might as well put them on my stock L82 in the meantime and see what they'll do-just for fun.


My forum name says "newb" for a reason as I don't really know what I'm doing so please don't assume any existing knowledge in your replies.


Are there any possible "Gotchas" in doing this that I should be aware of?

I hear great things about Harland Sharp RRs as far as value is concerned so I'm planning on going in this direction. I'm not totally sure whether to go with 1.6 ratio or 1.65 ratio, though.

I also have no idea whether I need to somehow check whether my heads' springs can deal with the added lift or not- is this an issue?

I don't know how to calculate whether the RRs will end up hitting the valve covers either; I heard there's some sort of "spacer" that I can buy- can anyone direct me there?


It's also my understanding that each set of heads will only deal with so much valve lift before the valves hit the piston... -How the heck do I figure out if that's an issue?



Thanks in advance!
Adam

NewbVetteGuy

Oh yea, I guess getting the right "rocker geometry" is probably something that should be talked about- if I'm using the stock L82 heads then the stock L82 pushrods should be a perfect fit and not something that I need to worry about until switching heads, right?


I also remember seeing an article where some RRs are too wide to fit side-by-side with each other and get sort of pushed to the side at a funny angle.... -Anyone know if this is actually an issue or what RR's will and wont' work with the stock L82 heads?


Adam

NewbVetteGuy

This is what I'm looking at; are these right for a SBC L82? (I think so.)


https://www.summitracing.com/parts/csp-s1002/overview/


Adam

NewbVetteGuy

Update: Summit said that pretty much all RRs are going to smack the stock valve covers and to use these spacers: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...make/chevrolet (Which seem like SUCH A RIP-OFF for little aluminum rectangles and $109.)

Adam

NewbVetteGuy

The Harland Sharp RRs are aluminum; I'm looking for parts that are going to be long-lasting; should I avoid aluminum? (I've heard mixed things...)


Adam

BKbroiler

It is true that full roller rockers will not fit under your stock valve covers. Comp's 1.6 roller tip rockers will fit, but they are not full rollers.

NewbVetteGuy

I appologize in advance for the rapid-fire posts, but clearly I need the help..

I found a used SBC GEN1 valve cover spacer used on CL but it's 1.5". The one I was directed to by Summit was only 1.15" tall; given the tight hood clearances on these C3s; is raising the valve covers by 1.5" likely to create either hood clearance issues or issues hitting the stock air cleaner snorkel?

Does using a spacer necessitate buying 2 sets of valve cover gaskets? (I assume so.)



Adam

gerry72

I have HS full roller rockers and they fit fine under both my steel and LT-1 covers. They've been there for a good 20 years now.

gkull

I would not waste my time to get such a minor lift gain. Then you have older weak springs that have decreased pressure. Valve float is very destructive. I have a spring pressure tester and I check my springs periodically. I buy new springs quite often

Why not just buy tall valve covers and get it over with. Also if you are going with new heads and a roller cam forget wimpy 3/8th studs. They bend and flex.

7/16th is substantially stronger stud. Why not buy quality rocker arms for just a dollar more each?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...5-16/overview/

resdoggie

You don't need 1.6 rocker arms. Just buy the cam with the lift you want.

Ibanez540r

Your stock heads have a 3/8" pressed stud. After market heads are threaded and you can use either a 3/8" or 7/16" stud. With 1.6 rockers and any decent lift the much stronger 7/16 is highly recommended. If you bought rockers now for your stock heads, they will not fit later if you smartly go to a 7/16 stud.

And I 100% agree with the Comp Ultra Pro Magnums. If you go check out ebay, there a re a few vendors that are selling them under the $300 mark, the same as the HS price you posted from summit.

caryb78

I installed 1.6 Comp roller rockers when I installed alum. heads. Used the original push rods since they gave me the best pattern on the valve stem. Just put some white grease or dykem on the valve stem, set the rocker clearance and run the the valve through the entire cycle then loosen the rocker and look at the stem it will show the roller travel pattern, it should be centered on the stem or close to it as long as it doesnt run to the edge. If it does need diff. push rod length. I did change covers.

AboveTheLogic

I have an extra set of moroso valve covers that my crane roller rockers and stud girdles fit under. chrome, PM if you're interested

NewbVetteGuy

My thought was that I should buy roller rockers anyway to reduce temps, guide wear, friction, and because I heard that if I go with a high lift cam that roller rockers are particularly useful at limiting friction and keeping valve geometry where it should be. -So my thought was if I'm already buying 1.5 ratio RRs and 1.6 ratio RRs cost the same, why not get a little bit more lift for "free"? Is there something wrong with this line of thinking?

Wow; because I had no idea. Is spring wear a function of RPM and time or age? (Because if it's RPM*Time, then the car's been babied and has only 14.9k miles on it.)

I probably should just do that. I like the bling of chrome but the weight savings at the top of the engine of aluminum; and I don't know how to tell what dimensions will clear the RRs...


I didn't even know you could switch stud size... I thought that because my engine came with 3/8th, I was stuck with 3/8th forever...

I don't understand what you mean by "buy quality rocker arms for just a dollar more".... Are the Harland Sharp's not quality?
-I'm going to go click on your link now; I'm guessing that you're saying "why not buy hardened steel rocker arms for a dollar vs. aluminum ones", but I'll see either way in a minute...

[Edit] I was right about that and am feeling pretty good that my own research had listed the Comp Cams Ultra Pro Magnums as the current quality/longevity leader (I'm a newb but I can read and do research, at least.). I'm going to wait for a few more opinions on what constitutes quality. (From what I've seen, some of your engines may cost more than my whole car is worth and I'm guessing that your definition of "quality" is an exceptionally high bar that will make my wallet cry. --No offense; I'm just looking for more opinions because although my total budget for my car is roughly equivalent to what I think it's worth; it's a very "hard" budget that my wife will be holding me to and I need to make fully-informed and intelligent decisions to end up with the car that I want to end up with and not have any major regrets.)



I also want to add that my heads continue to show improved airflow all the way to a 0.700" lift (Profilers(minor increases on intake side but meaningful on the exhaust side, anway)) so I thought the extra lift would actually help as I don't think I've EVER seen a cam lobe go that high.

Adam

NewbVetteGuy

I haven't even figured out what a stud girdle does yet... so probably a bit early for me to buy one.


Adam

AboveTheLogic

You probably don't need to think about stud girdles, all I'm saying is I have an extra set of valve covers that will clear the roller rockers.

Now that I think about it someone drilled some small holes in them to mount some stuff so they might not even be worth anything to you.

NewbVetteGuy

So I will HAVE TO buy threaded studs with my aftermarket Profiler (technically ATK) heads? @#$@#% these costs keep adding up FAST...

Comp Ultra Pro Magnums have really high resale value; I've been able to find them for $250, but Harland Sharps I can find for $150 all over the place. It's hard for me to understand on what items it makes sense to spend the extra $$ and when I'm better off saving my pennies for something else, still.


Adam

c3_dk

Please explain?

Thx.

Ibanez540r

You'll have to ask ATK if they come with studs, but if not top of the line ARP studs are like $45 a set.

..as far as the rockers, you'll get mixed opinions I assume. Supposedly aluminum rockers make for a lighter valvetrain, however I've heard from some pretty high end engine builders that the weight of a rocker makes no difference. Aluminum will wear and fatique quicker then the chromoly steel Ultra Pro Magnums. From your prior threads, building a motor to last for the life of the car, it may be a benefit to you to go with the steel. They are rebuildable as well. I'm sure you'll also hear from guys that have ran aluminum for a very long time too though.

Ibanez540r

Roller "tipped" rockers are still a ball style fulcrum like a stock rocker arm, but with a wheel at the tip where it contacts the valve. however it is said the tip really isn't the point that makes the difference, reduces friction, or frees horsepower. It is the fulcrum.

A "full" roller rocker has both the wheeled tip and also "rolls" over a shaft at the fulcrum.